Lock isn't fully closing on the stud.  I'd try lubing it first and then, If that doesn't work then the stud maybe needs to be adjusted

To remove it if you have nice paint don't do this! Use a torch map gas works great or oxyacetylene works if you have it.  If you have map gas have a thing of pb or other fav lube and a wet towel ready. Load up that bolt with heat till red hot then quench it with water and then use the pb.  It will brake that bolt loose if done correctly.  If you have an oxyacetylene torch then probably use an 0 or 1 tip I would probably use a neutral flame and then use the same method. 

If you don't have a torch id use pb or ultralube. I don't care for wd40. It works good to and soak the bolts for a few days and then if you plan on keeping them use a rag and vise grips to remove them.  Or try to lol.   Then if you choose to keep the bolts after cleaning up threads with a wire brush.  You should be good.  I would try lubing the lock clasp.

That would work.  My strikers were a pain in the a**

also check to see of you're door around the lock's screws are not cracked mine was like this and had is not line up all the way would have it pop open or not latch at all.

Last edited by Xargon321 (2/06/2015 10:51 AM)

Push door release button when prying the inner fingers apart!
Howard

Be sure that what you think is OPEN is not actually LATCHED.

50vert wrote:

dwalker2 wrote:

50vert wrote:

If it was fine before the new handle, unlatch the operating rod and check that it stays closed.
If so it is not the striker bolt. Then it would be a case of the operating rod being partially activated at rest.
Easy check, and you get to save your paint.
 

 
Ok I pulled the rod while the teeth on the latch are closed and the lock clicks open. I'm confused. What does this indicate exactly?

Unclip the rod from the handle you replaced, make sure the latch is open, close the door.
Does the door pop open?
If not, with the door still closed, hold the operating rod close to where it needs to be to reconnect to the handle.
Does it line up with the holes without having to pull or push on the rod?
If you have to pull or push on the rod to make the connection, the rod is either too short or too long, and is doing the equivalent of holding the button in halfway while trying to close the door.
Outside handle or inside handle? Either one it will be easy to work out whether it is too long or too short

The outside door handle rod, when I remove it from the latch and go to close the doors they stay closed. I then lined up the rod (while door closed) and I have to lift on the rod slightly (about 1/2") and it pops backs in. When I go to try to close again the same thing happens. The door doesn't close all the way. Looks like I need to shorten the rod??
 

50vert wrote:

Adjust the bends in the rod to shorten or lengthen.

 
Got it! I straightened out the rod an extra 1/4" and all is good. Never would have thought this was the issue. Thanks very much guys! Very pleased this got worked out.