Here's another animated how to. scroll down to the pic of the gauge and click on the scenarios in green....http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

Steve it runs very well. You know you saw . but at a cost :D

I will go through those links yall gave . I can go to the gas station and get gas. I know I filled 10 gallons and have drove 50 miles exactly

Will tell me exactly where I am at!

This carb needs some work Steve.

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It sounds to me like there is a miss at higher rpm.
 
What is your cam p/n?
 
What is your compression?
 
What is your timing at an idle of less than 700 rpm with the distributor vacuum connected AND disconnected.
 
In addition to the things mentioned above, i would also lower the idle then plugging the vacuum lines one at a time including the pcv line [plug it where it connects to the carb or intake] and see if the idle lowers or smooths out any.
 
Leave these plugged then spray flammable carb cleaner with the long nozzle gently around the carb base and intake at the heads . . if the idle goes up you have a leak.
 
set the float levels so they are just below the inspection holes at idle.

set the fuel mix screws.
 

Last edited by barnett468 (2/13/2015 1:14 AM)

Hey guys

Steve: just #4 had a bent push rod. And I replaced that push rod and rocker. Have not touched any other. Would love to check that.. 

Compression check: HOW do i do that my coaches?  

Barnett: I dont know what cam is in there. what little you heard of the engine was near idle.. under 1000 .. In gear it idles at under 700.. Its not a big cam at all. May be Steve can comment on what he has seen on my engine  

Timing on under 700 with no timing advance hooked up and hooked up is the same .. .10 I think .. I can check again. But its set very well First time in a loong loooong time.. It does not ping at all at throttle punches under load or anything

Float levels are set right. I did check that on the primary.. I'lll check the secondary bowl too. 

Fuel mixture screws ar Idle are at 1.25 turns out from yesterday. 

I'll do the carb cleaner test soon  

Let me know what you think from the info I gave

Steve. may be I need to drive down there again, and we check the compression .. And I yes ofcourse! I drive at smiles per gallon . miiles per gallon matters when its this bad, lol usually not :D 

Last edited by Gaba (2/13/2015 8:23 AM)

Derek wrote:

MustangSteve wrote:

Derek wrote:

Your hooked up in the wrong spot! ..

 

Derek, he said he was hooked to manifold vacuum, exactly like your Holley video said to do.
Gaba, does it run well?  If you had not put the gauge on it, would you think it was running well?

I would think a 50 mile test of gas mileage, with the known inaccuracies of the Mustang gas gauges, would NOT be a good indicator of what mileage you are getting, especially if you are on the lower end of the gas gauge scale.   If you fill the tank full, you might get 200 miles on 1/4 tank.   Run a tankfull through. And again, if it is running well, put the gauge back in the toolbox.

I cannot remember... Did you adjust the valves on this engine?

Use this article. It has 15 scenarios where it shows what the gauge reads and tells you why.  CLick each of the 15 boxes.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm


 

The best place to take your readings is from the carb base plate. If you pull from further down stream , such as the manifold, your getting more turbulant air. And just ah sample of air /fuel from only ah couple runners. If you pull from the base, your reading ALL the air fuel mix. Or as they say "straight from the horese's mouth"

Rest assured. I checked from both ports . I had it on the carb base plate before this video. and then on the port you see its on in the video.. Same readings, same fluctuations

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I would probably use flammable brake cleaner instead of the carb cleaner I suggested . . both will work but the brake cleaner is more sensitive.
 
You can rent a compression gauge from tool rental shops and auto repair stores where I live.
 
Remove all spark plugs and mark what hole they came out of with black felt pen . . take photos of 4 at a time from close up and almost, but not quite head on, and post them.
 
Remove the coil to distributor cap wire
 
Install tester and have someone turn the engine over as you watch it.
 
The first pulse will be the largest gain . . it might read 80 or more the first revolution . . keep spinning the engine for around 5 seconds . . after this, there will be no more increase in compression.
 
Do all the holes the same way and view results . . if you find any that are around 20 lbs than the others, I would test them again and if they are still low, I would put around 3 squirts of heavy oil like straight 40 or 50 wt in them and test them again . . if the compression goes up, it means the rings are definitely leaking . . if it does not go up, the rings may still be leaking but it may also be a leaking valve.
 
Check valve adjustment on the ones that are low as was suggested.
 
1 1/4 turns out on the fuel mix screws is more than average in my experience . . turn one in until it stops while counting the turns and post results . . return it to its previous position and do the same with the other screw . . if one has no affect, you likely have a plugged idle circuit . . if neither one kills the engine, you might have a leaking power valve.
 
An engine that has no problems but will not idle below 700 rpm. Has a pretty big cam.
 
Post all results.
 

I thought I read some where, maybe in the compression gauge instructions, that you are suppoed to check compression with the engine warm??  Possibly at normal running temps???  OUCH that manifold is hot!!!

Gaba wrote:

Steve. may be I need to drive down there again, and we check the compression .. And I yes ofcourse! I drive at smiles per gallon . miiles per gallon matters when its this bad, lol usually not :D 

Sure, no problem... We can check the compression when you come down to get those brakes installed that I had shipped in for you.