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After I got the subframe connectors and new floor beams installed, I figured out the more rust I cleaned off the passenger front floor, the thinner it got. So, I ordered a new passenger front floor and will install it next week.
After I ordered that one, I got to thinking of how I was going to raise the tranny hump to clear the new TKO600. The new floor panel has a vertical part that goes up into the driveshaft tunnel 3-4 inches. Since that part of the existing floor is solid, I will be able to simply raise up the hump when I weld in the new floor, without having to add a separate filler piece. Since it would be very easy to do that if I also had a new driver side floor, I spent the $28 to get one of those as well. This will make it possible to raise the tranny hump with no seams showing. I am going to use a 67 crossmember floor support (the piece the tranny crossmember bolts to) because it is about 1/2 as thick as the 66 version at the top. If I extend the vertical sides of that part about 1", the modifications should be undetectable. I will get some pics once I cut the front floors out for the modifications.
I designed some new rear extensions for the subframe connectors that will continue them up the curve of the rear frame rails. That should really stiffen up the area behind the rear torque boxes.
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Is there any benefit in extending a plate from your rear subframe connector to the front leaf spring bolt? I had thought of extending my connectors back further and was talked out of it but now, the way I have left them, it would be pretty easy to take them back a little more. You start to realize there just isn't a lot of metal/structure back there.
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I will post some pics after I get that parts braced. Previous owner had used a bottle jack on all the frame rails, so I am really happy about covering up that mess with some serious steel.
Imagine a line going from the lowest rearmost point of the tinman subframe connectors, going up the curve of the rear frame rail until that line is tangent to the curve in the rail.
If you took a piece of 2x4 box tubing and cut it open on the 2" side, it will slip over and encapsulate the frame rail and fill in the big gap left by the tinman connectors.
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Nice to see you've resolved your tunnel problems. You will be glad you have new panels and getting rid of the rust.
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