The age old question begs for an answer...
What year is your car?
Brake pedal mods are year specific and a proper answer cannot be given specific to your case unless the information is known. Bearings work on any year.
When one speaks of a roller bearing clutch pedal shaft, there are two types. One is an actual roller bearing, and it relies on two things to function. 1. The pedal support original hole must be in good condition and 2. The clutch pedal pivot shaft must be in perfect condition. The rollers use the shaft as the inner bearing race. That is a bad idea because the shafts are not hardened like a bearing race, they are galvanized so the rollers wind up wallowing out a little trough to deter future movement when they wear in. Plus, nearly all pivot shafts have some wear or damage and the bearings just do not like rolling across that type of stuff.
The second type, which I use, is actually a sealed ballbearing that has its own inner race. A bearing retainer ring is welded to the side of the pedal support and the bearings fit into that ring and are removable. Since a new ring is welded in, it does not matter how bad the pedal support is worn out. The bearing has its own inner and outer hardened race, plus the balls are much larger diameter than the roller type, so you immediately get a smoother clutch pedal pivot, even if the shaft is severely worn. The bearings are sealed so never need greasing.
No firewall bracing is necessary unless you are converting a 65/66 to the MustangSteve power brake system. The "brace" which goes on the front of the pedal support, provides extra surface area to support the booster and allows all four booster studs to be supported by the pedal support. Without it, two studs are in the pedal support and the other two are going through the thin firewall material only. Without this modification, the booster will pivot about the two top studs as the firewall bends every time the pedal is depressed. Having the thicker steel plate installed keeps everything tied to the pedal support, taking the firewall thickness out of the equation. The pedal support is shortened by the thickness of the 19 gauge steel plate so that the pedal support bolts back in the same exact position it came out of.
The 67-70 pedal support was designed from the factory with a possible booster installation in mind, so that capability is built in with no mods necessary to install an original type booster. A "bolt on" booster kit should not be used on a 67-70 with a manual brake pedal as the ratio is wrong. A 3" longer brake pedal was utilized on power brake cars when factory equipped with power brakes. The pedal pin was relocated 3" lower to reduce the ratio from 6.25:1 to 3.0:1 for power pedal. (70 pedal had a little more leverage than the 67-69 PB pedal.) My power conversion for 65/66 changes the pedal ratio from 6.25:1 to 4.13:1. Not quite as much as the 67-69 pedal's power brake ratio, but a good compromise considering the space available under the dash.
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BillyC wrote:
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This was half way through, I welded up most of these holes and the seam across the top of the pic. The plate is 1/8" and the tubing is 3/4"X3/4"X16-gauge