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Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
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K you don't need to wonder what you need simple you have the four bolt type spindle if you have drums the two bolt type of you have disc. Therefore you need MSteve's brake braket kit if you want 17" wheels if you want smaller then Steves making the new kit to fit in 15" wheels at least he was going to do this. Or if you want 15" wheels you can use the stock Kelsey Hayes type Pistons with the bolt on caliper brackets and the misc hardware like hoses the proportioning valve. You mentioned going to power disc in that case disconnect the speedometer cable from the cluster remove retaining screws and pull out the cluster. Then remove the retaining screws for the column. Then disconnect the master cylinder from the support. After this is done inspect the pedal hanger for ware as they are known for this. If the centering bushings are bad then Steve has a awesome fix for it. Then you'll need to drill a hole in the proper spot then you need to purchase a pedal pin and other misc hardware which Steve sales. And the reinforcement for the hanger which he has. After all this then you'll need some 3/16" brake line as I would replace it all. You'll need a flare nut wrench double flare tool and flare bar reamer and other stuff needed to function as well as a file. Theres videos on YouTube on how to properly flare. If you have a single flare bar but not the double flare adaptor those can be had online. For line the copper Nickle plated lines bend awesome flare great and are supper easy to straighten out if it's a roll. I purchased my line from a company called evco house of hose.
For a disc drum master the proper one to use that fits great and looks era correct is the 67-70 style mustang power brake master which has a 1" bore.
If you want a disc disc set up the most used master is a 2000 mustang v6 master which has a 1 1/16" bore if I remember correctly. the fluid resivour MS likes to switch out I don't recall from what model of a car even though it's been talked about numerous amounts of times.
This is the basis of what you'll need hope this helps
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Hey Jo,
I think you should take Steve up on his offer in post #13 of this thread to get you setup with original sytle factory discs, you'll be able to get most of the parts that Steve doesn't set you up with (and only the parts you need) from the local auto store, or online if you prefer.
If you want to do the later model style brakes, which would also be fine but not necessary, Steve can get you set up there too with the brackets he makes and a list of parts you'd need to finish the job.
I can tell you that whichever way you pick you can trust Steve to do you right, get you just what you need and nothing you don't and you'll have brakes that work great. Either way I'd recommend getting the power booster from Steve, it's the best setup I found when I did all this to my car.
So really I think your biggest deciscion is whether you go with original factory discs or upgrade to the larger later model Ford brakes (Cobra or GT). With the original setup you'll be able to run any kind of wheel you want, with the later model stuff you'll have less wheel choices. Either setup will make the car stop great and either way involves more or less the same amount of work.
And we all want to see some pics . . .
/mc
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birdlady2u wrote:
SA69MACH yeah I definitely plan to put a booster on the master cylinder. Jo
Good plan. Have a look at this page from Mustang Steves site to learn about the minor but important differences of the 70 power brake pedal and boosters. The 70 booster and pedal is a matched pair.
I know from recent and current experience the 70 power brake pedal can be difficult to find. The ones on ebay say they fit a 70, but neglect to say it will fit only if you use a 69 booster. That setup is a good option for you, since you do not currently have a booster, so keep that in mind when you decide to buy the booster and pedal.
A good disc brake conversion kit will have all, and only, the parts you need.
Last edited by SA69Mach (3/21/2015 12:34 PM)
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I'd go with MS for all your go to for parts. The only other place that has the pedal and booster as a set is CSRP and I've hurd that Denis is an awesome man to have transactions with.
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You guys are awesome. Thanks for all your help. I can get discount auto parts thru carquest thru my son so that's great. I guess the next question is for steve then on what parts I need to set up a factory discs. I wanted to go with 11" but if its going to interfere with putting the 16" cragars on it I dont want to mess with that. I what type of a setup are you talking about with the master cylinder and booster? Anything OEM part wise I can get thru carquest so please elaborate. So I can decide which way to go. Thank you. Jo
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Personelly.........I like the 15" OR16" wheel on these classics. Gives you more sidewall on the tire and not so much the big rim/rubberband look'in tires.IMHO!!
6sally6
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birdlady2u wrote:
You guys are awesome. Thanks for all your help. I can get discount auto parts thru carquest thru my son so that's great. I guess the next question is for steve then on what parts I need to set up a factory discs. I wanted to go with 11" but if its going to interfere with putting the 16" cragars on it I dont want to mess with that. I what type of a setup are you talking about with the master cylinder and booster? Anything OEM part wise I can get thru carquest so please elaborate. So I can decide which way to go. Thank you. Jo
Factory discs will fit fine. They would even fit a 14" rim of you wanted. The brakes are the easy part.
You'll need a 9/16" deep socket cotter pin puller a 1 1/8" socket if I remember correctly deep 13/16" socket braker bar and 3/8" drive ratchet and some vise grips help. Pull drum off then use the vise grips on the head of bolts as they don't have a hex head on them. And then remove them. Then the drum backing plate should pop off after removing the brake hose. After this is done the stock disc calipers use a four bolt mounting bracket that bolts to the spindle and then the calipers bolt to them. Then the rest is pretty plug in play besides the line routing and the mounting of the proportioning valve. harbor freight has a brake flare tool. Make sure if you get it or even different brands as several had a problem the hole was drilled off set and so the slot for the line would be oval no Bueno.
Last edited by True74yamaha (3/22/2015 12:20 AM)
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Ok, ya'll, I finally got to do the disc brake conversion on my 70 mustang last week and wanted to post a follow-up on how it all actually worked out. We did a complete conversion on the front brakes from drum to disc using my original 70 drum spindles which all went together without any major issues. I used the 11.25" rotors for mustangs, Scarebird caliper brackets for 15" and larger wheels, recommended Scarebird calipers, hoses, etc., Mustang Steve's recommended brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve and pedal. All went together fine despite many "guys" trying to talk me into one of those kits that cost $1500 or more. I did it my way with a little girl ingenuity and some help from my friends for a lot less. If anyone wants pictures, just reply with how to upload them on this web site and I'll give it a shot. Jo
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Good for you getting it done! And thanks for a final report, many threads just stop without a conclusion.
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Thanks for the feedback on the final conversion. Glsd you got it done, doing it your way.
Now you can start making plans to drive to the next bash.
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