| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
I have been procrastinating long enough, since I am very happy with my 70's handling and steering as it is, but I have purchased a set of 70 spnidles which I will be installing on my 69 Mach1, so will be doing some rebuilding on that front end. The Shelby drop is one thing I will do to this car and if it improves the handling, I will also do it to the 70.
Two questions on the kit from Daze cars
Is the aluminum template suitable and tough enough to allow for drilling the pilot holes without ruining the template hole? I want to do at least 2 cars. Any enlarging in the template hole from guys who have used it?
Is the 17/32 drill tapered shaft to allow for a 1/2 inch drill chuck? I cant tell from the website pic.
I have read and read all that I can on the process, and it seems the 1/2 inch hole will actually work, without enlarging to 17/32"
Also, from all the feedback, it seems the step drills work very well?
Thanks in advance to any replies. I see one vendor with a stainless steel template and wonder if it is morre or less suitable. I like feedback from those who have done this more than once.
Offline
I can't speak to Daze' stuff but I can say that I used a card stock template (3x5 card) for my template. I still have it somewhere and could use it again if need be. I just center punched the locations of the new holes through the template, removed the card, drilled a small pilot hole at the punch mark, then enlarged it. I didn't have the 17/32 bit and used a 1/2" bit on mine.
I had to do just a bit of file work to get the arm to fit the holes properly. I think somewhere someone said something about the 17/32 hole allowing the upper control arm bolts a little more slop to move when you have to pry it way from the tower to install shims but don't know if that's someone talking through their hat or fact.
You could try emailing Daze directly - I'm pretty sure he'd be able to answer your questions easily and quickly. His email is: day@dazecars.com
Offline
Step drills work great for this. Daze's template does make the job easier, but not a requirement.
I just do the layout right there under the shock tower, center punch the holes and start with a good sharp 1/8" drill bit. I do have a steel template I made many years ago that is for the 65/66 cars. It bolts to the existing bolt holes and is available for use to FYI'ers for a small refundable deposit and $5.25 shipping cost. It uses 1/8" pilot holes to get the holes located. Then you remove the template and continue with larger drills, usually 1/4", 3/8", then 1/2". As long as the two bolts go through OK, it is fine. Not rocket science and the UCA is going to be moved around depending on shims required so it doesn't have to be perfect. Be sure the bolts can go through at a slight angle as well as straight on, because with varying amounts of shims front to rear, they sometimes wind up uneven. It needs to be able to slide in-out because once the spring is loaded on the UCA, it is very difficult to get it to move during an alignment.
The 67-70 is so simple to do because it is a pure rectangle.
I always used a 1/2" drill bit. Back in the day, before the internet, nobody told me a 1/2" drill would not get the job done so I just did it.
Offline
SA69Mach wrote:
I have been procrastinating long enough, since I am very happy with my 70's handling and steering as it is, but I have purchased a set of 70 spnidles which I will be installing on my 69 Mach1, so will be doing some rebuilding on that front end. The Shelby drop is one thing I will do to this car and if it improves the handling, I will also do it to the 70.
Two questions on the kit from Daze cars
Is the aluminum template suitable and tough enough to allow for drilling the pilot holes without ruining the template hole? I want to do at least 2 cars. Any enlarging in the template hole from guys who have used it?
Is the 17/32 drill tapered shaft to allow for a 1/2 inch drill chuck? I cant tell from the website pic.
I have read and read all that I can on the process, and it seems the 1/2 inch hole will actually work, without enlarging to 17/32"
Also, from all the feedback, it seems the step drills work very well?
Thanks in advance to any replies. I see one vendor with a stainless steel template and wonder if it is morre or less suitable. I like feedback from those who have done this more than once.
I made the the Shelby-Drop fixture that bolts up to the existing holes with sleeved 1/8" holes for my '69 coupe you are more than welcome to use. Worked great. IIRC it was the Daze Design.Its hanging in the shop collecting dust. Let me know and I will ship it to you USPS free of charge.
Offline
I think I might have an answer or two for you The best way to get max life out of the template is to use it to start the pilot holes but not drill them all the way through. Even if the template was steel, punching the holes all the way through several times will begin to change the shape of the hole. Once you have the holes started, remove the template and you have two nice divots started ready to finish drilling out. Keep in mind the steel Ford used for the shock tower is fairly hard. I agree with MS step drill bits are the way to go when drilling out the holes up to 1/2" and then you can finish with a file or 17/32" bit. The 17/32" bit I offer is Silver and Deming meaning that even though the bit size is greater than 1/2" the shank is only 1/2" IF you decide to use a paper or cardboard template DO NOT USE THE ONE FOUND ON LINE. It's not accurately drawn. (67 and up drawing is worse than the 60-66 drawing, but both are off) The online drawing will work as thousands of people have used it but the holes are slightly off and it usually takes a bit of persuasion with a file to get the UCA bolts to slide in. If you go paper draw it your self. If you have not seen it I have a web page that walks you through the entire process. Let me know if I can help further.
Offline
Chelby-Ann wrote:
SA69Mach wrote:
I have been procrastinating long enough, since I am very happy with my 70's handling and steering as it is, but I have purchased a set of 70 spnidles which I will be installing on my 69 Mach1, so will be doing some rebuilding on that front end. The Shelby drop is one thing I will do to this car and if it improves the handling, I will also do it to the 70.
Two questions on the kit from Daze cars
Is the aluminum template suitable and tough enough to allow for drilling the pilot holes without ruining the template hole? I want to do at least 2 cars. Any enlarging in the template hole from guys who have used it?
Is the 17/32 drill tapered shaft to allow for a 1/2 inch drill chuck? I cant tell from the website pic.
I have read and read all that I can on the process, and it seems the 1/2 inch hole will actually work, without enlarging to 17/32"
Also, from all the feedback, it seems the step drills work very well?
Thanks in advance to any replies. I see one vendor with a stainless steel template and wonder if it is morre or less suitable. I like feedback from those who have done this more than once.I made the the Shelby-Drop fixture that bolts up to the existing holes with sleeved 1/8" holes for my '69 coupe you are more than welcome to use. Worked great. IIRC it was the Daze Design.Its hanging in the shop collecting dust. Let me know and I will ship it to you USPS free of charge.
Wow, thank you Chelby-Ann...PM sent
Offline
Daze wrote:
I think I might have an answer or two for you
The best way to get max life out of the template is to use it to start the pilot holes but not drill them all the way through. Even if the template was steel, punching the holes all the way through several times will begin to change the shape of the hole. Once you have the holes started, remove the template and you have two nice divots started ready to finish drilling out. Keep in mind the steel Ford used for the shock tower is fairly hard. I agree with MS step drill bits are the way to go when drilling out the holes up to 1/2" and then you can finish with a file or 17/32" bit. The 17/32" bit I offer is Silver and Deming meaning that even though the bit size is greater than 1/2" the shank is only 1/2" IF you decide to use a paper or cardboard template DO NOT USE THE ONE FOUND ON LINE. It's not accurately drawn. (67 and up drawing is worse than the 60-66 drawing, but both are off) The online drawing will work as thousands of people have used it but the holes are slightly off and it usually takes a bit of persuasion with a file to get the UCA bolts to slide in. If you go paper draw it your self. If you have not seen it I have a web page that walks you through the entire process. Let me know if I can help further.
Thank you. I have spent a lot of time on your site and others, very informative, thank you.
I have put my order in for the drill and template late last night. Chelby Ann has offered me a steel template. I will compare that closely to your template to determine they are identical, and then go from there . Bought a few step drills last night too. Stupidly, my first purchase was a 1/4 - 7/8 inch size, a dumb choice. I have a 1/8 - 1/2 inch on the way. No chance of oversizing the hole with that one. I plan to finish with the 17/32 bit
Thank you for your reply, I apprreciate it.
Offline
.
you can just buy a thick wall steel or bronze bushings the same size as the hole in the plate then super glue them in to keep it them in place and keep them from rotating, then use a drill the size of the inside of the bushing that has a starter tip and put oil on it..
or hsammer a roll pin in the same size as the hole then get a roll pin that fits inside the other roll pin and hammer that in to sleeve it down so the dril you use will have a smaller starter tip.
starter tip drill.
Last edited by barnett468 (4/10/2015 2:38 PM)
Offline
SA69Mach wrote:
Chelby-Ann wrote:
SA69Mach wrote:
I have been procrastinating long enough, since I am very happy with my 70's handling and steering as it is, but I have purchased a set of 70 spnidles which I will be installing on my 69 Mach1, so will be doing some rebuilding on that front end. The Shelby drop is one thing I will do to this car and if it improves the handling, I will also do it to the 70.
Two questions on the kit from Daze cars
Is the aluminum template suitable and tough enough to allow for drilling the pilot holes without ruining the template hole? I want to do at least 2 cars. Any enlarging in the template hole from guys who have used it?
Is the 17/32 drill tapered shaft to allow for a 1/2 inch drill chuck? I cant tell from the website pic.
I have read and read all that I can on the process, and it seems the 1/2 inch hole will actually work, without enlarging to 17/32"
Also, from all the feedback, it seems the step drills work very well?
Thanks in advance to any replies. I see one vendor with a stainless steel template and wonder if it is morre or less suitable. I like feedback from those who have done this more than once.I made the the Shelby-Drop fixture that bolts up to the existing holes with sleeved 1/8" holes for my '69 coupe you are more than welcome to use. Worked great. IIRC it was the Daze Design.Its hanging in the shop collecting dust. Let me know and I will ship it to you USPS free of charge.
Wow, thank you Chelby-Ann...PM sent
USPS Priority Mail on Monday.
Worked great for me and was happy with the results.
Offline
.
yup, thats what i was meaning.
Offline
Smart ideas, thank you Chelby-Ann and Barnett469.
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |