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Okay Mustang Steve here's one for you ☺ and I'm not the only one with this issue. 289 four barrel points or electronic ignition; Early morning crank up, cranks and runs just fine. but say I go into Walmart come out, motor is warm, it takes several, several cranks before it will start. Or if I turn it off and right back on it cranks and runs fine. It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
Last edited by 13james13 (4/22/2015 12:36 PM)
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13james13 wrote:
Okay Mustang Steve here's one for you ☺ and I'm not the only one with this isue. 289 four barrel points or electronic ignition. Early morning crank up, cranks and runs just fine. but say I go into Walmart come out, motor is warm, it takes several, several cranks before it will start. Or if I turn it off and right back on it cranks and runs fine. It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
Sounds like the same problem I have. Its a combo of vapor lock and heat soak.
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Common issue for those of us with carbed engines......
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I have never had this problem on a carb that is sealed up with good gaskets and diaphragms, but have had it once when the accelerator pump diaphragm went bad.
Check your accelerator pump diaphragm. It is probably leaking just enough to lower the fuel level in the bowl. It evaporates on the hot engine so you don't see it get wet, but the fuel is going out of the bowl somehow.
I suppose you could have some kind of vapor lock where an air bubble gets trapped in the line, but if everything is set up correctly, this should never happen.
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so I check accelerator diaphragm on warm engine by pulling the breather off and pumping gas, see if it squirts?
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No, if you are able to drive the car, it obviously will still squirt gas. Usually it gets a crack in the diaphragm and gas is able to seep through the crack even though it still functions.
After you park the car, run your finger under the diaphragm housing after a few minutes and see if it is wet. HEck, don't waste your time. If it is hard to start after sitting, just replace the diaphragm and it will probably cure it unless you have some weird fuel lines that are touching the engine or something weird.
I do not know details on this, but I have heard of a fuel pump with a bad check valve siphoning gas from the carb when parked. Maybe someone knows more about that than I do.
But the bottom line is the carb is losing its supply of gas and you have to crank the engine to reprime it.
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Hmmmm MS, never had that problem with EFI.
Hehheh
Tubo
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Well Tubo, since you brought it up, how many times have you had a fail to start or continue to run with your EFI?
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Uh oh....
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thanks Mustang Steve!
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I had something similar when I first put our coupe on the road some years ago. It would cold start instantly but when hot, it would crank for some time before starting. Once running, it ran fine and didn't exhibit any weird symptoms.
I finally pulled the intake manifold and found that I had the manifold slightly off center and not squarely seated which was causing all sorts small yet apparent intake leaks...air, water, and oil. However, since it was EFI'd, I can only assume that that the PCM was keeping the AFR within reasonable values so it never acted lean.
I doubt a carbed engine would tollerate such a condition and still run reasonably well.
BB
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Our car did that when we first got it running, timing was too advanced. Corrected timing, problem solved.
Bob
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hey bullet Bob. Could you give me some help on those acronyms please?
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13james13 wrote:
hey bullet Bob. Could you give me some help on those acronyms please?
Sorry James.
EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection
PCM = Powertrain Control Module (the computer)
AFR = Air Fuel Ratio (rich or lean, it's fairly well fixed with a carb but is constantly adjusted with EFI)
BB
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13james13 wrote:
It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
So if he looses gas from the bowls, then how does it sitting overnight NOT require him to reprime the pump???
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Good thought M1R, also when cold the choke is closed. Hmmmm?
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Mach1_Ron wrote:
13james13 wrote:
It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
So if he looses gas from the bowls, then how does it sitting overnight NOT require him to reprime the pump???
OK, looks like I missed that about starting fine in the morning. Thanks, Ron. Back to that heat soak, vapor lock thing. Answer still holds true about good gaskets and having proper routing of the fuel line away from heat sources.
Next time it occurs, quit trying to start it. Remove air cleaner. Note the choke position. Move throttle linkage manually and check for squirter operation to see if it has fuel to squirt. Then we can go from there.
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Sounds like boiling fuel which accumulates in the intake, causing a too rich condition. I have had that happen on old Fords. Try pushing the gas pedal all the way down and hold it there, then crank the engine with the carb blades wide open to get some air in there. No pumping of the gas pedal, that makes it worse.
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13james13 wrote:
Okay Mustang Steve here's one for you ☺ and I'm not the only one with this issue. 289 four barrel points or electronic ignition; Early morning crank up, cranks and runs just fine. but say I go into Walmart come out, motor is warm, it takes several, several cranks before it will start. Or if I turn it off and right back on it cranks and runs fine. It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
Is this a stock 4 bbl intake or an aftermarket intake?
Do you have a spacer between the carb and the intake? If so, do you have a gasket between the spacer and the carb, and between the spacer and the intake?
What type of carb? stock or aftermarket?
What kind of choke?
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MustangSteve wrote:
Mach1_Ron wrote:
13james13 wrote:
It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
So if he looses gas from the bowls, then how does it sitting overnight NOT require him to reprime the pump???
OK, looks like I missed that about starting fine in the morning. Thanks, Ron. Back to that heat soak, vapor lock thing. Answer still holds true about good gaskets and having proper routing of the fuel line away from heat sources.
Next time it occurs, quit trying to start it. Remove air cleaner. Note the choke position. Move throttle linkage manually and check for squirter operation to see if it has fuel to squirt. Then we can go from there.
Alright I'll try that. Thank you! I'm running headers, so heat source to choke is capped. Carburetor has no heat other than manifold warming up. I'm running a 180 thermostat, north Florida. The butterfly is "open cold" about 3/8 inch and fully opens when warmed up. My metal fuel filter is about 2 inches from the header and EFI fuel line is about 3/4 inch away from the front end of valve cover, goes up from there to base of carb. I can easily raise the fuel line and filter up another inch. Just so everyone is aware I'm running basically the same setup as I did in 1980's, except .030 bore. I don't recall this issue back then. I appreciate all your help.☺ Thanks again!
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Your setup may not have changed but fuel has. It tends to boil more easily today so anything you can do to reduce fuel and fuel line temps will help - I have even had issues in Colorado between our winter and summer fuel mix. People with FI don't have the problem because they don't have fuel sitting in a bowl when the engine is shut down. Relying on manifold temperature to heat the choke may leave it partially closed when the car is shut down for a period of time and this could cause an overly rich conditon when you try to start it again. As suggested, pull the air cleaner cover before you try to start it when warm and see where the choke is. You can also try to lift the hood slightly when you shut it off to allow some cool air in to see if it gets better. This would help to determine if the problem is really heat soak. A carb spacer will help but also make sure your air cleaner does not trap heat.
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MarkinSC wrote:
13james13 wrote:
Okay Mustang Steve here's one for you ☺ and I'm not the only one with this issue. 289 four barrel points or electronic ignition; Early morning crank up, cranks and runs just fine. but say I go into Walmart come out, motor is warm, it takes several, several cranks before it will start. Or if I turn it off and right back on it cranks and runs fine. It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
Is this a stock 4 bbl intake or an aftermarket intake?
Do you have a spacer between the carb and the intake? If so, do you have a gasket between the spacer and the carb, and between the spacer and the intake?
What type of carb? stock or aftermarket?
What kind of choke?
Its a old school, Torquer 289 Elderbrock Highrise. No spacer, gaskets are good, very small leak at throttle body rod. 650, 4 bbl Autolite carburetor with mechanical choke. Thanks for your input!
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GPatrick wrote:
Your setup may not have changed but fuel has. It tends to boil more easily today so anything you can do to reduce fuel and fuel line temps will help - I have even had issues in Colorado between our winter and summer fuel mix. People with FI don't have the problem because they don't have fuel sitting in a bowl when the engine is shut down. Relying on manifold temperature to heat the choke may leave it partially closed when the car is shut down for a period of time and this could cause an overly rich conditon when you try to start it again. As suggested, pull the air cleaner cover before you try to start it when warm and see where the choke is. You can also try to lift the hood slightly when you shut it off to allow some cool air in to see if it gets better. This would help to determine if the problem is really heat soak. A carb spacer will help but also make sure your air cleaner does not trap heat.
The choke is wide open with a little bit of spring tension on it. my temperature gauge barely gets off the C, I'm running 180 degree thermostat as always. I have a spacer I could try that. Probably try moving gas lines first. Thanks Patrick !
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13james13 wrote:
MarkinSC wrote:
13james13 wrote:
Okay Mustang Steve here's one for you ☺ and I'm not the only one with this issue. 289 four barrel points or electronic ignition; Early morning crank up, cranks and runs just fine. but say I go into Walmart come out, motor is warm, it takes several, several cranks before it will start. Or if I turn it off and right back on it cranks and runs fine. It's that 30 minutes or so while the motor is still warm it won't bust right off. Any suggestions? Thanks. ☺
Is this a stock 4 bbl intake or an aftermarket intake?
Do you have a spacer between the carb and the intake? If so, do you have a gasket between the spacer and the carb, and between the spacer and the intake?
What type of carb? stock or aftermarket?
What kind of choke?
Its a old school, Torquer 289 Elderbrock Highrise. No spacer, gaskets are good, very small leak at throttle body rod. 650, 4 bbl Autolite carburetor with mechanical choke. Thanks for your input!
shall I assume that you had the same issue with both points and with electronic ignition?
I'm confused about the EFI fue lines you have with a carb setup?
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MarkinSC wrote:
13james13 wrote:
MarkinSC wrote:
Is this a stock 4 bbl intake or an aftermarket intake?
Do you have a spacer between the carb and the intake? If so, do you have a gasket between the spacer and the carb, and between the spacer and the intake?
What type of carb? stock or aftermarket?
What kind of choke?
Its a old school, Torquer 289 Edlebrock Highrise. No spacer, gaskets are good, very small leak at throttle body rod. 650, 4 bbl Autolite carburetor with mechanical choke. Thanks for your input!
shall I assume that you had the same issue with both points and with electronic ignition?
I'm confused about the EFI fue lines you have with a carb setup?
Yes, I'm using intermediately EFI fuel lines from tank to carb instead of regular rubber lines on carb system, due to ethanol erosion. Yes I tried electronic ignition, but makes no difference. Also considering check valve ball in carb?
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