I think you're talking about the pinch-weld flange.  Clean it nice as you can and put epoxy primer on it.  Fix the rotten corner with new metal and prime with epoxy primer (DP90 or equiv.).  The paint guy can squirt finish color on it and it will be as rust proofed as it's gonna get.  No drain holes...it would just drain into the cabin, as it has been doing.

NO RTV ON THE WINDOW SEALS.  Use only the non-hardening 3M Bedding compound #08509.  You may be able to order it at a parts emporium or Scott Drake has it...I just got some from Glen.

I have put a Mustang windshield and backlite in once, so I am a certified expert.  And after talking to MS and others I think I know how I will do it this time.   Put some goop in the window channel of the gasket and install the gasket on the glass.  Lay a bead of goop or smear a fairly heavy coat of the stuff on the outside surface of the pinch-weld.  Wrap a piece of cord around the pinch-weld groove of the gasket with a pretty good overlap at the bottom center of the window.  Place the assembled window/gasket in the body recess and with someone pressing firmly on the glass, pull the cord out more or less perpendicular to the window...this'll pull the gasket lip over the pinch-weld to the inside of the cabin.  When it's all seated you should have the gasket bedded to the glass with goop and also bedded to the body with goop and with luck it won't leak too bad.

You'll also have goop all over the inside of the car and on the headliner, dash pad, and lots of other places including in your hair and ears, between your toes, and in really bad places that you wouldn't think could get gooped while wearing pants.  This mess can be cleaned up with WD-40 or plain paint thinner, NOT LACQUER THINNER OR ACETONE!! 

I plan to try some masking tape on the more likely areas of goop mess, maybe that will help.

Good luck, Mike.

BB

 

Bullet Bob wrote:

When it's all seated you should have the gasket bedded to the glass with goop and also bedded to the body with goop and with luck it won't leak too bad.

You'll also have goop all over the inside of the car and on the headliner, dash pad, and lots of other places including in your hair and ears, between your toes, and in really bad places that you wouldn't think could get gooped while wearing pants.  This mess can be cleaned up with WD-40 or plain paint thinner, NOT LACQUER THINNER OR ACETONE!!

I just larfed as much as I can remember doin' in a whiles !!! Oh Goodness. Mayhaps one of them Haz-Mat suits would be a good idea when attempting this maneuver at home.

Last edited by McStang (4/27/2015 9:17 PM)

You guys are killing me.

Sal,

BB is correct about using only bedding compound to seal the window gasket to the body. Look at the You Tube videos by glass professionals and you will see that they also fill any gaps between the rubber gasket and the body to keep water out. Whoever installed the windshield in my '66 fastback had so much bedding compound that the back of the bright window trim was filled with compound. I have owned that car for 18 years, the windshield was installed before me and the bedding compound was still very sticky when I removed it. The pros use clear urethane glass sealant to seal the glass to the gasket to prevent leaks, outside only. Just insert nozzle between the glass and gasket and travel around the perimeter of the gasket. Let the urethane cure, then clean up drips with a razor blade. In my neck of the woods, all the parts stores carry both the bedding compound and the urethane sealer. No RTV!!!!!

Use epoxy primer on sheet metal. It is accepable to brush the epoxy primer on in small spaces like your window patches, you are going to sand it smooth anyway.

Last edited by Hornman (4/28/2015 10:58 AM)

No primer Is usually needed. And especially no paint!! They use a primer on the glass sometimes when using the urethane that they use when they install the glass.  That's all that's needed.  If you primer that area you'd be yelled at by a shop manager.  What can happen say in a newer car with air bags.  Say you do it on a car and you get in an accident the air bag can deploy and blow out the windshield and drastically make more damage occur. So now paint is needed in that area and usually no primer.  In fact if you have to do primer to the roof pillers etc mask the area off.  Also keep original trim clips they hold the trim down better. New ones can make it so the trim doesn't seat.  Now ask how I know that.    Lol

Last edited by True74yamaha (4/28/2015 1:52 PM)

SA69Mach wrote:

ng.  Using a cord does tend to pull this goop out as you work the cord, and that cant be helped.  I wrap the cord in tight, then tape the ends to the glass, then lay in the goop over the cord.  Messy, yes.  Godd watertight seal - Yes.
.

This is where you lost me......You wrap with the string first..THEN squirt the goop?! OR squirt the goop in the gasket and then wrap string around glass with tape holding it? Pull string straight out or at an angle or either?
Thanx
6sal6
 

6sally6 wrote:

SA69Mach wrote:

ng.  Using a cord does tend to pull this goop out as you work the cord, and that cant be helped.  I wrap the cord in tight, then tape the ends to the glass, then lay in the goop over the cord.  Messy, yes.  Godd watertight seal - Yes.
.

This is where you lost me......You wrap with the string first..THEN squirt the goop?! OR squirt the goop in the gasket and then wrap string around glass with tape holding it? Pull string straight out or at an angle or either?
Thanx
6sal6
 

Lay the gasket in the sun to get it really pliable
 
Put the gasket on the glass dry, get the gasket tight to the edge of the glass

Put a generous bead of the 3M bedding compound in the outer groove of the gasket

Using a long length of 1/4" clothsline, start at the top and push the rope into the groove down to the bedding compound.

Run the rope around until the rope overlaps in the middle of the bottom.

Place the windshield in position and have someone hold it in place, pushing firmly inward (don't break it! Palms only)

From the inside, pull the ends of the rope to pull the lips of the gasket to the inside edge of the metal window frame. If you don't succeed the first time, you are about average. Pull the glass and start over.

When the inner gasket lips are entirely inside, go outside and gently press the windshield inward to seat the bedding compound.

Pipe additional bedding compound into any cavities between the gasket and the window frame.

Pipe urethane window sealing compound between the gasket and the glass on the outside only. When the urethane has set, clean up any drips with a razor blade.

Reinstall the brite window molding. Good luck with that.

This is just me but I would get some rust neutralizer (or encapuslator - whatever it is) and brush it on everything (trying to work it into the pinch weld as well) before putting any paint on it.

Last edited by John Ha (4/29/2015 6:00 AM)

6sally6 wrote:

SA69Mach wrote:

I get a bit paranoid with the window install, and I put goop on everything.  I use bedding compound in the groove for the glass.  I stick the gsket onto the window.  I lay a bead in the bare pinch weld channel before bringing the window over.  I lay a bead in the gasket groove for the pinch weld, THEN lay in the cord, crossing over at the  bottom of the window, and tape the cord ends to the inside of the glass. (so they dont flop about, fall out or get between the window and the pinch weld.
THEN I add another bead over the cord.
You pull the cord out at 90 degree angle to the plane of the glass.  Imagine pulling it toward the center of the car.  No matter where the cord is peeling out, pull it out at 90 degrees, all around the perimeter of the gasket/glass.  Dont try to help it by following the  edge of the gasket,  Just pull it straight out, toward you.
The cord caries some of the goop into the lop and inner pinch weld.  It is the filthiest part of the task, hauling a goop covered cord out.  Wear gloves and old clothes you are willing to burn.
The use of urethane is something I have not done.  Seems a lot of experts are using urethane to finish, ad I do understand why.  They seal the outer lip of the gasket to the outer panel of the glass, to make it watertight as a path to the interior of the car, AND it hardens.  Not sure I will ever use it.  if you get a crack it all has to come out.  With bedding compound you can just squish some more in and clean up again.  And if you dont get a perfect seal, first time well, urethane hardens so it has to come out.  Scratch one gasket and start over.

Dont forget to put your trim clip in before filling the void between gasket and body with compound, prior to wet-testing and then fitting of your bright trim. It is a filthy job to do it with bedding compound filled in there.and the clips arre tricky to fit properly anyway.  I made a notchedl timber push stick to knock them into place.

Nothing is easy is it?  Where are you situated?  If close I 'll come give you a hand.

Charleston,SC
 

St Joseph, Michigan..   One of the most obvious things that is hardly ever mentioned when installing glass into old cars is that it takes more than one person.  You are going to need at least one other helper, strong enough and tall enough to hold the weight of the glass while you finangle it into the lower pinch weld to start the process.  Removing the trunk lid is almost mandatory. Makes it much easier for the whole process, including trim installation.
Lets see if anyone else a lot closer will stick their hand up..