| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Getting ready to spray the Falcon in epoxy primer, and have started looking into how to finish the underside, this will be a driver NO TRAILER. In the past I have used the roll on bed liner material in the wheel wells and an industrial grade chassis black on the underside. I have also used the roll on bed liner on the inside of the quarters ans inside doors.
What do you think about using commercial grade (Line X) on ALL of the underside?
Has anyone used the product Lizard skin?
I am mainly concerned on how to finish the underside-exterior, I want it sealed for moisture and be cleanable.
Heres the sub-frame connectors in and tied continously to the floors, I also added a couple supports out to the rockers and boxed them as well.
Offline
Well based on my past experiance with under coatings is that they don't really cover that well (there not paint) and if not painted first you will get little rust spots popping up. My plan is to prime, paint, truck bed liner, then under coating / sound deadener. The truck bed liners are much more durable then under coating alone , but don't offer any sound deadening. You'll hear every pebble on the road pinging of the bottom of the car. That's way I'll be going over it with the under coating.
Offline
I have a neighbor that is working on a Ranchero. He used epoxy primer and then a Napa product which is a chip/stone guard. It is relatively thin and not too bumpy and if you want to go this route, I'll get you the part number off the can. According to his body shop guy, it is really tough and is a good surface to then apply undercoating. In his case, he is using one of the lizard skin products on top of the chip guard - I would have to check back with him on the specific part number - but on the underside he is going with more of a pure undercoating. On the floor inside he is probably going to use the thermal barrier form of lizard skin. He already bought the special gun. I bought cans of the Napa chip/stone guard and am going to try it on my truck inner fenders and fenders after I expoxy primer them (if it ever stops raining).
There are a lot of opinions of undercoating - whether you need it at all, and everyone seems to really like the product they ended up choosing so I imagine you will get a lot of opinions.
And, after he shot the epoxy he then used a brush on seam sealer on all joints, etc. He then put the Napa product over that.
Offline
I am just going to prime paint with rustoleum then use that 3m undercoating on it.
Offline
Since you have the underside clean and accessable, shoot a couple of coats of epoxy primer to seal the metal on the underside. Then you can put on 3M undercoat or Lizardskin Sound Insulator. I am not a fan of using bed liner on the underbody because of how hard it is to remove should you need to make a repair (plus that bed liner is heavy).
Last edited by Hornman (5/21/2015 11:44 AM)
Offline
My first piece of advice is to try to have any welding or anything else that will cause you to remove the bottom finish done first. I wanted a painted finish, rather than an undercoating or lizard skin coating, so I looked for the toughest paint I could find. I settled on Master Series Silver Primer - what they refere to as "permanent rust sealer" (a one part urethane w/ aluminum particles) topcoated with their AG 111 satin (a two part urethane). You can see a pic of my underside in my recent post on adapting my 65's parking brake to MS's rear brake kit. Here's a link to the Master Series products:
These are very tough, solvent-resistant, and UV-resistant coatings. A benefit to using the AG-111 is that if you do have to grind it later, you can easily recover it w/ no special equipment, or if its just a small area just paint over it w/ another paint of the same color.
Offline
Thanks for all the info and suggestions, I will get everything covered with epoxy primer, and seam seal everything and then figure out if I should just paint or what. I like using just a paint, like chassis black because its so easy to touch up. I think I will use a very heavy undercoat or bedliner in th e rear wheel wells and on the firewall just behind the front tires in the front fender well. Just not sure about the under body. I have a friend that has used the Lizard Skin over all the floor boards and under the roo on the inside and is very happy with the result.
Offline
I undercoated everything on my fastback. Now I wish I had not. A good quality paint is probably better and alot easier to clean. Unlike bedliner, I can at least get this stuff off if I ever need to. There will always be ONE MORE THING you need to work on and that bedlinder is going to make it tough. But, what the heck, I suppose it can be ground off if needed.
Another thing I have learned, flat black under a car makes it very difficult to see anything when you are working on the car. My 69 coupe had red primer underneath and you could actually see what you were doing. Like NASCAR cars, I think a grey or silver color is best between the frame rails where it doesn't show to the world, but makes visibility alot better. When installing my door glass in the 66, I sprayed the interior of the doors with chrome paint. Man it makes a huge difference in being able to see what you are doing! The work light reflects all through the door.
Offline
I have a buddy that has a very nice 40 Ford coupe (deep red) and a 53 Ford F100 (black), both set fairly low but reasonable, and he painted the bottom light grey on both for the very reason of being able to see things and he swears by it, maybe both of you are on to something.
Offline
I agree that a light color would be better. I used black rustoleum and it is hard to see. Whatever color you choose, you can mix in some microspheres ....
here's an oldie but goodie discussion on the topic.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |