Lots of ways to do it. I used a T5 bell housing with a home made fulcrum adapter and factory z bar. Driveshaft lengths seems to vary, recommend installing transmission and measuring for your application. Factory crossmember can me modified to work if you can weld, if not buy one. Really depends on your budget and how you want to do the swap. If you plan on running big power and big radials, I'd recommend a different trans, or go with a gforce or Astro T5. I'm determined to keep my T5 in my street/strip 66, but it hasn't been cheap; and I'm pretty sure I could remove and rebuild the trans blind folded. Been out of the car, longer than its been in it. I'm sure you'll get plenty of help here on different ways to do the swap, best of luck.

For the trans, be sure to get a WC T5, and ideally one from a V8 Fox body car.  You can also buy a Z-spec one from Ford Racing, which does have a closer gear spread than the production trans, but you can also buy the gear kit to do that for less than $500 and if you are already planning a rebuild on a used trans you'll probably be bucks ahead to just do that.

As far as simplicity goes use a stock T5 V8 bellhousing from a Fox body car.  Use the engine plate that goes with it.  Use a Fox body roller pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch fork (if you go with a cable clutch, other systems may need different parts). 

You could modify or even build a crossmember.  That's a case of what's your time worth vs. your money.  I opted to just buy one.  Be sure to use a T5 Fox body trans mount.

There is a plug and play harness available to bypas the neutral safety switch and connect the backup light wiring to the switch in the trans.  Again, you could modify your existing stuff or build your own if you want.  Time vs. money, again.

Cable clutch operation is what a lot of people do.  I used the Mustang Steve kit, and though instalation took a little while, and there was a decent amount of trial fitting to get it right, the end result is worth it.  Clutch actuation is just like that of a Fox body car.  The system is simple and robust.  The cable is a stock piece should it ever need replacement, and adjustment is on the firewall. 

I'm told the factory C4 speedo cable works fine, just remember to get the right gear if you're also chnaging rear end ratio and/or tire size. 

There is an adapter yoke that will allow you to use your stock driveshaft. 

Going from auto to stick you'll need a clutch pedal, and a brake pedal for a stick application.  The pedal suport is basically going to have to come out anyway, so upgrading to the Mustang Steve roller clutch bearing kit is well worth it.  Speaking of which, you don't  need a return spring, bracket, etc. with a cable clutch; its all built into the system so don't bother with those parts.  Also, the clutch pedal stop kit from Mustang Steve is a nice addition. 

You'll need a shifter, and there are a lot of options.  Personally I'd get a Pro 5.0 shifter (best made IMO) and use a lever designed for a T5 retrofit.  The T5 lacks positive shift stops, and has aluminum shift forks, so if you bang gears breaking a fork is a real possibility.  The Pro 5.0 has stops built in to prevent that.  Most say a small amount of trimming in the shifter opening is required.  A factory boot and bezel should work fine though. 

What rear end ratio do you have now?   I can tell you when I had a 2.80 ratio, 5th gear was simply unusable.

The T5Z goes for about $1,500 new.    

I have no idea but I am guessing what it was from the factory and how much would you think is a fair deal for t5z from a private

Here is how I did my 66 coupe 289. A rebuilt t5 and bell housing from a 92 mustang v8. A block plate,backup switch and fastener kit (highly recommended) from Rosehill Performance. Flywheel and pressure plate bolt kit, flywheel (28oz 157. tooth) stock clutch set and cross member from Modern Driveline. Cable clutch kit, pedal bearing kit from Mustang Steve.
My rear end is a 3:55 and was shimmed to correct pinion angle. The drive shaft was shortened by a local shop.

Something in the 3.55-3.73 range woukld be perfect for the T5 swap as far as rear gear goes.

I initially purchased a Modern Driveline cable kit, but chose not to use it once I saw how it was put together and I wasn't super impressed with the quality.  The choice is up to you, but I did not like the way the backet fit the pedal (hit some stuff and would have required modification), nor the multi part cleavis deal for securing the cable to the pedal.  Whne I saw the Mustagn Steve kit I knew I'd found something better.

Oh, I almost forgot the clutch and flywheel you'll need, duh!  I chose the King Cobra clutch  from Ford Racing, great value for a stock to mildly modified engine.  Flywheel should be 157 tooth, 28oz. imbalance.  You can get SFI ones now for like $150, crazy. 

He's not talking about inside the rear end.  He's talking about the static pinion angle as the entire rear sits in the chassis.  This is a chassis setup thing, not a rear gear thing.  the idea is that under hard acceleration the leaf springs will wind up, causing the pinion to rise, and potentially putting the rear u-joint in a bind condition leading to noise, u-joint failure, and bad bite of the rear tires on the pavement.  By shimming the rear housing with angled shims under the leaf spring pads you can add some static downward angle (negative angle) so that under load the pinion ends up straight instead of pointing to the sky.  Its the same concept as adding static negatice camber to your front tires so the tire contact patch is greater under cornering. 

Most Fox cars came with a 2.73 rear.  There were some that had optional 3.08 and 3.27 ratios, pretty sure the 3.27s were auto only though.

The Fox cars could get away with such low gears because the first gear was tall (3.35 vs. 2.95 in the Z-spec).  At this point they were actively designing cars with CAFE standards in mind, so being able to drop RPM at cruise speeds and save gas was a concern.  They tailored the 1-3 ratios to this design so you still got good acceleration.  The issue they found was that when the typical hot rodder added a better rear gear ratio, like a 3.73 or 4.10, 1st gear became too short.  The Z-spec was designed with a lower first gear to alleviate this issue.  This also allowed them to get the ratio spread tighter, and improved strength in part from the material chnage, but also because a smaller gear exerts less leverage and is therefore less likely to fail.  Don't get me worng, these upgrades in strength are pretty marginal. 

So if 5th unuseable with a 2.73ish rear gear?  No, but you're going to lug the engine a lot at cruise RPM.  The combo is certainly better with a 3.55-3.73 rear gear.  You're going to have to downshift to pass, and maybe on upgrades.  Don't beat the engine to death trying to pull 5th at low RPMs, you'll hammer the bearings to death.

I also had a other question I hoping that could be answered so I want to take off the front drum breaks and put disk break any car I can take them off and use in my car I would also like to do the rear but my priority right now is the front but I would also want to know how to do the rear any input will help