Thanks for the reply. I understand the dangers of continuing to use my original master cylinder, but it seems it's only a recommendation to upgrade it, not a must in order to complete the swap. Is this correct? Secondly, do I use my original distribution block with a new proportioning valve, or does the dist. block need to be upgraded as well?

I think I will just wait to buy all the needed parts before I begin, do it right the first time as they say. I had planned on buying the 67 disc/drum master and SBCC's dist/prop valve combo. This should be all I need to "safely" install the brakes. Correct?
Thanks again, for the help.

Ditto the piston inside the oem master is different from that of a disc drum master.  Drum drum use the same type of piston.  Disc drum use a different type all together. The disc use less fluid then drums use also. If you get a new proportioning valve you won't need the old block unless it's type that only sits in the rear brake line then you will need a block other wise you'd have no way to distribute fluid to all four corners of the car.  Also if it was me I would change over to power disc might as well sense your re plumbing anyways. All you need is the support bracket plate steves pin kit and a booster.

Chris, each member here draw from personal experience and how they look at their own car. On my own 65 I'm using small disc setup on front, drum on rear and single M/C and booster. Brakes work superb! One day will change M/C to duel bowl however, for the added safety! In the era when I grew up and much of my adult life single M/Cs were the norm, never lost my brakes? So, yes duel bowl has added safety, no question but to answer your question it works OK for me. Guys, not intending to step on toes.
Howard  

hmartin025 wrote:

Chris, each member here draw from personal experience and how they look at their own car. On my own 65 I'm using small disc setup on front, drum on rear and single M/C and booster. Brakes work superb! One day will change M/C to duel bowl however, for the added safety! In the era when I grew up and much of my adult life single M/Cs were the norm, never lost my brakes? So, yes duel bowl has added safety, no question but to answer your question it works OK for me. Guys, not intending to step on toes.
Howard  

Howard,
I know others that have run the original MC without issues as well. Not with Steve's setup though, so I guess it would be hard to say if it will work properly or not unless someone has tried it. I figure for an extra ~$200 in parts for a MC and prop/dist. block, I might as well do it now while everything is apart. My main goal is to buy the correct parts the first time, and it seems there are a lot of ways to do this swap. Sounds like the 67 MC is the way to go for my application though. Appreciate your input.

Number of bowls has nothing to do with having to change the master cylinder. If your single pot mc was for a drum system, it has a residual pressure valve in it that will cause the rear discs to drag. You need a disc/disc master cylinder.

I'm sure thats what he meant to say. Stick with the 67-70 disc drum manual master cylinder and the matching proportioning valve and you'll be great

blueoval50 wrote:

True74yamaha wrote:

I'm sure thats what he meant to say. Stick with the 67-70 disc drum manual master cylinder and the matching proportioning valve and you'll be great

I'm guessing you're right. Anyone know about powder coating the brackets?

Well I am not sure of the thikness of powder coating Vs. rattle can, but I put a couple coats of VHT Epoxy on my brackets/spindle before re mounting and there was no issue at all with fitment.

 

I had mine powdercoated, but I still havent got it back on the road yet. In the middle of overhauling front suspension and doing shelby drop.

You just have to install the pedal push Rod. You also would have to do this when using a 2000 v6 mustang master cylinder on a manual disc disc set up.

Correct you'll want to use your push rod that comes out of your master cylinder and connects to your brake pedal pin. Some different models years etc have different length push Rods if you don't use the one that your cars needs your pedal will probably sag and the brake lights will be on. That or ice hurd that a raybestos mc36440 is a perfect swap for you and it should contain the correct length push rod for your swap. Here is a link to rockauto.com for that master cylinder http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php?catalog=27&partnum=MC36440&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BRAYBESTOS%2BMC36440&blanktemplate=true

Last edited by True74yamaha (6/17/2015 8:56 PM)

blueoval50 wrote:

Thanks for the link, that's a familiar part number. 73 maverick? It's crazy how many different opinions I can get on this master cylinder question. Started with 67 mustang, then cougar, now maverick. I'm sure they will all work, and all the input is appreciated. Seems the general consensus is maverick on the web. I'll go that route. Again, thank you.

I would recommend double checking with MS, he is after all the resident Guru on the subject!
 

Maverick non power disc drum 74 MC has 15/16" bore and works well for manual brake applications.  It also has the positive retention clip in it to hold the pushrod in place.

The 67-73 Mustang power disc/drum has 1" bore and is my preference.  You get a shorter pedal stroke and only slightly more pedal pressure required.  It does NOT have the clip to retain the pushrod.  In reality, THAT is the only difference between a power brake mc (made for a booster so does not require pushrod clip) and a manual brake master cylinder.

You should base your decision on the bore size required, not whether it is for power or manual.  Most, but not all, manual brake pedals have a lever arm at the top to keep the pushrod from pulling out of the master cylinder.  You should be sure yours has one THAT WORKS whether you have the rod clipped in place or not.  IF you do not like the clip not being positively retained in the master cylinder, just put a good blob of RTV in the back of the master cylinder, apply the brakes real hard, then let it cure overnight.  It will never come out on its own, but you can still pull it out if needed with some extra force.