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ok, need a couple ideas here if anyone has any experience with the holley 4160 with the non adjustable float carbs like this one:
i can crank the car up, no problem. let it sit & run until it warms up & the choke kicks off, no problem. i can rev it up & it drops back to idle,again, no problem. i can drive the car around the block & it runs great, but when i stop, it wont idle , stumbles & quits. i pulled the shaker & air cleaner assy & gas is flooding out of the secondaries, mainly the left (drivers side) & continues for a min after the car is off. this is my first "newfangled" holley without the adjustable needle & seat & no sight plug. any ideas?
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Sounds like you are boiling fuel. What kind of spacer/insulator are you running? If you have it right on the manifold you are probably getting too much heat into it with today's modern gas. A phenolic spacer and/or a heat deflector may be required. The amount of ethanol in your fuel may contribute - I had a car that did this primarily on winter fuel. Fuel pressure is also critical to ensure that you are not blowing past the needle and seat. Not sure what the new non-adjustable models need or can tolerate. I had to go to off-highway needles and seats to calm mine down and that doesn't sound like an option with the new model. Your air cleaner may also be an issue if it traps hot air around the carb. This all assumes that you don't have a faulty needle and seat. If you got some dirt or teflon tape in there, it may not seal and it will pump fuel.
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From their ad.
"The floats have been factory-set for optimum fuel levels at 3 to 6 psi of fuel pressure and should never need adjustment. If you're running over 6 psi of fuel, a fuel regulator is required. "
First thing eye would check.
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i'm running the stock pump & carb has been fine with that for a couple years. just started this in the last few weeks. fuel lines are all new from tank to carb & filter is clean.
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steve s. wrote:
i'm running the stock pump & carb has been fine with that for a couple years. just started this in the last few weeks. fuel lines are all new from tank to carb & filter is clean.
Check the needle valve first and it wouldn't hurt to throw a complete rebuild kit in it. The ethanol in the gas can really attack any rubber parts.
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pulled the rear bowl & metering plate today. didnt see anything out of the norm in there. pulled the float, no pinholes or gas inside. pulled the needle out & cleaned it along with the fuel passages.
couldnt put it back together & test drive today. the blue "non stick" gasket didnt do as advertised. it stuck & tore all to hell. have a new one coming in the morning....
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