Do you have a link for the crank?

Wonder how much bigger you can make the crank by "off-set grinding" it?
6s6

So why the 302 pistons with the 393 stroker?

HAVEaSigAR wrote:

Steve69 wrote:

So why the 302 pistons with the 393 stroker?

 
And do you have to bore the block? What other machine work is necessary for this mod?

The 302 pistons have a shorter pin height, which puts the top of the piston near deck height. This is important because of the longer stroke. If you used the 351 pistons they would be sticking out of the cylinder by a bunch. The heads and valves wouldn't like that

Anytime you change pistons in a street car it's pretty darn wise to make sure the cylinders are bored/honed to fit the pistons. Especially if you're going to the expense of stroking it. Money well spent.

Thanks for explaining!

I think I'm going to go this route. My 351w is a non-roller, so I'm thinking I should get a roller block and the 3.850 crank and take them to the engine builder and have him get it all squared away. Anyone want to put together a parts list for what all I will need? Also, I have 2 sets of 351w heads. Should I have a set of these reworked? Or just go ahead and buy AFRs?

Good call on the balancing Pablo.

EITHER head is going to make so much torque with that engine that traction will become an issue.
IF it were me.....I'd get the 205's.......run a big-a$$ roller cam....and about a 750 cfm Edelbrock carb!!!(maybe even look into a tunnel ram set-up.What I understand, with right parts and good tune they can make nice(relatively speaking) street pieces)
Excess is a great thing when building a "hot-rod".
IF you were going for gas mileage and doscile street manners you would buy an Altima....

One thing to consider is that the rod bolt head to cam issue is a nonissue with aftermarket rods using capscrews.  For the cost of rehabing a set of rods you are probably only looking at $150 more for a set of aftermarket rods.  To me that's money well spent. 

I would absolutely balance any rotating assembly, even if was all stock I'd do it.  That's $150 very well spent to make sure there are no issues.  Make sure to give then your balancer and flywheel/flexplate when they do it.  If you  need mallory metal it will add a bit to the cost, especially if you want it internally balanced.  I prefer an internal balance and will spend the extra money for that. 

I'd talk to one of the major cam companies and get a cam custom ground for the engine, again its only about $100 over an out of the book cam and well worth the money.  I would discuss everything with them and buy parts accordingly (heads, intake, etc.).  This will ensure a good combination.  The best engines are balanced combinations.  That's how they make the most power with the best manners; everything must work together. 

Thanks, MachTJ.  HaveasigAR, I have the parts list for the build I did on an XL spread sheet.  I am not very computer savvy, so don't know how to get that spread sheet to you.  I could attach it to an e-mail if I had your address.  I guess you could PM that to me?
The combination I used, except the heads, was recommendations from FRPP tech guys.  It is a roller block using roller hydraulic lifters. 
I will tell ya this, CHEAP it wasn't.  Parts were $3,300.00 not counting donor block and carb.  Machining/balancing was another thousand $.  If you have a shop build it, that will add more $$.
Enjoy

Pistons should be fitted to the bore, so I would at the very least have the machine shop check the PTW clearance.  We're talking about clearance measured in thousandths of an inch, so a little bit off cna have big consequences.