Power to the horns comes from the headlight switch, so it could be protected by the the HLS circuit breaker.

Horn issues usually reside in the rimblow switch. It's been awhile (30+ years) but I believe if you pull your center pad off you can remove the rimblow switch wires and test it for continuity.

Last edited by Rsmach1 (10/20/2015 8:56 PM)

WoW Excellent Everyone, thank you!  Im Baffled!!!!  I took off the headlight switch, tried a spare, nothing....Hadlights and interior lights are working perfectly.....No power going to the harness under the switch. 

I went to honk and on the momment it went to honk, it crapped out and hasnt come back since....

On my 65 I mounted horn relay from older Ford PU on inner fender and wired up using one of the spring loaded pins under steering wheel! Wow, horn MUCH louder!!! And dont have to worry bout short under steering wheel. Had to make horn button go to ground to trip horn relay
Howard

It's looking more and more like there is a problem with the light switch and/or the wiring coming from the switch. Sounds like it's time to pull the gauge cluster so you can visually and physically inspect the wiring connecter coming out of the switch. Look for burned wires, broken insulation. Do the wiggle test on all the wires to see if the operation of anything changes with the wiggle. Use an insulated probe (wooden stick) so you don't get shocked. Hope real hard the problem is in the switch. The switch is a lot easier to replace than the connector on the switch.

         If the lights are dimming when pushing on the horn, your horn switch or wires may be going to ground. May just be a partial ground not enough to trip the circuit breaker in the light switch? You could try holding on the horn for a few seconds and see if the circuit breaker trips and lights go all the way out. Don't hold too long, you don't want to let the smoke out of the wires.
     Now my 69 wiring diagram shows a yellow wire going from the head light switch to the steering wheel connector then to the horn button. I don't think this is a problem or your lights would be dim all the time. The problem sounds to be in the horn switch its self, or the wire leading from the switch to the horn. Problem is the wiring diagram shows no horn. It does show, if I remember correctly, a 482 wire leaving the horn switch. (Not at home right now) The 68 wiring diagram shows the 482 as a blue/yellow wire, so we'll go with that.
      To do quick easy test on the wire from the switch to the horn with an ohm meter, unplug the wire at horn. Do not push on the horn while measuring ohms at this time. Measure resistance from the wire to ground. The reading should be infinite. If you’re reading a few hundred ohms or less to ground, you have a short to ground somewhere. You can also take a voltage reading here, have someone depress the horn button should have 12 volts. If no short to ground is found you can check the horn switch. Remove positive, disconnect the yellow wire from the light switch or maybe remove the positive battery terminal. Have someone push the horn button and measure ohms at the horn wire as done earlier.
     If a low ohm reading is found on the horn wire at the horn, the same test can be done at the fire wall connector or at the connector at the steering column to help locate where the short is.