I have the cable clutch on my 95 Mustang and on my 65 Mustang which has the MS pedal assy. Both work well with the BBK long tubes. I had to shorten the headers a bit to get them off of the ground on the 65.Both headers are for the SN95 so they are a bit low hanging for the 65.  I also have removed the shock towers and converted to the MII type front suspension. BUT, I have routed several clutch cables around headers and other things. On the 95, I have a piece of tubing over the cable where it passes against the header tubes with some header wrap around the cable inside the tube.
I have no problems now with heat on the cable. The clutch I have in the 95 is a race clutch and very stout, so I have broken a couple of the plastic ends on the cables. I found a cable at Summit that has metal ends and that one has not had an issue. 

How much less pedal effort is required for a hydraulic clutch set-up compared to a cable clutch? Also, are there any benefits to choosing a slave cylinder over a hydraulic throwout bearing?

Drew

The only thing I do not like about my 2015 GT 5.0 six speed is the feel of the clutch.  Or I should say, the lack of feel of the clutch.  It is terrible.  The cable on my 66 works so much better for clutch feel.

DC wrote:

I agree, MS the feel is much better and I have had to pull transmissions and engines to fix those darn hydraulic throw-out bearings too many times. My daughter can change a clutch cable in less than 10 minutes.

GREAT picture!

MustangSteve wrote:

DC wrote:

I agree, MS the feel is much better and I have had to pull transmissions and engines to fix those darn hydraulic throw-out bearings too many times. My daughter can change a clutch cable in less than 10 minutes.

GREAT picture!

Great Daughter!
 

To convert a stock toploader type bellousing to cable actuation, you must weld in a plate to thread a ballstud into.

You will need to do a mockup in order to locate the stud position and adjust its height.  Take the bellhousing and bolt it to the transmission. Then slide the Fox 5.0 throwout bearing onto the transmission bearing retainer, with the release lever correctly clipped to the bearing. With the long end of the lever centered in the bellhousing window, it will then be perfectly obvious where the ballstud needs to be.  This does not have to be perfect since there is some wiggle room where the bearing fits on the lever arm. Be sure the lever is centered vertically in the bellhousing window.

Once you have the ballstud mounted, its height must be adjusted. To do that, you will need another mockup. This time, install the block plate on the engine and the flywheel and clutch on the flywheel. Then install the bellhousing on the engine with the lever arm and bearing in place.  Adjust the ballstud height so the release lever is within 1/8" of the rear of the bellhousing window while the throwout bearing is in contact with the pressure plate fingers.

That is all there is to it.