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1966 351W with Hedman shorty headers
Anybody ever use Stage 8 locking fasteners on their headers? Do they fit and are they easy to install and remove?
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Tried it on my 351W one time about 15 years ago. Only about two bolts of the 16 would work due to distance being too close to the tubes. I gave the whole set to a Chebby guy I know and he is still using them to this day.
A good stainless steel bolt, long enough to do the job, with a lock washer works great. Having a crossover tube in the exhaust system helps stabilize the exhaust system so the headers do not try to rock around as the exhaust pipes move about. With a good crossover and a good set of gaskets, they will not loosen up. Usually a retorque is required after driven a few miles, but that is it.
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It's real tight in there so I was wondering how easy it would be to install the clip. I sent my headers out to get NitroPlate coated and don't want to scratch them up having to retighten the bolts all the time. I think I will look into stainless hex head bolts and lock washers.
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I used stainless ARP with 3/8" hex head on the 351W. They never came loose on me. If you have aluminum heads, be sure to apply anti-seize to the bolt threads. The 3/8" hex allows you to use a smaller wrench so you don't mess up the coating. Just be careful, as stainless is alot softer than a steel bolt.
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I use stainless steel socket head cap screws with no lock washers. The reduced head size and size of the allen key makes tight access no issue.
Since day one when I instatalled the "Tri-Y" headers on my 331, I have yet to find any of them come loose.
Why you ask, well I have to say because of the "Prothane" engine mounts. There is very little movement on these mounts and my guess is that with the lack of twisting between engine and the headers on the engine they don't loosen up.
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Would studs work better?
6sally6
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I don't think the studs would work because the nut diameter would be too big. There is not much space between the header tube and the bolt hole. Most header bolt heads are just slightly larger than the diameter of the thread area.
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I got some Spectre header bolts from Summit that have the 3/8 reduced hex and the socket head for an allen wrench and they are great. You can use your ball end allens to get them in and then tighten with a box end. I don't know if they have stainless though, mine are plated and have held up well on the race car.
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I had problems back in the day with the Mr. G headers bolts and tri-y headers, as it was such a tight fit and hard to get wrench on there. Regular gaskets would get loose. So, found an old school trick to double gaskets, putting the metal felpro type against head and the cheap paper one or Mr. G ones against header. Never had a problem. Now, they have the dead soft aluminum and copper ones and the like from earls, Percy's, etc., that don't need retorqed or blow out. But solve the bolt issue, I found shallow socket (Allen) head. 3/8x1" hardened heat treated bolts in the mcmaster Carr catalog and bought a box. Used them with reused thin Mr.g header washers.....work like a champ for many years. I will have to see if they have SS ones for when I put the NBA headers on. Hope this helps.
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I use Stage 8 on the 351W in the Mach1 and they work Great...a little work at first, but then no issues.
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