When shifting my T-handle, I noticed it could still be moved in any position even when I released the T-handle button. When loosening the set screw of  the T-handle with an Allen wrench,  I noticed the pawl was getting looser and was now better fallen into the tabs for R, N, etc. A closer look was showing that the T-handle was a little twisted in relation to the shifter rod. Probably because of the T-handle was not in the right position, the mechanism that controls the pawl was not working right. So I placed a new white T-handle at the shifter rod, and it worked better.




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But sometimes, when shifting from Park to Drive (small dot), the shifter slips thru into the 2 (green dot). I have to tell you that my Mustang had originally a manual shifter and this was replaced with a C4 automatic. But the C4 is not the 65/66 type, but a later type C4 with PRND21. So again a close examination of the shifter was necessary. I noticed the pawl was worn out at the bottom. This caused the pawl not to stop correctly at the tabs. Time to replace the shift selector lever.





First remove the ½ inch nut under the car, which connects the transmission rod with the shifter rod.




I had a new adjustment bolt in case the old one needed replacement. Also other new parts for replacing the old ones.




Next was removing the shifter housing assembly. But I do have a console, so that one had to be removed first.



After removing several plates, I reached the housing. This one was bolted with four bolts to the floor.



Probably, the former owner first installed the shifter housing bucket and then a new carpet. It was so tight that I had to make some incisions in the carpet at the corners with a sharp knife, for reaching the bolts.









After removing the side access plug at the housing, I was able to loosening the 9/16 inch nut what connects the lower shifter lever to the upper shifter lever.


Separating the two levers was done without much effort. I read that sometimes a screwdriver was needed to pry the two levers apart with quite some force.

Ready to install the new bushings and the new chrome shift lever.







The new shift lever wouldn’t fit at the rectangular part of the lower lever. After  some filing off (at the new lever)  it fits. Now the new shifter bushings and a lot of grease, put everything back together and ready for use.


But after tighten the nut with the new bushings, the shifter lever needed quite some force to push it from park to drive. Eventually I installed the old bushing, which moved the lever smoothly. The old bushings were in good condition, but my idea was to replace the old stuff with new. Perhaps the new bushings will work smoother after a period of time.


Only the pawl had to be adjusted at the right position, so that it would follow the tabs correctly. At the bottom of the shift lever is a locknut and inside a screw for the adjustments. Keep the locknut with a wrench steady, and use a screwdriver for adjusting the screw. Put the T-handle on top while adjusting.



After the adjustments, rebuilding can be started. First the new shifter housing seal, what was disappeared over the years at mine’s,  then the housing with the 4 bolts, and the several  plates.



Then install the console with new screws and put the adjustments nut under the car at the intersection of the rods. For the right position: put the T-handle in Park, pull the transmission manual lever rod backwards to the car and tighten the nut.




Ron

 

Last edited by RonNL (12/16/2015 7:53 AM)