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I have almost and 1/2 inch gap on both sides, the little tabs you use to allow it to bolt to the back is blocking it from allowing it to go flush on the car.
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Thanks whlnut, my main issue is it isn't wide enough. The guy who did my body work is trying to see if a 67/68 will be a little wider. If not, then he is going to unfold the the lip on each side and get about 3/4 inch more. We even looked at buying a black seal with a wide lip to buy back some of the missing metal.
I did forget to check the original forum.
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I just helped Bullet Bob fix his. The valance is not too narrow, it just has too much bow in it. Take out the bow and it will magically get wider. The way to do that is to increase the angle of the offset right below where the valance screws on to the taillight panel behind the bumper. If yuo exagerate that lower bend, about 6" from the bottom, it will make the valance fit straighter across the bottom and will then reach from side to side. At that point the attaching pieces will also fit. This comes up so often, I need to do an FAQ page on it.
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Good stuff. Thank you MS. I just sent this off to the body guy to see if we can make this work. We cut off the tabs already trying to get things working. Grrrr.
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same issue. I solved with NOS piece. I also have seen some people add some metal to each side and grind to shape.
Fyi, I have another NOS non GT panel for 67-68 for sale.
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If yuo took a NOS panel and an aftermarket panel and put them side by sided, then took a tape measure and measured the bottom of the panel, following the curvature of the panel, you will get the exact same dimension in most cases. The NOS is more straight across the bottom where the aftermarket piece is curved.
They will fit without cutting or adding metal. By accentuating the bend in the upper flange, it makes the panel push farther forward and forces it to go straight across so it is like the NOS panel.
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MustangSteve wrote:
I just helped Bullet Bob fix his. The valance is not too narrow, it just has too much bow in it. Take out the bow and it will magically get wider. The way to do that is to increase the angle of the offset right below where the valance screws on to the taillight panel behind the bumper. If yuo exagerate that lower bend, about 6" from the bottom, it will make the valance fit straighter across the bottom and will then reach from side to side. At that point the attaching pieces will also fit. This comes up so often, I need to do an FAQ page on it.
Makes perfect sense, thank you!
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I must have missed this when first posted and I also missed MS fix for the problem. I cut mine in the center where the license plate would cover any blemish in my repair, then hooked up each side and then welded in a small piece to put it back together. I guess you do a lot of things the hard way when you don't know what you're doing. Butt(TS) it came out looking pretty decent.
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I picked up a NOS one from Carlisle years ago when I switched to duals but still had to build up the mating ends with lead to get it to fit properly.
I could have used a MIG but old school lead seemed to be an easier solution at the time.
Last edited by Rudi (1/21/2016 9:41 AM)
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MS wrote:
I just helped Bullet Bob fix his. The valance is not too narrow, it just has too much bow in it. Take out the bow and it will magically get wider. The way to do that is to increase the angle of the offset right below where the valance screws on to the taillight panel behind the bumper. If yuo exagerate that lower bend, about 6" from the bottom, it will make the valance fit straighter across the bottom and will then reach from side to side. At that point the attaching pieces will also fit. This comes up so often, I need to do an FAQ page on it.
Steve, I know I am dense on some things, but can you somehow show what you mean about "increasing the angle of the offset?" I couldn't find the info on the old forum. Thanks Jerry
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MS wrote:
I just helped Bullet Bob fix his. The valance is not too narrow, it just has too much bow in it. Take out the bow and it will magically get wider. The way to do that is to increase the angle of the offset right below where the valance screws on to the taillight panel behind the bumper. If yuo exagerate that lower bend, about 6" from the bottom, it will make the valance fit straighter across the bottom and will then reach from side to side. At that point the attaching pieces will also fit. This comes up so often, I need to do an FAQ page on it.
MS were you able to post a FAQ page on this? I couldn't follow how you said to rework it to fit. I don't follow the " increase the angle of the offset" statement. Thanks Jerry
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Why can't you simply cut a slice out stretch to where it needs to be then simply weld a piece in? I've done that on several valances or bolt it up on top then see how tight you can get it to fit next to the quarters then tack weld it on and if you still have a huge gap then simply cut it splice in a piece and weld it up then to make it look nice weld the rest of the balance on the car.
Last edited by True74yamaha (2/01/2016 10:18 PM)
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True74yamaha wrote:
Why can't you simply cut a slice out stretch to where it needs to be then simply weld a piece in?
You can, and some have. However, it's not as simple as leaving the valance in one piece and making the bow in it into a larger radius. No cutting, no welding, no body work.
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I realize that you still have to do body work welding etc, I never said you didn't. many replacment parts have to be made to fit. One thing that I've hurd that works sometines on a valance to make them work is this. You take some flat bill locking vise grip pliers or wiss duct pliers the bend the mounting flange on a greater angle. this helped to make my replacement valence to fit better. I also welded my valance in place grounded down my welds epoxy primed.
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Like True74YH said, you bend the mounting flange, across the top of the valance, so the valance is forced to fit tighter against the back of the car. By bending that flange, it forces the valance to flatten out into more of a straighter line instead of a long arc at the bottom. This makes the valance wider and it will then fit like it is supposed to. Once I get my 68 home, I will install a new valance on it and post in the TIP & HOW TO forum, but that may be a while.
Trying to simplify my explanation...
If you held the valance up to the back of the car, in the orientation it would be installed, take the flange at the top and bend that flange so the top of it points more to the front. Bend it so the angle is exaggerated from what you think it will be when installed, but don't get carried away. Then when you tighten all the screws at the top, it will force the bottom of the valance to fit correctly. No bodywork is required. Be sure you have the correct mounting studs that attach the bottom corners to the car, along with their little clips that hold the studs to the valance. Sometimes a little percussion engineering to flatten the mounting bracket at the corners is needed if it physically cannot pull up tight enough. This can happen if a quarter panel or patch panel has been welded to the car.
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I am going to drive my Mustang out to you on Saturday so you can point and grunt at which way this bend/straight piece goes.
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Actually, lay the panel down , inside down-outside up. Apply downward pressure with hand or foot to each edge, so as to decrease the bend . This will increase the radius. Trial fit , readjust as needed. Seems to make em fit.
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Mochaman wrote:
I am going to drive my Mustang out to you on Saturday so you can point and grunt at which way this bend/straight piece goes.
Sounds like a plan. That gives me another reason to bring a new valance down from the attic. You can film while I bend.
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