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I have a '68 Mustang with factory drum brakes. I've converted to 4 wheel disc. I just purchased the master cylinder that Mustang Steve sells on ebay for the disc/disc setup. It has a front port size of 1/2" and rear port size of 3/8". Does anyone know where I can find stainless steel pre-bent for my setup? The brake line kit I just purchased is stainless but it has 9/16" fitting for the front port and 1/2" on the rear port. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Inline Tube or Classic Tube will make up what ever you want...OR purchase a Raybestos master cylinder...MC36251 if you have power brakes and use the stock lines ....remove the residual pressure valve in the Front port before installing it .....jj
Last edited by jerseyjoe (1/09/2016 7:35 PM)
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You can just cut the one flare that is the wrong size and install a new tube nut with the correct threads. You will only lose about 3/16" of tube length. Special flare tools are required when doing stainless, though.
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Thanks guys for the great info!
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Also, the original pushrod from the master cylinder seems too long. It doesn't go into the piston as deep in my new master cylinder. Mustang Steve, do you happen to know if I need a different pushrod for my application? Is there anything that holds the pushrod in place. I don't see any place for the snap ring to engage. I destroyed the snap ring removing the original pushrod.
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The mc you received has exact same engagement depth as the one that came on your car, so the original rod is the same. Be sure your brake pedal cannot pull back far enough for the rod to pull out. On a 68 the brake pedal has a lever arm at the top to prevent that. No snap is needed.
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Thanks Mustang Steve. You're the man!!!
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I got the master cylinder bench bled and installed. I installed stainless steel brakes. I bled the brakes really well. They feel very solid. However, the pedal seems to travel pretty far before engaging. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
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Have you adjusted the rear shoes out as tight as possible against the drums? Allowing the wheel to still rotate, of course.
That will take the slack out of the system. Otherwise you might still have entrapped air.
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I have 4 wheel disc. The rear end is an 8.8 from a 2000 or 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with disc brakes.
Bump. I have the same issue with mine. Any ideas? Bled the system numerous times, pedal travel has been reduced alot by the conversion but still is about half way for engagement when engine running. Sometimes it will go further under hard braking too. Little un nerving for the wife when she drives it
I have a 1958 Ford Station Wagon Country Sedan with a 1995 5.0 mustang motor. The car has 4-wheel disc brakes and it stops like an original '58 Ford would stop without the disc brakes. I have limited space-can fit 8 or 9 inch booster. What would you recommend.
Last edited by 58FORD (3/19/2016 11:28 AM)
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