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I'm courious what's the difference between the 05 gt and v6 calipers is it just the bracket? The bore is the same. Can anyone shed light on this
Last edited by True74yamaha (6/19/2013 1:01 AM)
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The bracket is shorter on the V6 calipers. By same design, the caliper bracket on the 05-2010 GT 12.5" brakes are shorter than the brackets on the 2011 and newer 13.2" brakes. Calipers interchange on all three.
Before you get ideas of using the V6 calipers with my GT2008-FT brackets, the drum hub will not fit inside the hat section in the back of the V6 rotor. If you machine it down, the margin around the wheel stud holes get smaller than they should be. The later model hubs fit in there with the same bolt pattern because the wheel studs have a much smaller knurled section, only 0.56" diameter, vs the early hubs using 0.620" or larger. Also, the late model hubs are thicker material and are steel rather than cast, making them much stronger.
The margin is the distance between the edge of the stud hole and the edge of the hub. If it is too small, you risk cracking the hub, possibly releasing the wheel and creating havoc and an unsafe condition. This would be an issue with a bolt that simply goes through the hole, but is even worse when you have a pressed fit which tends to try and expand the hole.
You CAN use either the 12.5" or 13.2" GT brakes without issue. With those rotors, only a very small amount of the hub must be ground down or machined off for it to fit inside the larger rotors.
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Thanks Steve again for your quick response. Have you notices any big difference in the different front brake kits in stopping I only have a 65 with a 289 c4 auto with 327hp but the drums weren't cutting it and I like ease and safety of discs
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when I was completing my 05 brake setup, I found by accident that I had been given 05 gt discs with 05 v6 calipers....wouldn't bolt up,,...I was cursing for some time before I figured it out.
It's only the brackets that are different...the calipers between the v6 and v8 cars are the same. If you already have v6 calipers, you can score the v8 discs and brackets and you'll be good. I verified this also by looking at the caliper part numbers side by side, v6 vs v8
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MustangSteve wrote:
You CAN use either the 12.5" or 13.2" GT brakes without issue. With those rotors, only a very small amount of the hub must be ground down or machined off for it to fit inside the larger rotors.
FWIW, assuming I'm reading this correctly, the original V8 drum hubs on my '66 easily fit inside the 13.2" rotors with no modification to the hub O.D. - the only thing I had to do was very slightly clearance the I.D. of the rotor center hole to get it to fit over the centering rings supplied with MustangSteve's GT2008 kit. All it took was a small amount of elbow grease and a little sandpaper. Pic is test fitting everything before final clean-up and painting. Rotors are new take-off factory 2012 parts.
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The calipers for the V6 and V8 are not the same, the mounting holes on the V6 are off from the area that they are on the V8 calipers. If you interchange them on the same bracket one will sit higher than the other. I'll see if I can dig out one of each to post a pic later.
Jon
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i would like to see that..they had the same part numbers..plus i read the v6 guys just were swapping brackets and discs to get to v8 brakes
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Jonk67 wrote:
The calipers for the V6 and V8 are not the same, the mounting holes on the V6 are off from the area that they are on the V8 calipers. If you interchange them on the same bracket one will sit higher than the other. I'll see if I can dig out one of each to post a pic later.
Jon
I think you're confusing the caliper bracket, the part that carries the pads, and the caliper. The caliper piston assembly is the same from 2005 to current generation. It is only the caliper bracket that is different. Moving up from smaller to larger rotors it will be a taller part to move everything further out from wheel center so that the pads land at the right place on the larger rotors.
2005-2010 V6 cars used 11.5" rotors and 2011-2013 V6 use 12.4" rotors (which were the GT brakes for 2005-2010). 2005-2010 GTs used 12.4" rotors and the 2011-2013 GTs use 13.2" rotors.
So 11.5" V6 rotors and associated calipers will come with a shorter caliper bracket, the current 13.2" rotors will use the tallest bracket with the 12.4" rotor brackets falling somewhere in between the two in terms of height. All of these brackets use the same spacing for the mounting holes at the spindle & caliper attachment point.
For the OP, per MustangSteve it sounds like the only real problem with using the smaller 11.5" rotors (and the correct matching caliper bracket) is that the drum hub won't fit inside of the smaller 11.5" rotor without having to remove too much material from the hub O.D. to be safe. If you've got good calipers from a V6 you'll just need to find a set of brackets to use them with the 12.4" rotors.
Last edited by McStang (6/19/2013 3:40 PM)
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Jonk67 wrote:
The calipers for the V6 and V8 are not the same, the mounting holes on the V6 are off from the area that they are on the V8 calipers. If you interchange them on the same bracket one will sit higher than the other. I'll see if I can dig out one of each to post a pic later.
Jon
Actually... The caliper cradle has different hole distance from wheel centerline, but the calipers are the same.
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McStang, What's with that ball joint stud?
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we are all on the same page here however posting for my phone sometimes confuses my messages
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I was just going to go with 05 mustang gt front brake set up on my 65 but I found a great deal on some 2011 mustang gt rotors pads calipers and caliper brackets all for 100 bucks plus shipping. All else I need to get is the mustang steve drum spindle bracket can't wait till I'm braking.
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MustangSteve wrote:
McStang, What's with that ball joint stud?
It's a big Moog screw-in ball joint with the perfect taper for '65-73 Mustang spindles (these are '71-73 spindles on the '66) but the stud is a little longer than it needs to be so there's a 4130 spacer to get the castellated nut to line up with the cotter pin hole. In that pic everything was just finger tight for fitment. Here's one with everything properly bolted up, torqued and on the ground:
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True74yamaha wrote:
I was just going to go with 05 mustang gt front brake set up on my 65 but I found a great deal on some 2011 mustang gt rotors pads calipers and caliper brackets all for 100 bucks plus shipping. All else I need to get is the mustang steve drum spindle bracket can't wait till I'm braking.
That's exactly what I did 'cept I got fronts & rears for $225. Everything fits perfectly with Steve's brackets front & rear. I put Hawk HPS pads on all around and the car will definitely stop!
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McStang wrote:
MustangSteve wrote:
McStang, What's with that ball joint stud?
It's a big Moog screw-in ball joint with the perfect taper for '65-73 Mustang spindles (these are '71-73 spindles on the '66) but the stud is a little longer than it needs to be so there's a 4130 spacer to get the castellated nut to line up with the cotter pin hole. In that pic everything was just finger tight for fitment. Here's one with everything properly bolted up, torqued and on the ground:
Why not ditch the spacer and simply drill a new hole for the cotter pin lower on the stud?
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McStang wrote:
MustangSteve wrote:
McStang, What's with that ball joint stud?
It's a big Moog screw-in ball joint with the perfect taper for '65-73 Mustang spindles (these are '71-73 spindles on the '66) but the stud is a little longer than it needs to be so there's a 4130 spacer to get the castellated nut to line up with the cotter pin hole. In that pic everything was just finger tight for fitment. Here's one with everything properly bolted up, torqued and on the ground:
OK, I see. It is a custom ball joint. Looks good.
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The taper itself is longer than stock and sticks slightly above the spindle so a thicker washer is needed anyway. Also, the diameter right at the spindle is larger than the threads so you need to either clearance the washer or go slighly larger. If not, when you tighten, the washer will hang on the taper and not clamp the two parts. I installed the screw-in ball joints on my lowers. Not necessarily needed but I was rebuilding them and installing stiffeners so I went all the way with it.
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Looks like a way to use same ball joint no matter what size the spindle hole is. Much cheaper to supply a different spacer for each application that it is to supply a different ball joint!
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Well my brakes are being shipped do I till need a proportioning valve if I'm doing all four disc brakes? I would think so a lot of people say no
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I would want the front brakes to apply before the rears. My vote is proportioning valve. What are the qualifications of those who say you do not need one?
Heck, you can drive without rear brakes at all if you want. I drove a Mustang from Illinois to Texas with NO REAR BRAKES. It did have a proportioning valve though!
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For the record I say you need one I just Hurd that seance they are all disc it's even pressure. That was comming from a so called mechanic of 40 years telling me when He was Doing my state safety. Cause he asked me what else I was doing to my car. Ha I said well for one your rear shouldn't lock up before your front he was dumb founded so after that I took my car to my regular place
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So I purchased some 2011 mustang gt calipers rotors and pads new on eBay for only 100.00 great deal. So I'm courious though. Do I have to machine down the od of the drum hub to make the rotors fit? Because the pilot hole is pretty small
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True74yamaha wrote:
So I purchased some 2011 mustang gt calipers rotors and pads new on eBay for only 100.00 great deal. So I'm courious though. Do I have to machine down the od of the drum hub to make the rotors fit? Because the pilot hole is pretty small
If anything you would only have to shave a little off of the outer edge of the hub but I didn't have to do that with the 13.2" rotors, the hub fit inside the rotor hat with plenty of clearance. When you say 'pilot hole' do you mean the center hole in the rotor? Those should be quite a bit bigger than the O.D. of the hub bearing snout. If you use MustangSteve's kit to put these on your car he supplies a centering ring that fits over the hub's bearing snout to positively center the rotor on the hub. The I.D. of the center hole in the rotor should be about a 1/4" larger in diameter than the bearing snout, if not somebody sold you the wrong rotors or you do not have original drum hubs.
Edit: Can you post some measurements?
Last edited by McStang (6/23/2013 8:20 PM)
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I'm just courious yes I'm meant the pilot hole i was told its to small to fit over the drum hub so I'd have machine it a bit to get it to work
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I haven't test fited the rotors yet mine are being shipped
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