True74yamaha wrote:

Is that primer you used a 2k primer?

Yes - It's mixed 4:1, but added a bit of reduced to make it flow better so I was at about 4:1:0.5.

True74yamaha wrote:

jkordzi wrote:

True74yamaha wrote:

Is that primer you used a 2k primer?

Yes - It's mixed 4:1, but added a bit of reduced to make it flow better so I was at about 4:1:0.5.

 
Make sure to coat that with an epoxy sealer if you sand threw it at all! 2k sealers are not recommended for a bare metal surface. Yes they have bare metal adhesion properties, but most people even paint supply shop people don't realize they obsorbe water like a spung and will rust crack and delaminate horribly bad... Epoxy is the only recommended base/sealer when preping for paint. A 2k primer is used over the top over a properly prepaired epoxy. Also I know you didn't use a lacqure primer but they are about the same as a 2k when it comes to obsorbing water. I don't mean to bash your hard work only stating the truth on misunderstood products. Hope info helps you in the future. Also how and what did you use to prep your surface?

I think what you're saying is generally true, but this particular paint is formulated to be a DTM 2K primer and sealer.  It's highly regarded over on autobody101's site.  From TAMCO's site:

OUR PRIMERS: Tamco makes the finest quality primers money can buy. Again, we use the best ingredients. Our DTM 2K urethane primers do not use industrial enamels as others do. We use 100% acrylic polyols (same as what we use in our clears). Our resins are DIRECT TO METAL resins. Read the instructions on other primers. They most likely want you to use metal preps BEFORE applying the primer. Why? It’s because they do not use the more expensive direct to metal resins. WE DO! Our HP-5310, can be directly applied over sanded steel, galvanize, and even most aluminums -- try that with the others!

We also use both clay, and talc. Most modern primers to do blend the two powders. We do. This gives you are a little harder to sand primer initially - BUT WILL NOT DRAW SAND SCRATCHES in 90 days! Our primers have NO EQUAL in the market. (65% solids in the HC-5310). Our Primers DO NOT SHRINK!

That's admittedly some pretty high talk, but it seems to be backed up but what I'm seeing in posts on autobody101.  Also, there are other DTM primers besides epoxies (e.g., etching primers and lacquer primer which has been sprayed on bare metal for decades).  My thinking was that using this product would save me the step of first spraying epoxy and then following up with a high build primer (which this is), not to mention some money.  Also, I liked the fact that it contains a rust inhibitor.  I talked to the owner who stated they did a test in which they sprayed half of a badly rusted hood with this primer and left it outside for a year and no bleed thru resulted.  I obviously don't have any personal long term experience with it, but I can't scrape it off the surface now and it sands very well without clogging.  I prepped the surface by sanding down the original paint with 40, 80, and them 180 grit.  I then used a wax and grease remover before painting.  Time will tell.
 

Last edited by jkordzi (3/03/2016 7:53 PM)

Usually when they say they are a DTM 2k the catch is that they mean it's a DTM on a 4" circle spot.  But for an over all it's never recommended. I'm sure it will be nice though as good base im just stating what all auto paint makers  say that you should do.  And how they primers are ment to be used.

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/03/2016 9:20 PM)

Sounds like you are doing a fine job...I too would spray a coat of sealer prior to final color...a single stage color makes for easy repairs down the road...give the final color enough coats for color sanding....check with Mfgr....

True74yamaha wrote:

If you don't mind your car fading over time and having to re spray it in a few years, by all means spray a single stage. But really the price for a single stage is actually a lot of the time the same if not very close to that of a BC/CC system. I would get a good base and then follow up with some SPI Clear. I also realize you wanted your paint to not have a real high sheen to it. Since that's the case you can use the SPI flatner in the clear and it will give you a lower sheen clear.

I agree that there is no significant difference in price.  My main issue with BC/CC is that I see CC failures every day - most being factory applied under super controlled conditions.  I've also seen more than a few non-factory CC failures.  So not being an expert, I'm concluding that either the paint used was fault, or that BC/CC is pretty particular about how it's applied, and my chances of pulling of a lnice looking and ong lasting BC/CC in my garage is less than if I used single stage.  My other conclusion after researching how much of an art it is to properly blend BC/CC when repaired is that single stage is a lot easier to repair and touch up.  I would like to know more about why you feel that BC/CC won't fade as much as single stage.
 

True they can and will fade but they do hold their gloss longer than a single stage. Plus they have better rock chip prevention then single stage paints. Then again to each their own on what they are looking for and how they want the car or what ever it is to look down the road.

Factory clearcoats are designed to fade in a few years so you will buy a new car. You will apply more clear and the car will be maintained better.

Do it the way you want it. Learn as you go. You will have something to be very proud of when you get through.