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I posted this on the tips and how to page by mistake, so I will try here.
My friend had a Tremec 5 sp. installed in his 83 LX conv ( the car came with a 3sp with o/d) and normal shifting is smooth, but when trying to power shift ( or speed shift) it just won't go in gear and a lot of grinding happens. Is there an underlying problem or is this normal.
Is there a better version of this transmission that would be better suited for power shifting. I have heard members on this forum speak of the z version, would this help?
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The Tremec and the T5 are totally different transmissions. The "Z-Spec" you hear everyone talking about is the version of the T5 currently sold through Ford Racing Performance Parts, and is basically a standard World Class T5 with a close ratio gear set and all the synchro updates. It's a good trans designed for moderate power with a rear gear in the 3.50 or higher range.
Tremec 5 speeds were designed as upgrades to the T5, which had a bad reputation for durability. That reputation is somewhat undeserved, but if you abuse the trans in a heavy car they do tend to break. Tremec was at that time a separate company, as the T5 was built by Borg/Warner. Eventually Tremec bought the T5 rights from Borg/Warner, adding to confusion about Tremec 5 speeds. But, I digress, Tremec started out with the 3550, and eventually they released an even stronger version dubbed the TKO. Today, those boxes are still out there used, but the current iteration of the Tremec 5 speed is either the TK500 or TK600, with the number being the torque rating of the trans in lbs/ft. They are tough, well built transmissions. However, there have been complaints about the synchronizers and shift quality since the first Tremec came off the line. The issue I feel is that the Tremec has never been factory offered in any vehicle, and thus has never had to conform to OEM tolerance for smoothness, NVH, etc. The shifting is almost alwasy described as "notchy".
I will say that over time they tend to loosen up. If your buddy's trans is new I'd drive it until it loosens up. If its used a rebuild might be in order. Missing a powershift tends to damage the engagement teeth on the gear, rounding them over and mushrooming them, making shifting even harder. Sometimes the trans will jump out of gear if the issue is bad enough. The synchro rings oddly enough tend not to be damaged, and I've pulled good rings off fragged gears many times.
For all things Tremec I'd advise speaking to the leading man in the field: Bob Hanlon from Hanlon Motorsports. I've known Bob for years. He's a great and knowledgeable guy. Here's a link to his wensite:
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That is very good information, I guess he needs to go to his ford motorsport guy and find out what he bought.
He did buy it new last summer so it may take some break-in. Thanks
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I have raced with a Tremec for many years. And you are right, it is a chore to shift correctly. For one it is a big transmission. Center shaft distance is big for a 4 or 5 speed. Good part of that is that it will take a beating. Bad part is the parts are big and heavy. So it shifts like a truck. I have found that you need to match revs very closely to get any kind of fast shift. The higher the revs, the worse the problem. I have found that an unusually high idle setting helps a bit since that will cause the engine revs to slow less quickly. I left the choke linkage in my car but removed the choke plate so I can use the high idle cam to get to that unusually high idle. Best thing is to learn to keep some throttle during shifts to keep the revs closer to the synchro point.
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Check clutch adjustment to ensure full disengagement when shifting. A low pedal, and early engagement are signs that adjustment is needed. The problem is greater at high rpms.
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The other thing you might want to check is bellhousing bore runnout to see whether or not the input shaft and crank centerlines are inline. With factory stuff this is rarely an issue, but since the Tremec was never a factory trans and requires a different bellhousing or adapter there is some potential for misalignment.
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Just a follow up, which some of you might want to hear, this is the conversation my friend had with the Ford Motorsport guy, " quote' I spoke to Roland yesterday. He said the transmission in my car is a T5Z. He also said he didn’t think I had enough mileage on the car and shifting should get better with time. The next step is a TKO, which he did not recommend unless I damage this transmission, which he thinks I won’t do.
Thanks to all that responded.
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Then I call BS. The T5Z has the best synchro setup ever offered in the T5. If its not shifting right something is wrong. How's the clutch release? Fox body cars always did best with some form of clutch adjustment other than the cable end at the fork. I used to run firewall adjusters. It made setting pedal height a breeze.
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For sure the T5 should shift really nice. Like TKO I think the clutch must be in need of something. My T5 will shift up or down in a blink at any Revs.I am running a South Bend Clutch and it is very nice.
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Wow, didn't know SB made clutches for cars, cool. They get rave reviews from all the Diesel guys who run manual trannys. Amazing holding power in trucks making north of 1,000lbs/ft.
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What gear oil is being used? The use of standard gear oil will greatly affect shifting (or not shifting). I have found using the exact oil called for by the manufacturer is much better than what you think or especially what others think you should run. But, assuming that you have the right oil, it sure sounds like a clutch issue or bell housing alignment if an aftermarket bellhousing is being used. I think Steve has posted previously that he has never had issues with a factory bell.
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Yes, it should be ATF.
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All WC T5s were designed to run ATF, which at the time was probably Mercon III. Today I don't know if you can buy anything other than Mercon IV. I would advise running a good synthetic ATF like Amsoil, which is what I run in all my WC T5s and T56s.
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All good advice, I will pass it on to my friend and his mechanic because he wants to do what's right.
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