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Will a slightly retarded initial timing affect the engine operating temperature at idle?
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I have seen it make the engine run hotter under load. Not sure about idle,since there is no advance in operation anyway. Advance it and let us know.
A defective vacuum advance can make the engine get hot under load.
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The Crane distributer I have has an variable electronic vacuum and mechanical advance.
The engine runs great but I was in a 2 1/2 hour parade last Sunday and it got up to 210 so I bailed out, othet than that it stays at 180.
The initial timing is at10 degrees but I dont want to mess with it anymore since I like it the way it is.
PS no more parades!.
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Im suppose to be in a Parade/Car show on Sunday. I think Im going to bow out myself for the same reason.
Steve69
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Check coolant make sure you are correct mixture 5050 you can even go to jiffy lube and ask for some coolant test strips I won't let them touch my car cause of bad rep her in Riverton Utah. They will let you know you acid level ie rust. Regardless of if the radiator is new or rebuild. You can take it to jiffy lube and have them power flush or I made my own flush kit with another kit. Go to Wollie world and get a Preston coolant flush it uses a garden hose to back flush you'r car. Now what I did was got a hose spliter and use a female hose to 1/2" mip bushing and then a 1/2" to 1/4" bushing or something like that. So I could put in a female air hose connector in it. That way I could pressurize the system and while it was back pressuring it blew out snot out of my block and new radiator. Also homedepot sales this in the paint section it's krudcutters must for rust you can put it in the radiator and it will de scale it and kill the rust. And it's safe to leave in the radiator it even states it on the container. Some people use vinagar as well I'd try this. Also double check your timing that will mess your cars running temp. Check or replace the themostat in the car. And when you do make sure if you have a alluminum manifold do not over tighten or really tighten the bolts I would get the had ratchets they sale and use that to tighten the bolts to many times have I seen this and the thred maybe wasn't fully stiped but enough to make a pin hole leak and then a bigger one. Also permatex sales there gasket maker good stuff they even sale a instant gasket maker I believe black I'd use that.
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If all else fails leave car running and use the block checker that auto part stores sale and see if you have a bad gasket. Many times people aren't even aware they do till to late cause it doesn't affect them like they usually do. If its a 289-351 those blocks have been known for having bad gaskets on the left head near the back bank for some reason I've seen many with pin hole size holes and I'm only 23 . I just replaced on on a 65. I would also take your cap off and take it to Oriley auto or autozone or where ever and have them test the cap. I have seen and experienced having over heat like you when my cap was only one pound off from specs so make sure to check everything.
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Whats a Block Checker?
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I think he means a cooling system pressure checker.
Anybody having recurring problems with SBF head gaskets is not doing something right. Have never heard of them having head gasket problems.
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True74yamaha wrote:
If all else fails leave car running and use the block checker that auto part stores sale and see if you have a bad gasket. Many times people aren't even aware they do till to late cause it doesn't affect them like they usually do. If its a 289-351 those blocks have been known for having bad gaskets on the left head near the back bank for some reason I've seen many with pin hole size holes and I'm only 23 . I just replaced on on a 65. I would also take your cap off and take it to Oriley auto or autozone or where ever and have them test the cap. I have seen and experienced having over heat like you when my cap was only one pound off from specs so make sure to check everything.
I use DISTILLED water and that pretty well solved my rusty water problem. I recommend it to all the Poop Boyz customers when they flush and fill rad.
6sally6
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Not really a system pressure. But they sell a product at wallmart and auto part stores that is a liquid and you pour into your radiator and it will change color if it if oil is present or any signs of exhaust. If you get up to 210 with 185 stat then something's wrong
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Yup distilled water is actually specified as well when changing coolant
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Any luck with your car
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True74yamaha wrote:
Any luck with your car
The cars temperature is fine in most conditions except when idleing for over an hour in drive.
Might have to go with a Contour electric fan or a mechanical fan and shroud.
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Hmm just when Id hmm go threw reset your carb and timing then take an air compressor and carefully blow the radiator fins you'd be suprised how much gets in there.
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You're car might just like the 210 temp but still weird seance you have a low temp thermostat. Test your cap. My 289 has a 195 stat at sits at 210 all day
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Rudi, 210 degrees is not excessively hot for your engine. The thermostat's purpose is to get your engine to a certain heat range - 180 degrees or above in your case. The engine is designed to run at the range of thermostat opening and higher - to a degree (no pun intended). Water boils at about 212 degrees at sea level. 50/50 coolant boils a little higher. The boiling point can be increased by increasing the pressure on the water (coolant). Each pound will give an increase of 3 degrees IIRC. So, an 8 pound radiator cap will give you a safe upper limit of 236 degrees. The danger zone is when you have gotten to a heat level that will overcome the radiator cap and send your coolant elsewhere. Hopefully you have a recovery system on the car.
Most of the newer cars have 190 degree thermostats and higher.
The reason a car overheats at parade speeds often has to do with the wind direction. 5 mph parade speed with a 5 mph tail wind can really tax the cooling system.
Good Luck
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For reference again, I present this cooling system article. It thoroughly explains each component of the cooling system. While it refenences a bowtie engine, cooling systems and thermal dynamics of a combustion engine are the same regardless of who it's made by.
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Sort of off topic but ...are there certain words or brand names that aren't allowed to be used here?
After just posting my previous response, I went back to re-read it. I had typed in the word C-h-e-v-r-o-l-e-t and after posting to re-read it, the word was arbitrarily changed to the name "Bowtie" instead???
Last edited by ultrastang (6/29/2013 2:43 PM)
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If it was me I'd up grade the stock fan with a clutch to help keep the water pump working longer and so it doesn't force stop
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Rudi...IIRC your 347 is NOT a "cammed-up" version,right?! Makes me think it needs more initial timing. You have a nice size radiator too,don't you?! Has it ran ho-ter in the past? Check the temp with an infer red sensor to get an "actual" temp in the rad first. May just be an ugly guage!!...or the cap... try the watter-wetter!
6sal6
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6sally6 wrote:
Rudi...IIRC your 347 is NOT a "cammed-up" version,right?! Makes me think it needs more initial timing. You have a nice size radiator too,don't you?! Has it ran ho-ter in the past? Check the temp with an infer red sensor to get an "actual" temp in the rad first. May just be an ugly guage!!...or the cap... try the watter-wetter!
6sal6
Mike, it's a 331 with a bit of a cam upgrade. Yeah the rad is a new 24 inch aluminum Champion that never got hot since I put it in, then again its the first parade as well..
I think the initial right now is about 10 degrees, I know it should be 12 but i will keep bumping it up till it starts to ping and then back it off.
Ill see what it does on the way to Asheville next week
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