I run my hoses on top of the intake manifold straight back to the firewall.  It makes the engine compartment a lot cleaner than having them go out by the shock tower.

PCV valve is run with a 90 degree fitting on top and the hose goes to the rear of the carb base.  Driver side valve cover has a breather for the fresh air inlet.  I have another oil cap that has a hose that goes up under the air cleaner, but not installed right now.

MS wrote:

I run my hoses on top of the intake manifold straight back to the firewall.  It makes the engine compartment a lot cleaner than having them go out by the shock tower.

PCV valve is run with a 90 degree fitting on top and the hose goes to the rear of the carb base.  Driver side valve cover has a breather for the fresh air inlet.  I have another oil cap that has a hose that goes up under the air cleaner, but not installed right now.

I would like to run all mine off the manifold as well. Are there certain ports that are suggested or does it matter? I know the way the PO had them hooked up before. It made it reverse flow. The heater was also hot enough you could roll down the windows and still break a sweat on low heat.
 

The water pump connection is the suction end of the heater system.  The intake manifold connection is the pressure end of the system.

It makes sense to pressurize the heater core from the bottom first to help eliminate any bubbles forming inside the core.  So, INTAKE manifold connects to BOTTOM CORE CONNECTION.  TOP CORE CONNECTION goes to the water pump.

On a related note... Some think that drilling a small steam hole in the thermostat will help circulate water better when the engine is warming up.  Fortunately, Ford engineers way back figured that out and added a 5/8" diameter bypass hose on all the Windsor small blocks for that very reason, to let water circulate around the thermostat if it is not open.  So, the drilling of a hole in the thermostat is not needed.

I would show you mine but there isn't much to see, I ran them down the front of the engine behind the A/C compressor then along the oil pan rail and up the back, I used formed 90 degree hoses to connect to the heater core nipples, Very neat and not covering the intake manifold. 

Kristang wrote:

    Very Nice!  How did you hide all your wires and AC lines?
 

Thanks guys!  Hiding plumbing and wiring takes a lot of planning but can be done.  I was able to route everything under the fenders, they are well protected too.  The heater lines are just flared aircraft aluminum tubing and AN fittings.  It's actually quite simple although I made my share of mistakes perfecting it all.  The first thing I always look at when I'm at a car show is engine bays.  If they are clean, it usually is representative of the rest of the car.  Of course everyone has their own ideas and taste.

The tubing came from McMaster Carr, the fitting all came from Jegs and are all Jegs brand fittings except for the swivel fitting that is in the intake, that one is an Earls fitting.  At the back I used push loc hose with barbed fittings.

Steve69 wrote:

Kristang wrote:

Thanks guys! Hiding plumbing and wiring takes a lot of planning but can be done. I was able to route everything under the fenders, they are well protected too. The heater lines are just flared aircraft aluminum tubing and AN fittings. It's actually quite simple although I made my share of mistakes perfecting it all. The first thing I always look at when I'm at a car show is engine bays. If they are clean, it usually is representative of the rest of the car. Of course everyone has their own ideas and taste.

   You'll have to post some pics on how you hide all the FItech EFI wiring.  I'd like to see that...
 

I've already been thinking about that.  I don't think it will be impossible since I already have a fan controller and I'll just use my MSD box.  I'm not going to run a return line from the throttle body either, so less plumbing in the engine bay and it eliminates the fuel pump.  I am going with a tanks inc. tank and pump instead of their fuel command center.  I am also thinking of adding a 150 shot of Nitrous just for fun and I think it would look cool.
 

Kristang wrote:

Thanks guys!  Hiding plumbing and wiring takes a lot of planning but can be done.  I was able to route everything under the fenders, they are well protected too.  The heater lines are just flared aircraft aluminum tubing and AN fittings.  It's actually quite simple although I made my share of mistakes perfecting it all.  The first thing I always look at when I'm at a car show is engine bays.  If they are clean, it usually is representative of the rest of the car.  Of course everyone has their own ideas and taste.

 

Do you have any pics from when you were building the car that show how you ran all the wires, etc.? 

I assume your battery is in the trunk?  Where'd you put the solenoid?

And what alternator and bracket set up are you using?

Sorry for all the questions, but my car is coming home from the paint shop soon and then I get to start putting it back together and I'd love to be able to replicate the look of your engine bay!

Chaplin wrote:

Kristang wrote:

Thanks guys! Hiding plumbing and wiring takes a lot of planning but can be done. I was able to route everything under the fenders, they are well protected too. The heater lines are just flared aircraft aluminum tubing and AN fittings. It's actually quite simple although I made my share of mistakes perfecting it all. The first thing I always look at when I'm at a car show is engine bays. If they are clean, it usually is representative of the rest of the car. Of course everyone has their own ideas and taste.

 

Do you have any pics from when you were building the car that show how you ran all the wires, etc.?

I assume your battery is in the trunk? Where'd you put the solenoid?

And what alternator and bracket set up are you using?

Sorry for all the questions, but my car is coming home from the paint shop soon and then I get to start putting it back together and I'd love to be able to replicate the look of your engine bay!

I do have pics of the wiring, unfortunately they are not on this computer.  I will upload some of them later for you.  It was really quite simple.  I went to Home Depot and bought a roll of flexible conduit that is use for running house wiring.  It is a wound metal that is in a plastic/rubber sleeve.  They have 90 degree ends and plastic ends to terminate.  I ran all the wiring for the front of the car through this and it all spills out behind the drivers side headlight.  I have a relay panel there for the lights as well. Once the wiring spills out of the tube I ran everything for the passenger side on the back side of the radiator support in black mesh wire covering I purchased from Jegs and heat shrinked to the wiring wherever it terminated.  I just used insulated line clamps and bolted the tubing to the underside of fender bolts, out of the way of everything.

My front drive is from Millerspeed with a cog belt. No, it is not noisy, I get that question a lot.  I have a 3g, one wire alternator.

Yes, my battery is in the trunk.  I have a solenoid on the starter and one mounted to my battery box.  I'm still having starter cranking issues when the car gets hot, which I'm still trying to resolve.  Maybe time for a heat sleeve on the starter.

Thanks for the questions!
 

Last edited by Kristang (7/23/2016 10:31 AM)