Hey Daze, The pictures aren't there.

Nice work!

wsinsle wrote:

were you able to get a measurement on the final venture?

I never thought to measure the new bore.  When I was measuring to find a suitable tube I was only worried about the OD of the pipe so that it would fit properly.  I figured what ever fit would be what I had to use and as long as it was at least 1" I would be good to go.

I went out to the garage and put a bore gage in the sleeves and they came in at 1.05".  I know its a little less than the 1.08" but I don't really see the need to try an enlarge the bore of the sleeves.  The smaller bore should give better throttle response and if the engine needs more air the vacuum secondaries should come open to compensate.
 

Thanks!!  its hard to tell in the pix but the leading edge is actually feathered.  Its angled to match the carb and then the inside lip is rounded off for a smoother transition.  I polished up the copper after I shaped it and the flash off the polish is what is making it look more like a normal lip.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Ford-Mustang-Autolite-4100-Carburetor-C5OF-J-/172268694552?hash=item281c03ac18:g:eDQAAOSwAPlXgUD1&vxp=mtr   And he HAS to have a core!

Perfect those inserts and you might just make a small fortune selling them!  Maybe Im getting old, but I remember going to a swap meet back in the 90's and a guy had a whole pile of 4100's for 5 to 10 dollars apiece.   Nobody wanted them.  Pony carbs did for Autolites what Barrett Jackson did for classic cars.  

Last edited by Greg B (7/10/2016 11:55 AM)

The Pony Carbs reducers measure 1.00" I.D. and appear to be made of nylon-





My boosters are stamped KA, but bare in mind that designation was used on a 1.12, a 1.08, and an early 2100 with 1.01 venturi and I haven't had time to measure everything to verify what Jon at Pony put in this carb. I know that emulsion tubes and emulsion wells do vary in size for the autolite family of carbs and that plays a big role in how and when the mixture is metered and delivered.

Greg B wrote:

Perfect those inserts and you might just make a small fortune selling them!  

That is a long ways out but is somthing I thought of when I first started this project.  if I can make it simple enough to work well in most applications than its a go.  As I was flaring the pipe I came up with a custom die design so that I can make them all the same.  

​

boomyal wrote:

Will you use any locktite on them once you make a final determination as to their suitability?  Being an AutoLite fan, I'll be anxious to see the outcome.  Are you going to be able to make any comparisons of the boosters?
 

I really dont think Locktite will be needed. With the lip on the top and the vent tube in the bore there is no way for the part to drop down into the bore, and with them being a slight press fit I don't expect them to work up and out.  When I installed them I was able to press them in by hand but once fully seated I had to use a brass punch and small hammer to get them back out.  As to the boosters I have nothing to compare them too so I really can't say what the differences are.

Jon Richard, Thanks for posting the pix!!!  I searched the net hoping to find pictures (why reinvent the wheel) but never could find anything.​

MS wrote:

Nice fab work. Can't wait to see how it runs.
I really like your willingness to tear into something and try out a theory.

Thanks!!  for me thats the fun part.  in fact often times it takes me a long time to fully finish a project because once I have all the bugs worked out of something its not as fun.  I like the problem solving and the challenge of creating something from nothing or making a part work well in a way that it was never intended to work. 

 

Amazing detail Daze. I can't wait to see how it works out for you.

Nice very nice.

boomyal wrote:

Daze, is your 'die' such that you would be able to turn those reducers out in mass?

 
Yes that is the plan, but only if I can meet the following criteria: first it has to work and work well, I won't sell them if it only sort of works. Second I need to be able to make them quickly and easily and still be a quality piece so that I can keep the costs down. I like all my products to be as affordable as possible.

Greg B wrote:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Ford-Mustang-Autolite-4100-Carburetor-C5OF-J-/172268694552?hash=item281c03ac18:g:eDQAAOSwAPlXgUD1&vxp=mtr   And he HAS to have a core!

Perfect those inserts and you might just make a small fortune selling them!  Maybe Im getting old, but I remember going to a swap meet back in the 90's and a guy had a whole pile of 4100's for 5 to 10 dollars apiece.   Nobody wanted them.  Pony carbs did for Autolites what Barrett Jackson did for classic cars.  

Question from the auction:

Q: I'm interested in the C5OF-J carb but think there is a mistake in the price. I presume it was meant to be listed at $999.95 rather than almost $10,000. If the price is $999.95 please let me know as I would like to buy the carb. Thanks

A: Hi, Thank you for Your Question, Their is Honestly No Mistake, the Cost of the Carburetor is indeed $9,999.95. I am Open to Offers, however as of Now, the Price you see is the Price We are Selling this Carburetor for. Dan P.s. We are Always getting in Ford Carburetors, is their any Other Carburetor you were Looking for?


Another eBay seller on crack!
 

Jon Richard wrote:

Your thread got me excited about these carbs again and I've bought two more rare/ unique 4100's since you've posted and have done some more measuring- you bad influence!

I have a few Edsel 4100's from '58 that have 1.06" primary venturi size, thats the closest in size Ford produced to what you have. I could measure the booster orifices with precision for comparison should you decide to really play with the fuel curve.

That's me trying to influence you ;)

I like being a bad influence.  this project is going along all be it slow.  I got some size 48 jets to put in the front and I will move the original 55 front jets to the back.  I have the rebuild kit and the "bugs" worked out of my inserts.  now all I need to do is get all the parts cleaned up, an put it all back together. 

As to messing with the boosters I think I have a plan there as well.  The openings for the primary boosters are small but the openings for the secondary boosters are huge, they are labeled B and C with B being the bigger one from the secondaries and C being the smaller one from the primaries.  I also have two other autolite carbs that I collected over the years, both are 2 barrel.  One came from a 69 pickup with a 360 in it and the other was the carb that came on the 352 that was in my galaxie when I got it.  I have pulled the boosters from both of those carbs and one is stamped AA and the other is stamped D.  Both have smaller openings than the the B booster from the 4 barrel carb's secondaries but are slightly larger than the C booster.  What I think I will do is run the 4100 as it came from the factory (with the exception of smaller jets) after I finish the rebuild.  I will then install the inserts and see what kind of a difference they make in performance.  After that I will swap out the secondary booster for one of the smaller ones and see if the carb functions even better.

funny thing is this is all more of an exercise in knowledge and now possibly a new DazeCars product.  I have always preferred Edelbrock carbs over Holley's because even though they produce slightly less power I like their  "one size fits many" ability and the fact that they are relatively maintenance free.  I started this project hearing of the nearly mythical properties of the the 4100 so I wanted to try it and see if it was as good as they say.  However after doing a bunch of research I have learned that basically the autolite 4100 is functionally similar to a Holley so when its all said and done I will probably put the Edelbrock back on after I finish the project.