Bullet Bob wrote:

Kristang wrote:

I'm still having starter cranking issues when the car gets hot, which I'm still trying to resolve.  Maybe time for a heat sleeve on the starter.

Thanks for the questions!
 

What are you doing for a ground on the battery?  Corky had a problem until we added a length of #2 from the batt. neg. to the transmission.  Just can't have too solid of a ground.

Nuther reason I dislike batteries in the trunk.  Just sayin'

BB

Bob, I have it grounded to the frame in the rear of the car, right near where the old leaf spring mounted back by the rear valance.  Do you think this could be my problem?
 

6sally6 wrote:

I grounded mine in the same place......I also ran a ground from the engine to the frame AND a ground wire from engine to body. I eliminated my second solenoid.........just use the one built into the starter.
BulletBob talked me through it!
ZERO starting problems when hot.
6s6

Thanks Sal.  Interesting.  I also have a ground from the engine to the frame.  Not quite sure why having 2 solenoids would cause a hot start issue?  Hopefully Bob will chime in....
 

Kristang wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

I grounded mine in the same place......I also ran a ground from the engine to the frame AND a ground wire from engine to body. I eliminated my second solenoid.........just use the one built into the starter.
BulletBob talked me through it!
ZERO starting problems when hot.
6s6

  Not quite sure why having 2 solenoids would cause a hot start issue?  Hopefully Bob will chime in....
 

Don't think  the solenoid has much to do with the hot start prob either. Jus say'in.  Having it grounded in multiple spots can't hurt.
Are you running a "load" of compression?!
You using the newer " high torque mini starter"?
Big enough battery?
Could put an ignition-interuptor/cut-out-switch on. (cuts out the coil when spinning the engine over....then switch the coil power on once the engine spins up).
6s6

From what I ready just recently on another thread believe it was VMF. The people on there said it will work to take out the one solenoid and just use the one off the started if equipped. The problem is the ignition. From factory they say that the stays on for a short second. They say it will wreck your ignition after awhile unless a diode was to be installed. Another person who replied to that thread said that he wired his starter up like a Gm and hasn't had any problems. So who knows

Kristang wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

Kristang wrote:

  Not quite sure why having 2 solenoids would cause a hot start issue?  Hopefully Bob will chime in....
 

Don't think  the solenoid has much to do with the hot start prob either. Jus say'in.  Having it grounded in multiple spots can't hurt.
Are you running a "load" of compression?!
You using the newer " high torque mini starter"?
Big enough battery?
Could put an ignition-interuptor/cut-out-switch on. (cuts out the coil when spinning the engine over....then switch the coil power on once the engine spins up).
6s6

Compression ratio is 10:1
Powermaster Mini Starter
CCA's on my battery are 575
I'm using 2/0 cable on my grounds. Maybe another ground could help?  I currently have 2 grounds, one from the battery to the frame and one from the engine block to the frame.  Where else should a guy run another ground?
 

Jeez!!...you would think 'more than two grounds is over-kill!'  Maybe ground the starter  to the engine block?!
I DID run one of those 'flat" ground wires from the engine to the body. Lectric-smart buddy of mine sez those are better than just a regular round stranded wire.
6s6
 

Steve69 wrote:

Whats it doing?  Cranking slow?  Not cranking at all?  I have the same setup as you with a mini starter with no issues.   When I had a Carb and it was hot mine would Vapor Lock where it wouldn't fire but it crank all day long.  Steve69 

When it gets up to operating temp and I shut if off about 50% of the time it cranks really slow, the other 50% it spins over a couple of times and fires.  I bought a new power master starter hoping that was the problem.  I clocked the solenoid so it is at the 6 o'clock position, sitting below the header tubes and in a place where air is moving around it.  Sometimes when it cranks slow it kicks out my circuit breaker.  If I give it a couple of minutes it fires right off.  Water temp on a warm day usually sits about 200F.

BobE wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

Kristang wrote:

I'm still having starter cranking issues when the car gets hot, which I'm still trying to resolve.  Maybe time for a heat sleeve on the starter.

Thanks for the questions!
 

What are you doing for a ground on the battery?  Corky had a problem until we added a length of #2 from the batt. neg. to the transmission.  Just can't have too solid of a ground.

Nuther reason I dislike batteries in the trunk.  Just sayin'

BB

I agree w/BB, you should run the ground cable from the battery directly to the engine.  Relying on the body/frame for the electrical "return" is not a good idea due to excessive current draw of the starter has on the battery and the resultant voltage drop, copper (or aluminum) is a much better electrical conductor than steel. 
I had this problem years ago with a trunk battery installation and it was solved by adding the ground cable directly to the engine.
Although I have my battery in the front, I still run the ground from the battery directly to the starter.  As indicated in other posts you also need to ground the engine to the body to avoid other electrical issues.
 

Thanks BobE.  It certainly cannot hurt to try running the battery ground back up to the engine.  I will give it a go, especially since you indicated having a similar experience.  Now I know what I'm doing with all the left over ground cable I have!  Thanks for the suggestions.  I will update here when I get it done and can give it a test.
 

Mach1_Ron wrote:

Kristang wrote:

BobE wrote:

I agree w/BB, you should run the ground cable from the battery directly to the engine.  Relying on the body/frame for the electrical "return" is not a good idea due to excessive current draw of the starter has on the battery and the resultant voltage drop, copper (or aluminum) is a much better electrical conductor than steel. 
I had this problem years ago with a trunk battery installation and it was solved by adding the ground cable directly to the engine.
Although I have my battery in the front, I still run the ground from the battery directly to the starter.  As indicated in other posts you also need to ground the engine to the body to avoid other electrical issues.
 

Thanks BobE.  It certainly cannot hurt to try running the battery ground back up to the engine.  I will give it a go, especially since you indicated having a similar experience.  Now I know what I'm doing with all the left over ground cable I have!  Thanks for the suggestions.  I will update here when I get it done and can give it a test.
 

I do agree about having good and even multiple grounds, however my battery is in the trunk and the Ground cable from it goes to the frame... I also have Frame to Engine Block, which is essentially Battery to Engine Block. I used 00 Welding cable for these ground cables and Do Not have any cranking issues, Hot, Warm or Cold. I used to have weird issues and they ALL seemed to get taken care of with Good Grounds.
 

This is why I am baffled.  My grounds are the same as yours Yet I have this hot cranking issue.