It's a little more difficult, but there is money to be saved by shopping around. Buy from multiple suppliers. Check freight options. 

I think it depends on what's in the kit. If you are replacing everything and everything you need is in the kit then that's the way to go. If you have to add to the kit or the kit includes parts you don't need then shop around.

I'd go seperate rather than a kit. You can go to napa or oriley or autozone and get the parts cheaper. The only thing that oriley and autozone done sale are the perches. I don't know if Napa does or not.

The rear end has nothing to do with the suspension.  I'm talking about springs and shock, as well as possibly an antiroll bar.  A chassis is a system.  You can't just address one end and expect it to work right.  You need to match spring and shock rates at each corner, then address roll stiffness front and rear to tune the suspension for the desired limit handling characteristics.  Its not as simple as adding higher rate front springs to account for the V8 swap and calling it good enough, not if you ever intend to lean on it at all.  This is why a kit is a good way to go because if you get it from someone like say Mustangs Plus it will be a proven system designed to work together.  At the very least I'd buy a kit with springs, shocks, and antiroll bars.  You can definitely get ball joints, bushings, etc. cheaper from Rock Auto (great service BTW, have placed several orders recently for a Fox body project I'm working on). 

Also, subframe connectors are a must if you want it to handle.  Otherwise you have to overspring it to get the tires to stick. 

Most kits are composed of parts from China. I use nothing but MOOG suspension components to ensure quality parts. Bilstein shocks and Progressive Motorsports coil springs have proven to be solid performers.

IMO taking it all apart and NOT doing the Shelby drop is a mistake.  The bottom line is that Shelby fixed what Ford got wrong.  This adds positive caster which the car desperately needs (you move the UCA rearward and well as down), and greatly improves the camber curve resulting in more stable cornering and less need for static negative camber to compensate for the stock setup's terrible positive camber gain under cornering loads.  It also reduces bump steer. 

With subframe connectors I would go with stock GT rate front springs.  A set of KYB shocks at all 4 corners has served me well for years.

Ideally I'd swap to a 1" swap bar up front with no rear bar, or a 1-1/8 with a 7/8' rear bar.

For drag racing anything you do to improve handling is going to work against you.  BUT, how much will you realistically drag it?  If its going to spend 99% of its time on the street I'd care about the handling a lot more than wringing every last 0.10 second from your ET. 

I used KYB's;but, switched to Bilstein's.  Much happier. Solved a bouncy front end.

Brents65 - I converted my 65 V8 front end to the Mustang II front end and have several items from that conversion: 1" sway bar, export brace, Monte Carlo brace, the brace under engine, upper and lower control arms, strut arms, manual steering linkage, even the cut out shock towers.
Send me a PM if you're interested in any of these items.

Brents65 wrote:

Ok thanks Bob. I've got a pile of parts coming from CJ pony. Spent $1000 on parts and nothing for shipping! Can't beat that.

Enjoy your Chinese parts!
 

MS wrote:

Brents65 wrote:

Ok thanks Bob. I've got a pile of parts coming from CJ pony. Spent $1000 on parts and nothing for shipping! Can't beat that.

Enjoy your Chinese parts!
 

I pay extra and get the Chinese parts with "Made in USA" stamped on'em!!  They just seem to hold up better!!
6s6
 

So  what is the issue with KYB? Too stiff?

That's what came in this kit is excell g.  If I don't like them they are easy enough to change.