| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Some time back when I was looking for a better way to bleed hydraulic clutches I came across a youtube video showing the advantages of "reverse bleeding" For those of you not familiar with the term, when you reverse bleed you use a hand pump (like the one pictured below) and clear tube to pump the fluid into the system from the lowest point. Prior to attaching the tube to the bleeder you pump all the air out of the tube loosen the bleeder attach the tube to the bleeder then begin pumping. The idea is air is lighter than the fluid and bubbles want to rise so by filling the system from the bottom the fluid pushes ALL the air out. Works extremely well with hydraulic clutches, as by any other method, they tend to be a bit of a pain to bleed. I have used this technique on several hydraulic clutches myself and have recommended it to countless customers. Even though it works fantastically on clutches, I never tried it on brakes.
All that changed today. I replaced the MC on the galaxie and reworked the lines. I decided that since all the air in the system was near the MC that traditional bleeding was not a good idea. I only filled the MC half full when I bench bled it then I grabbed my hand pump and started with the rear calipers. Cool part was I could hear the bubbles coming out of the MC and when the sound stopped I moved on to the next bleeder. I was able to do all 4 bleeders in about 10 minutes, got all the air out the first time, AND was able to do it as a one man job. I may never bleed any other way again.
Offline
That looks like an oil pump can. Where can I get one?
Offline
Thats all it is. I took an oil pump can, unscrewed the tube and bought some tubing from the hardware store. These $5.00 in parts work better than my $50 power bleeder.
Offline
Definately comes under the KISS principle. I like it. Will try it next time I'm bleeding brakes.
Offline
No doubt that the reverse system does work very well as stated, but it is very important to use a clear tubing and monitor that the fluid going into the caliper/wheel cylinder is free from air bubbles.
A high quality pump is recommended as some of the less expensive oil can types induce air when operated.
The reverse method sure beats screaming at the wife to PUMP PUMP PUMP AND HOLD IT DOWN TILL I TELL YOU TO LET UP
Offline
I am rinsing out an old pump oiler now, I will take it to the track next weekend. That will make a cruddddddy job a lot easier. Thanks for the enlightenment Day!
Offline
I have been doing it this way for 25 years, learned that from working on John Deere Combines.
Couple things to note, brake fluid is an excellent paint remover and some of the oil pump cans have paint inside the can and it kinda dissolves and will pump into the brake system, I think you can imagine what the potential problems that can cause. and the other thing is that some pumps are made of metal and some are made of plastic, after a while the plastic ones don't work so well.
Offline
Do you think you really need to bench bleed the mc using this method? I like this method and I would think the 'push from the rear' would negate the need to bench bleed.
Greg Z
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |