Well after a long wait and a bit of unforeseen hurdles, long block is home and on a stand so I can finish some of the assembly of the bolt on parts. Might start a new thread for that as this one has become lengthy. A few pictures of the if I can from my tablet, thanks for all the assistance in getting me to this point.!

rbtconsultants wrote:

We just got our fresh 347 running in our 66 coupe. Has about 3 hours on it so far. Bought the 347 kit from Skip White Performance on Ebay. It comes balanced with the balancer and flexplate for around $1k. It has extra-height forged Wiseco pistons, so they have a nice thick top and easy to zero deck on a slightly decked block. We had our machine shop work a 90 302 roller block for us and install the rotating assembly into the short block. Total machine shop bill was about $900. They thought the rotating assembly was a nice kit.

I had Skip balance it with a flywheel (t5z transmission) for an extra $100, but that turned out to be a mistake because i wanted a flywheel for a 10.5" fox clutch and the flywheels Skip has are the 289/302 10" bolt pattern. They didn't drill the flywheel when they balanced it so i swapped it out for the fox flywheel we had on the old 289, so all is good.

We put edelbrock performer heads with 2.02 valves and scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, an edelbrock rpm intake, edelbrock 650 cfm thunder carb and a Comp magnum 270hr cam in it, with tri-y headers and 2 1/4" dual h-pipe exhaust.

No dyno on it yet, but it will spin the tires hard in 2nd if I hammer it while cruising at 25-30 mph in a straight line (9" 3.70 trac loc rear). Haven't really stretched its legs too much yet, but i can say it's a lot of fun. Probably going to need some better tires and maybe some Traction bars of some sort.

Recommended

Bob

I had originally considered a 347 build but opted out for one reason or another, high cost initially is what made me throw in the towel, but at this point cost differance is negligible if I start adding up receipts...... sounds like you did pretty well sourcing components on your build, good to hear.

I was inquiring on another thread about what would be the best intake manifold/carb to use on my engine and all i got was- " what's the acronym RTV stand for"........ I see you went with the Edlebrock RPM, I was leaning towards the performer, with a 600cfm carb not 100% sure yet though, might have to refer back to the builder to double check.

Anywho, thanks for the feedback, I see lots of J hooks in your future!
 

RTV= Room Temperature Vulcanizing  Good Trivia Question

TKOPerformance wrote:

The Performer doesn't have enough port for a 347, especially if you run any kind of RPM.  Run a Performer RPM Air Gap, that's the best manifold you can put on it.

For the carb. a 600 would work, but a 650 would be better, especially if you're going to run it above 5,500RPM.  Edlebrock carbs are good and have good street manners.  They are almost infinitely tunable, but you can get lost in the tuning options and often achieve the same thing six different ways.  The reason racers run Holleys isn't because they're so good; its because they're simple. 

Well its not actually a 347 if you remember but a 306, AFR heads 165, e303 comp cam. Was also reading good things about the weiand stealth.....

TKOPerformance wrote:

Ah, I didn't remember.  In that case a 600 is fine and I would still go with the RPM Air Gap.  Its the best dual plane intake for street use. 
 

Been a bit since I posted any progress, figured I would add on this thread to include the back story.  About to make an order on the aforementioned items, and have heard that the Air Gap (RPM) vs. Just the RPM  is a tight fit under the hood, almost not doable? Anyone have first hand experience with this? Still thinking 600/650 edlebrock elect. choke. I see these combo kits on Summit but they are pairing the intake w/ a 800cfm carb, any reason for that?

While I have been compiling my punch list of needed item to  finish this motor, car has been sitting at the same shop it was 9 months ago whilst the body guy slowly chips away at it, shaved some emblems, did a little rust repair, many coats of primer and block sanding and such. Panel alignment lately w/ doors/fenders, trunk lid and fender extensions and its been jammed with the original color silver smoke grey which is definitely growing on me. Have a few pictures on my phone, will see about trying to add them soon.

Now its finally about ready to get this motor/T5z installed (thanks Glenn at Rosehill performance) however still undecided on which clutch to use?

Other than that, as always thanks in advance for the input, always a valued group of minds and experience here, hope all are well and ready for 2017.

 

If you have a 65/66 I don't think an Air Gap will fit - too tall.  I have just a std Performer on my 315w and it barely fitted even with a dropped air cleaner.  Now I have added the FiTech fuel injection and I had to use one of those short air cleaners for fitment.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Adjustable motor mounts will buy you like another inch of hood clearance.  You can also forgo the carb spacer if needed.  PVC or booster can be plumbed directly into the manifold or carb. 

Lowercase, yeah its a 65.

TKO, I have been thinking about motor mounts and undecided as to which to go with, wanted to do the adjustable but figured I might not gain much w/o interference w/ the steering?

I am going to go with the RPM Non air gap w/650 Edlebrock carb, wondering if I need a low profile air cleaner?

I have a "knock-off RPM manifold" with a Edelbrock 600 carb.  It has the standerd size base and the low profile air filter/cleaner the 289 hi-po usta have. The clearance is......just enough...less than 1/2" I believe.
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