| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Hi , i am just having first fight with pinion and maybe some missing in tranlation.
I am using a solid spacer and shim .
When i try specers i Need to use a lot of force to tight it .
All the time leaving spacers i felt more resistence turning the pinion.
At this point i got some doubt because is needed to use the torque wrench between 13 and 33 inch\ pound .
Than later closing everything togheter with oil seal , the pinion nut should be torque at 175 foot \ pound .
This is what i dont understand , at the end is needed a High torque to close the pinion but before use only 33 inch pound torque for preload.
When i close to 175 foot the 33 inch pound preload dont go to waste ?
The torque wrench with dial indicator its a little expensive for 1 time use.
Does anybody got some diy wrench for this or some to build here ?
Thanks
Offline
The 13 to 33 inch/pound is the torque needed to rotate the pinion assembly, not the pinion nut torque. Torque the nut to 175 and then measure the amount of torque needed to spin the pinion shaft.
Another thought, since you're using solid spacers, go easy on the first tightening of the nut in case you don't have enough spacers installed.Torque to about 30 lbs/ft and measure preload. Don't want to damage anything.
Last edited by at (10/07/2016 1:46 PM)
Offline
If you still have it, measure the crush sleeve that came out of it. Then set the solid spacer up the same length + 0.005" That should get you close enough to start testing. Tighten down by hand and rotate it to make sure it isn't so tight the bearings are not going to turn, because torquing it like that could hurt the bearings. So long as it rotates and isn't a sloppy fit go ahead and take it to 175 lbs/ft. then check your bearing preload with an in/lb torque wrench.
Offline
at wrote:
The 13 to 33 inch/pound is the torque needed to rotate the pinion assembly, not the pinion nut torque. Torque the nut to 175 and then measure the amount of torque needed to spin the pinion shaft.
Another thought, since you're using solid spacers, go easy on the first tightening of the nut in case you don't have enough spacers installed.Torque to about 30 lbs/ft and measure preload. Don't want to damage anything.
After talking with a friend i have cleared the wrench question and find the right one with dial indicator to test 33 inch .
Trying to close the nut i Need a large amount of force only close together .
Much more than 30 lbs foot .
I starter with all shims and spacer and than leaved 1 at time .
I reach a good point with 3 shim of 0,002
When leaved another 1 it become little hard to rotate . still spin with a little force by hand . but to reach this i got to use an impact drill . not happy about it .
I got broken the vise to close it
Offline
TKOPerformance wrote:
If you still have it, measure the crush sleeve that came out of it. Then set the solid spacer up the same length + 0.005" h.
This is not possible cause there is too much difference .
I try to step this way but the solid one is higher than used one .
I prefer start with all shim and spacer and decrease .
Now 2 shim of 0,002 is the best for force\ free spin .
But to reach that i got use impact drill . i know is not the best
No way to do by hand wrench .
Offline
You need to hold the yoke. Take a piece of steel bar stock and drill holes in it to match the holes in the yoke for the u-bolts. Something like 3-4' long and 1/4" thick. Use that to hold the yoke still while you torque the but down. Otherwise you have to use an impact wrench, but you risk ramming the bearings into the races and causing damage if the spacer is too short.
Offline
TKOPerformance wrote:
You need to hold the yoke. Take a piece of steel bar stock and drill holes in it to match the holes in the yoke for the u-bolts. Something like 3-4' long and 1/4" thick. Use that to hold the yoke still while you torque the but down. Otherwise you have to use an impact wrench, but you risk ramming the bearings into the races and causing damage if the spacer is too short.
Yes i suppose that impact w. Is not the best . i use it at low force just to close it a little than i use the torque w.
Only for this time ( next week i will have the dial wrench to test what i have set ),
I build a " scale " or better a lever with specs torque and pound converted into centimeters and grams for my better use.
With a aluminum L bar fixed to the axel i put the right amount of weight at a calculated distance from center nut .
Moving the weight i can see at which distance starts spinning .
With some math and a lever i think i arrived at right spot.
Thats corner momentum
Closed to 175 foot pound . i will check with right tool next week and i will see.
Now i think i have set the preload at 25 inch pound .
the suggested range is between 13 and 33.
Thanks ! Until now all is funny and make my brain works .... So its ok !
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |