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10/09/2016 5:33 PM  #1


1968 coupe 289 COOLING AND Factory Specs?

Hi all.  I've recently been working on my neighbours 68.  It is all original, he's owned it for 30+ years and as of this week, he said "I don't remember the last time it ran like this" (in a very good way)

I do have a question however, his cooling system doesn't seem to show the flow on his Rad Cap Port.   His water pump was changed by another mechanic 2 weeks ago, and I changed his upper rad hose and bypass, but after waiting the flow doesn't show and it even began to rise and overflow. 


I know the first thing to check is the Thermostat, just before I change more things and take the time to do that, I am curious if Mustang People would be aware of any other common problems that would cause this.  Or of there is any potential for other blockages. 

Thabks,
Jeff

 

10/09/2016 5:44 PM  #2


Re: 1968 coupe 289 COOLING AND Factory Specs?

He was also wondering if there is a way to learn more factory specs, without opening or dissaembling anything.  For example : transmission type (I assume C4); Rear Diff Gearing;

Lastly, does a 351W Camshaft slide right in and work on 289???

     Thread Starter
 

10/09/2016 6:09 PM  #3


Re: 1968 coupe 289 COOLING AND Factory Specs?

Hey Jeff,

If you have one of those infrared thermometers, let the car idle with the cap on, and take temp readings on the thermostat housing, upper and lower radiator hoses, and various places on the radiator.  That will help see what is going on, temp wise.

Regarding factory specs, it the drivers door is original to the car, and if the id tag is still riveted to the door near the latch, you can enter those numers on an internet "mustang decoder" website, and he can learn a few things.  Being a 68, he could order a Marti report, online, and learn exactly what the car came with.

 

10/09/2016 7:20 PM  #4


Re: 1968 coupe 289 COOLING AND Factory Specs?

That's a great idea Tim with the thermo-thingy.  I never thought of that.   So if upper is hot and lower is not (visa versa) what would either of these typically indicate?


Also, do all ford pumps circulate the same direction? Or is it possible the impeller is spinning in the wrong direction depending on the year/cast of the pump?

     Thread Starter
 

10/10/2016 8:11 AM  #5


Re: 1968 coupe 289 COOLING AND Factory Specs?

M1Mustang69 wrote:

That's a great idea Tim with the thermo-thingy. I never thought of that. So if upper is hot and lower is not (visa versa) what would either of these typically indicate?


Also, do all ford pumps circulate the same direction? Or is it possible the impeller is spinning in the wrong direction depending on the year/cast of the pump?

If the upper hose is warm enough to indicate thermostat has opened, and the radiator doesn't warm up all over, there could be a restriction in the radiator.  This could be the case if the radiator has not been flushed, and the car is not driven long enough, often enough, to keep substantial coolant flow.  Crud accumulates in the lower part of the radiator and restricts flow.

There are serpentine belted Ford water pumps that are "reverse rotation" water pumps.  Who knows what pump the parts house gave to the person that installed the pump....  If the mechanic that replaced the water pump was kind enough to show you his receipt for the pump he purchased from his supplier, you would have a good idea of what pump it is.
 

Last edited by TimC (10/10/2016 8:16 AM)

 

10/10/2016 9:38 AM  #6


Re: 1968 coupe 289 COOLING AND Factory Specs?

Is he complaining about over heating or are you just looking for something to worry about. The water level will rise as it heats up and you'll see little or no flow at idle. Did you try revving it to check for flow? If it's not overheating, I'd move on to something else.
.
.
 


You can lead a horse to water, but you can't get him drunk
 

10/10/2016 11:42 AM  #7


Re: 1968 coupe 289 COOLING AND Factory Specs?

Well I only know on my 69 351W I can see very good flow at idle (modified with mild cam).

I changed his bypass because it was kinked, someone used the reg hose, not manufactured bent) and I changed the upper cause it was ballooning. 

He recognizes slight over-heating after extended idle, usually at higher external temperatures.  I assumed the bypass would rectify this, but his is when I Noticed the lack of flow from the rad port and hen the slow rising and overflow.

     Thread Starter
 

Board footera


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