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I'm trying to solve a significant left & right turning radius variance on my 65. I'm no engineer, but did fine with my geometry.....
I measure my center link at 25 3/8" from center of pitman arm attachment point to the center of the idler arm attachment point. The distance between the tie rod holes is 18 9/16", center to center.
I measure my pitman arm and idler arm lengths at about 5.25" center to center.
Can anyone verify or dispute these measurements?
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I'm dealing with exactly the same issue. The pitman arm was contacting the headmen header when turning left. I could get about one turn out of it to the left. MS suggested adjusting my header with a long pry bar. This helped significantly but there is notably less turning angle than turning right. Have you verified the bump stop is not contacting the spindle when turning? If converting the steering these may need to be trimmed. Beyond that I am patiently waiting with you for the magic pill to fix this.
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I get 25-1/2" & 5-1/4". The tie rod holes are closer together on my 69.
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rpm - Thanks for the measurements. Confirms I have the right center link on the car.
Brents65 - 2 summers ago I replaced about every front steering & suspension part, and had the car aligned (twice). As the car steered and tracked ok (except for the asymmetrical turns) I drove it. I did not want to mess with the alignment now, when replacing the steering box, so I did not take a close look at my tie rod ends, until last night. When I looked at the tie rods, the alignment shop has the pass side adjusted all the way collapsed, and the drivers side all the way extended. It seems to have the toe at an acceptable setting, but the consequence is that the center link is not centered (and the idler arm & pitman arm are not parallel to the frame rails) when the wheels & spindles are pointing straight. I need to adjust both tie rod sleeves by equal turns, to center the center link between the frame rails when the box is centered. That should allow the box and pitman arm to move the centered link equal distances left & right, and the spindles should be hitting the stops when the box reaches full travel, both left & right. With the center link off center, I only get full travel in one direction. I will need to re-clock the steering wheel when I'm done.
A couple of years back when I was converting the 66 to V8 stuff, my first attempt was with 67 Mustang spindles. To get the wheels to align, I had to shorten the tie rod ends (hack saw/grinder), and shorten the adjusting sleeves to get the alignment anywhere close to where I could roll the car around the garage/driveway. I then found a set of stock 65/66 spindles to get the correct geometry. I do not know if you may have to trim your tie rods when using Granada spindles.
Last edited by TimC (10/11/2016 9:38 AM)
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Tim...when I first read your complaint I thought, "wonder if the ends are way off center? Naw!" I find this sort of stuff happening with "expert work" more and more often, Tim.
BB
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When I get back under it I will measure and try to figure it out. Right now I'm getting ready for winter...again....
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I have 25 1/2" from pitman arm center to idler arm center
3 3/8" LH inner tie rod to pitman
3 1/2" RH inner to idler arm
18 5/8" inner tie rod to inner tie rod
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