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12/12/2016 7:35 PM  #1


Which welder.....go!

New to welding, in fact learning as we speak.  I am in search of feedback on which welder will fit my needs.  I recently bough a 1960 Ford F100 which will require some welding.  Just don't want to have buyers remorse, but I also don't want to go over board either.  I know this is a loaded question.  Kinda like EFI or Carb!!!! lol 


1966 Mustang Fastback K-Code,289,T-5, 9-inch rear with 3.50 gears.
 

12/12/2016 7:47 PM  #2


Re: Which welder.....go!

Depends on what you are trying to weld. Thin metal, thick metal, aluminum, Stainless Steel....... Stick, MIG, TIG, Gas..... I have two welders. Stick and the smallest wattage Lincoln MIG I could buy so I can weld Sheet Metal on cars without immediately blowing through the metal.

 

12/12/2016 7:48 PM  #3


Re: Which welder.....go!

BTW there are some really good YouTube pages out there with some great welding tips. One I like is Welding Tips and Tricks.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqq70AnPkj4-UApS_m_6mPw
 

 

12/12/2016 7:49 PM  #4


Re: Which welder.....go!

Ya I've pondered this question. Won't be welding any alum. Most of the welding will be on this truck. Sheet metal and anything on the frame I'm sure.


1966 Mustang Fastback K-Code,289,T-5, 9-inch rear with 3.50 gears.
     Thread Starter
 

12/12/2016 7:54 PM  #5


Re: Which welder.....go!

MIG will do all of that. Use your lowest settings for the thin stuff. Practice on some test pieces until you can keep from blowing holes in the metal.
 

 

12/12/2016 8:03 PM  #6


Re: Which welder.....go!

I was in the same boat as you last year.  I did a ton of research and wound up buying a Miller 211.  You can run it on 120v or 240v.  I got it on sale for about $800 and it came with a free spool gun.  I still need to learn to weld though. LOL!

https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/millermatic-211-mig-welder-m30024

 

12/12/2016 8:19 PM  #7


Re: Which welder.....go!

Don't limit yourself with what you buy.  You might not plan on welding aluminum now, but things change and it would be best to anticipate that.  I have a Lincoln 135 MIG (110V) that I use for anything 3/16" and under.  I can run flux core wire or shielding gas (I run gas).  With an inexpensive liner and a different gas & wire it will weld aluminum.  Stainless just requires a different gas (tri mix), and wire.  This welder does most of what I need.  I don't remember what I paid for it, but I've had it for over a decade now and it still works like new.

I also have a Miller inverter that I can use for stick welding and could use to run a TIG if I ever buy the kit for it.  This is a 220V machine that can really throw some amperage.  When I need to weld 1/4" or thicker material I use this.  With the right rods it can weld almost anything (I have even welded aluminum castings with it quite successfully).  It can weld sheetmetal with very thin rods if you really know what you're doing, but I wouldn't recommend it for the novice.  I'm sure this thing was super expensive too, but I got it for free.

Get some scrap and learn what a good weld looks like before welding anything important.  HP Books Welder's Handbook is a great guide to various types of welding and how to properly weld various materials. 

If you want to really get into auto body a spot welder is awesome and saves a ton of time.  I bough one from Harbor Freight.  Its quite heavy, but once you get the hand of using it panel replacement is a breeze.  It runs regular 110V too.  Works on mild steel, and as I just discovered, stainless too. 

 

12/12/2016 9:58 PM  #8


Re: Which welder.....go!

Go to Tractor Supply and look at the Hobart MIG welders. Miller owns Hobart, so the Hobart welders tend to be a bit cheaper than the Millers. Hobarts are good welders as are Lincolns. Millers tend to be about a half step up.

The new inverter based Miller 211 is so small and light it is hard to believe it is a high quality welding machine, but the 211 is the benchmark all the DIY welders are measured against.

 

12/12/2016 10:46 PM  #9


Re: Which welder.....go!

If $$ is not a HUGE problem.....buy a nice TIG set-up and it weld  all metals BEAUTIFULLY!
It takes two hands to TIG but it can weld a soda can all the way up to 3/8" or bigger. No slag...not much smoke...not much noise... They are great!!(Can you tell I really like TIG welding?!)
The torch(es) and Tungsten and cups and collets are all re useable butt  are not cheap to begin with.
If you can solder an electrical joint...you're half way there to TIG welding! If you can Oxy-acetalene you can TIG!!
You can have a Hundai......or a Cadillac.........
6sal6 


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

12/13/2016 1:23 AM  #10


Re: Which welder.....go!

Bought my first MIG, an entry level 110 volt Miller years ago, and after two weeks of screwing with it and it's lousy duty cycle, I took it back and traded it for a Lincoln 125.  That was 25 years ago, and that little puppy is still working trouble free.  For the past ten years I have been using a Lincoln 135 with the same results.  I am a self taught amateur but have used the 135 almost daily.  Just installed my sixth twelve pound spool of wire.  My experience has been mostly with light sheet metal and square tubing.  I prefer the .025 Lincoln wire, as it seems to "bite"well.  In my untrained hands the .030 and larger diameters weld faster but with less penetration.  Most welding supplies in my area do not carry Lincoln wire and will want to sell you their brand of .023 wire.  If you choose to use the .023, get a proper .023 tip for your gun.  They tell me that the .023 wire can be used in my .025 tip, but that leads to wasting the tip due to burnback.  Using Lincoln wire (order on line), I have been using the same tip for ten years now.  I bought my Lincoln 135 as a display model from Lowes for $230.00.  Other brands have their followers for sure, but IMHO, there will be no buyer remorse with a Lincoln.  The little Weldpac 100 might be too small for your needs.
Best,
Al

Last edited by Al Newman (12/13/2016 1:23 AM)


Classic cars are full of surprises and almost none of them are good ones!
 

12/13/2016 9:32 AM  #11


Re: Which welder.....go!

The best thing I did was to find a local welding supply that would spend some time and talk to me about what I wanted to do. I buy all my supplies there and they are great at helping when I need it. I did buy my welders there since their price was same as ordering plus shipping. I always get great service and they can find anything I need and will tell me if there is a cheaper way to get it. These guys sell Lincoln and Miller as well as the industrial stuff. Like Al, I have a Lincoln 100 that just won't quit. I also have a Ranger 9 engine driven unit that I use for all the big stuff and TIG since it has a TIG module. I also agree with Al about finding Lincoln wire is worth the effort. It works so much better than anything else I have been force to use. My welding supply keeps a roll just for me. I find it is less likely to develop a layer of rust from sitting in my not always heated garage. That layer of rust makes the wire feed inconsistently and that will mess up a weld in a hurry.

 

12/13/2016 9:59 AM  #12


Re: Which welder.....go!

Al Newman wrote:

I have been using the same tip for ten years now.  .
Best,
Al

 
Outstanding! That's gotta be some kind of record.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

12/13/2016 2:06 PM  #13


Re: Which welder.....go!

Yeah, I found the tip dip is beneficial when doing overhead a lot.

 

12/13/2016 2:56 PM  #14


Re: Which welder.....go!

Good lighting and most importantly good vision are my requirements for laying down a nice bead. I have a 14 year old Miller 175 and use strictly gas with it, my son has a yet older Hobart and gets excellent welds with flux core. He must have the right combination of wire type, size and settings down pat.
 I love my HF auto shield with adjustable shade settings.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

12/13/2016 3:04 PM  #15


Re: Which welder.....go!

Definitely the Miller 211.  It is my third MIG welder.  Started out with Sears, no gas.  Moved up to Lincoln with gas.  This new Miller is so much better.  It will make a better welder out of you.  Set the metal thickness and go to welding.  Just like operating an automated caulking machine.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

12/13/2016 4:35 PM  #16


Re: Which welder.....go!

If you want to buy a really good machine you cannot go wrong with a Miller, Lincoln, or a Hobart. Or maybe even a Esab.  If you are wanting a good entry level welder, off brand wise, I highly recommend the Klutch 140si from Northern Tool.  It welds very nicely.  If you were in the StL area, I would let you come over and try it out.  In fact if anyone in the Stl area wants to try it out, feel free to come over and weld in my floorpan.  (I have been limited by eye issues, but that is another story for another day.)   Back to the subject at hand.   I just went and looked, ant this welder is on sale rignt now, and in the holiday season, they are also offering double gift cards, Which would make this welder a tad over 300.  I tried this welder out for someone, I liked it so much, I bought one.  I also have a tired old Lincoln weld pac which is 80 amps, which it basically replaced, as it just didnt weld right.  My other welder is a Clarke EN 180 which is a 220 volt welder.  Not sure they make those anymore, but it is also a darn good welder for an offbrand.  It was made in Italy.  Biggest drawback was the short Mig lead.   If it were me.   Id probably go with in this order if price is less of an issue.  The Miller, as stated above, The Lincoln 140C,  The Lincoln 140 model available at the big box stores. *yes there is a difference*  and next on my list would be this Klutch.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631880_200631880

You will be hard pressed to find a bad review of this welder on the internet.  I like that it has a spot weld timer, that shuts it down, and can make your spots more consistent.  Overall a GREAT welder for the price.  


If multiple things can go wrong, the one that will go wrong will be the one that causes the most damage.
 

12/13/2016 6:35 PM  #17


Re: Which welder.....go!

Do not know how to compare 110 vs 220 volt welders and have no experience with 220 units.  As for tip longevity, I am not good enough to weld upside down; therefore my tip is not overly challenged.  The 110 units  I have used seem to me to be vastly more versatile spacewise than the 220 units.  I would like to have a 220 unit, however.   Based on my good experience with Lincoln, I would lean toward them for a 220. unit
Best,
Al


Classic cars are full of surprises and almost none of them are good ones!
 

12/13/2016 8:12 PM  #18


Re: Which welder.....go!

220 welds smoother than 110, but on thin material you wouldn't notice a difference.  Where it makes a difference is when the material gets beyond 1/8"-3/16".  The 220V machines also tend to be higher quality meant for a shop willing to run power wire for them, etc.  This translates into increased life, longer duty cycle, etc.  But, it also translates into increased cost.  If you're mostly welding thin stuff 1/8" and below a good 110V MIG will serve you very well. 

As for tip life, I spray the MIG tip with anti-spatter and the tips last pretty long, even welding at all kinds of goofy angles, with blowback, etc.  It just forms a barrier that keeps the spatter from sticking.  The only time I've had to replace tips was when I didn't routinely spray the nozzle down.  Then I'd get some slag or spatter stick the wire to the tip and it wouldn't break lose so the tip was junk. 

 

12/14/2016 3:40 AM  #19


Re: Which welder.....go!

TKOPerformance wrote:

If you want to really get into auto body a spot welder is awesome and saves a ton of time.  I bough one from Harbor Freight.  Its quite heavy, but once you get the hand of using it panel replacement is a breeze.  It runs regular 110V too.  Works on mild steel, and as I just discovered, stainless too. 

Haven't tried this myself, but it seems you can also spotweld aluminum with a regular spotwelder:




 

 

12/14/2016 6:05 AM  #20


Re: Which welder.....go!

I've got some thin aluminum lying around.  I'll experiment over the weekend and see if I can get it to work. 

 

12/14/2016 10:04 AM  #21


Re: Which welder.....go!

TKOPerformance wrote:

I've got some thin aluminum lying around.  I'll experiment over the weekend and see if I can get it to work. 

I also have a 110 volt spot welder.  It makes decent welds for what it is, but Hakan posted this video before, and I tried to spot weld aluminum with it.  Just as stated in the video, it does not work with 110.  All it did was get hot.  
 


If multiple things can go wrong, the one that will go wrong will be the one that causes the most damage.
 

12/14/2016 11:59 AM  #22


Re: Which welder.....go!

red351 wrote:

Welding aluminum is another expensive add on kit and one more bottle that could be added to existing mig welders, but I could never get that approved by my wife.

I didn't tell my wife about the additional bottle and I was actually after some practise able to make decent aluminum welds with my 220V ESAB MIG just by changing the gas bottle and the wire. Over here we are spoiled with 220V as our household current available everywhere.
 

 

12/14/2016 1:51 PM  #23


Re: Which welder.....go!

Hornman & Rudi referred to the Hobart.  I picked up the Hobart 140 awhile back, and have run a few spools through it.  Works like a charm with the argon mix bottle.  It has been up to every task we have thrown at it.  They are available on ebay from NorthernTool for $489 shipped.

 

12/14/2016 3:12 PM  #24


Re: Which welder.....go!

The issue with cheapo welders is the plastic wire feed unit. Brand names, Miller, Hobart,  etc use aluminum for that part which is much more stable  than recycled water bottles.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

12/14/2016 3:42 PM  #25


Re: Which welder.....go!

red351 wrote:

ESAB has some high end migs and I looked at some used trade in. Wow they really hold their value. I tried to see if I could push AL wire through and just get a bottle. Well that didn't work.... Yes our electric providers like 110V. It keeps our electric bills higher.

I of course created a couple of bird nests of alu mig wire before sorting the wire feed settings out. As ESAB is a Swedish brand it's a rather obvious choice in my case. There's a Finish brand of welders called Kemppi that's also is quite popular and common here, but of course it has to do with local availability.
 

 

Board footera


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