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Hey everyone. Lookin for a quick explination on what fits and what is needed.
I have a 69 with a modified 351W. My T5 blew 3rd gear.
I can put back in a stock T5 to buy time but Im considering a tranny from a 93/94, which I hear is stronger. Do I require anything else?
if I go Tremec, T45 or whatever else, do I require anything else?
Many Thanks Everyone, As Always!
Jeff
(Modern Driveline T5 Hydraulic Conversion Currently Used with 88 GT T5 Trans)
Last edited by M1Mustang69 (7/09/2013 8:19 PM)
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Contact Glen Buzek bout upgrading your T-5 internals, or see how much fun MS is having with his Tremec installation. YMMV.
Tubo
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M1 you probablly want a pre 94 T5 if you go with that. The 94/95 T5's have a longer input shaft, 3/4 in. You would need to change the input shaft or bellhousing if you use a 94 or 95.
Last edited by wsinsle (7/10/2013 9:21 AM)
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Can I cut 3/4" off?
Is there a spacer plate made? Are the 93-95 T5's stronger/greater power rating?
What about if I go with a Tremec, do I have further modding?
Also, what if I go with a 99/00 trans, is that possible? One from a Camaro or dodge?
Thanks guys, much obliged
Last edited by M1Mustang69 (7/10/2013 6:13 AM)
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I am in the process of installing a TKO600 in my 66 Mustang right now. While your 69 Mustang has a little more room in the drive tunnel than the 65/66, there is still not quite enough. The floors on the car are the same, but the floor support crossmember on your 69 is thinner to give more tranny room.
I am installing a 67-70 floor support crossmember to get more room, but I still have to relocate it aft of the normal location and will have to cut and rebuild it at the top to clear the tranny. This is all so I can install the transmission and engine at the proper angle to get the correct drivetrain geometry and pinion angles.
You can buy TKO crossmembers to just bolt in the larger transmission, but they position the tail of the tranny alot lower than the optimum position,
So, if you want the larger tranny and want to get it right, some floor and floor beam surgery is necessary. Then you add in different tranny yoke and mounts, plus different clutch etc.
I ran a 400HP 351W in the car for years with no transmission problems. I would surmise that your third gear problem is more from wear and tear than from exceeding the transmission's capabilities. Usually if the torque is exceeded, worse things than third gear will get your attention. If you are around the 400HP mark or lower and a re not running super sticky tires or slicks, I would not hesitate to run a T5, maybe with some beefing up as Glen can do at Rosehill Performance Parts in Houston.
As others stated, the 94 and newer T5 has a longer input shaft and should be avoided. You might be surprised how reasonable Glen can rebuild your existing tranny and add some tougher internals.
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X2 on sticking with the original T-5. A "world class" should work well and if you have access to a cheap stock transmission, throw it in and have a stout one built with ratios that will take advantage of your engine and your rear gears. If everything else works like clutch, shifter postion, etc., I wouldn't change to the longer input shaft version or a TKO. I went through the TKO mod on my car and to get it at the correct driveline angle requires a lot of work.
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The 91 throught 93 are the strongest T5's that will fit the configuration you already have. If you buy a used one of these, you don't know what you are getting. Like the other guys say, if you rebuild yours to better specs, at least you will know what you have.
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Steve I've been looking at the TKO 600 to go behind a warmed up 390 in a '67coupe any pointers at all would be appreciated from what I gather the T-5 won't handle the torque of a FE, this is a scratch build and am currently replacing floorpans so tunnel mods would be easy at this point. Oh yeah any one have a source for inexpensive TKO's. Thanks
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I had no issues with my TKO 600 with a 428 in my 68. I did use the the TCP motor mounts which help a lot.
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Commish, what driveline angles did you wind up with?
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I have about 6 degrees. No binding or noise.
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Is that to mean the tail is pointing down 6 degrees as referenced from the frame rail?
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It is the downward angle of the driveshaft.
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bulletbirdman wrote:
Steve I've been looking at the TKO 600 to go behind a warmed up 390 in a '67coupe any pointers at all would be appreciated from what I gather the T-5 won't handle the torque of a FE, this is a scratch build and am currently replacing floorpans so tunnel mods would be easy at this point. Oh yeah any one have a source for inexpensive TKO's. Thanks
If you do go with a TKO order it with the short input shaft - most good suppliers will quote this option. You will probably have to switch to a different disk to match the splines but everything else should be a good fit. I swapped a large-spline close ratio toploader out for a TKO in my Cobra and the clutch disk was the only thing I had to change. I was running a Lakewood bellhousing but an original bell should be OK.
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Commish, did you have to modify the tunnel?
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When we did the tremec 3550 swap on 65 2+2 many years ago, had to notch the tunnel opening on the right side and modify the crap out of the conversion crossmember to fit. We had to play with driveline angles, but once you get the two to cancel out, you are fine. 3 degrees is optimal, but sometimes you have to go to 6 or 7. Worked like a champ. Put 1 in a 68 cougar no problems at all. If you want a t5 check out g force transmissions in cleona pa, near me. They have many optionsbon bulletproof t5's( make em for NASCAR even).
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The only mod was some slight trimming on the shifter hole. Again, I used the TCP motor mounts on my 428 FE.This lowers and changes the engine angle to allow the tranny to fit.
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Thats good news as I've got enough welding to do without making more on the old horse.
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My problem is I cannot lower the engine because of the TCP rack & pinion that already interferes with the oil pan on the 351W.
No turning back now...
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I am also using a TCP rack, only mod was to clearance one of the header tubes on the drivers side to clear the tie rod.
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