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Recently developed a problem where my 289 runs for about 30 seconds then slowly decelerates to shutdown in about 10 more seconds. Have replaced points, plugs, condenser, coil and fuel pump. Totally frustrated; can't determine if this an electrical or a fuel problem. Any ideas ?
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Is it carburated or Fuel Injected?? Have you checked fuel filters?? is it possible there is debris in the tank floating around plugging up the fuel supply line
Last edited by terry (7/16/2013 7:35 PM)
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Thanks terry. Carburated and fuel filter is new. I think the fuel tank is clean, but I haven't dropped the tank yet
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Try running it with the gas cap not installed. If no change, check the float level in the carb. If that doesn't change anything, replace the fuel pump if you are fairly sure there is no trash being pumped to the carb.
Usually a trashed-up carb doesn't run well at all, even for a little while. That is my reason for suspecting the pump. Of course, a diagnostic pressure gauge can be installed and the engine cranked to read the gauge, but by the time you round up a gauge and more hoses, you could have spent $15 for a new pump and installed it.
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MustangSteve wrote:
Try running it with the gas cap not installed. If no change, check the float level in the carb. If that doesn't change anything, replace the fuel pump if you are fairly sure there is no trash being pumped to the carb.
Usually a trashed-up carb doesn't run well at all, even for a little while. That is my reason for suspecting the pump. Of course, a diagnostic pressure gauge can be installed and the engine cranked to read the gauge, but by the time you round up a gauge and more hoses, you could have spent $15 for a new pump and installed it.
Already replaced fuel pump, ran w gas cap off and checked carb floats.
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Thanks. Already replaced fuel pump, ran w gas tank cover off and checked carb floats.
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Sounds like fuel delivery. Try squirting gas down the carb while its running. An old ketchup bottle works good for that. If you can keep it running this way then you know it's not getting fuel..
Last edited by Derek (7/16/2013 8:43 PM)
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If you have a timing light, set it up and fire it up as soon as it starts. If it is electrical it will stop flashing prior to shutting down. If its still flashing when it quits or starts to die, probably fuel. I would suspect the line from the tank or blockage at the tank. After it shuts down you get some gravity feed through the obstruction which is enough to get it started again. You have replaced most of the ignition system so other than a failure or overheating of the starter switch I can't see what could be wrong on that end.
How long does it have to sit before it can be started again or do you hit the key immediately and it starts again and dies?
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Any chance you have the wrong type of fuel line somewhere behind the fuel pump and the hose is collapsing shut.
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When does this happen? You don't say if it is with a cold or warmed engine. If it is when the engine is cold, I'd suspect the choke setting. If it's when the engine has warmed up, see all of the above.
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Everyone,
Thanks for all the good suggestions. Problem solved. I became suspicious of the brand new points and condenser (made in China - $15) that I installed yesterday. Bought a new higher quality set (made in Mexico - $30) and the car starts and runs perfect. The condenser was the problem !
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Thanks for the update, good information to keep stored in the back of my head. Problem is there's a lot of stuff lost back there.
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Yes, thanks for posting the fix. It has been so long since I have owned anything with points that I never even think to consider them. Good reminder.
If you have a very slight amount of oil on the points contacts, like from your feeler gauges, it will make them not work. A short burst of brake cleaner will usually clean them off. Any chance the $15 set was just oily? Or was it actually the condenser?
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The points were clean. Swapped out an older set for a test before I replaced the condenser.
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Good to know. I have only had one condenser fail on me. It would run for a few minutes, then you would get a huge backfire, then the car would die. After cooling off a few minutes, you could drive until the same thing happened. It sure is fun to diagnose stuff that has different failure modes!
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The moral of the story is "always buy quality parts" !!~
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