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Hi, My 289 fastback 66 under resto had some cut and paste with wiring and alternator in these last years.
Now i will put ac kit , elect fan and stereo ,( i dont need a big watts stereo.)
As suggested from ac kit , to improve to 100 amps .
For what i can see i got a motorcraft 1g with 3 wire that in the best option give 45 amps.
and a 2 wire regulator / rectifier that has nothing in common with oem.
As stated they suggest to use a 3 wire if i want run oem gauges and waringflasher / ammeter
Please can someone tell me which is a right one to choose from ?
I am a little confused with 1g 3 g one or three wire internal or external.
i have found a lot of internal regulated or 1 wire but not a lot of 3 wire ext reg 100 amps.
thank you ! help is really appreciate
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I'd go with a Ford 3-G and a voltmeter.
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2nd on the 3G.
they come in 100a and 130a models
there are one wire 3Gs available and also kits to upgrade the 3 wire 3G to a one wire.
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3G is the way to go, but I would install it as a 3 wire. You lose fine voltage output control when you bypass the feedback loop, which is what they do to convert a 3 wire to a 1 wire.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
3G is the way to go, but I would install it as a 3 wire. You lose fine voltage output control when you bypass the feedback loop, which is what they do to convert a 3 wire to a 1 wire.
Question : the 3G is bigger and i got to change brackets ?
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i have found this :
Please let me know if is right . i can ask for oem 3 wire and add the external regulator right ?
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You can buy any number of 3G Ford alternators at Amazon or Rock auto and the 3G has an internal regulator. Connect it like this:
Be happy.
BB
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Alessandro wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
3G is the way to go, but I would install it as a 3 wire. You lose fine voltage output control when you bypass the feedback loop, which is what they do to convert a 3 wire to a 1 wire.
Question : the 3G is bigger and i got to change brackets ?
There are different mounting for Ford 3G alternators. You need one with mounting holes 180 deg apart. Of those there are at least 2 different size alternators. The larger one will not fit your 289 mounting bracket, the smaller one will. If memory serves me, I used a smaller one from a 94 Mustang with 302 motor (5.0).
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Alessandro wrote:
i have found this :
Please let me know if is right . i can ask for oem 3 wire and add the external regulator right ?
Hi Alessandro, I would not use the one from Tuffstuff, it is a 1st gen alternator with internal upgrades. It has an external fan compared to the 3-g which has an internal fan and regulator. I don't think that your existing original wiring will handle that one if you intend to plug and play it.
The 3g needs some upgraded wiring but will give as much output at idle as the original alternator at full output.
The one I used is like this one from RockAuto ( Remy 92313), about $135 CDN It is a short eared one used on V-6's.
This alternator can be clocked to put the plug sockets wher you need them, I did.
,1998,mustang,3.8l+v6,1304468,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412
You will have to use an different adjuster and bracket as the O/E one will not work.
I made one up very similar this from Summit just because I could and they cost about $70 USD.
I also found that the original ammeter is basicly worthless, thats why I suggest a voltmeter.
Ater I got mine I decided that it was too dull so I did this to it.
Before I reasembled it, the stator and rotor were painted with "Glyptal" a coating used to prevent corrosion in the electrical industry.
Here it is installed.
I hope this helps!
Last edited by Rudi (4/25/2017 2:15 PM)
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I know I'm going against the grain here, but I have delco 10si alternators on my engines and will be in 3 wire configuration. Not that I am against 3g, or keeping it Ford, nor is the hp drain a concern for me...LOL, but all those amps do take hp, and each individual cars needs electrically vary. Plus the 10si does look a lot more period correct, and cleans up the wiring just the same, if that is a concern. All the fancy chrome is available for those alternators too, if that is what a person is into. I think the si series alternators, and the saginaw pumps are two of the better things the "other" guys did. Here is a picture of my Galaxie engine, put together with used/recycled parts I had aquired over the years, with the exception of the cam/lifters, and air cleaner. I the plastic fan is no longer there. I switched it out for a metal fan. Wish i had a picture of it with it on there.
Last edited by Greg B (4/25/2017 6:27 PM)
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Bullet Bob wrote:
You can buy any number of 3G Ford alternators at Amazon or Rock auto and the 3G has an internal regulator. Connect it like this:
Be happy.
BB
Thanks , but teach me why AC kit suggestions is external regulated ?
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Rudi wrote:
Alessandro wrote:
i have found this :
Please let me know if is right . i can ask for oem 3 wire and add the external regulator right ?Hi Alessandro, I would not use the one from Tuffstuff, it is a 1st gen alternator with internal upgrades. It has an external fan compared to the 3-g which has an internal fan and regulator. I don't think that your existing original wiring will handle that one if you intend to plug and play it.
The 3g needs some upgraded wiring but will give as much output at idle as the original alternator at full output.
The one I used is like this one from RockAuto ( Remy 92313), about $135 CDN It is a short eared one used on V-6's.
This alternator can be clocked to put the plug sockets wher you need them, I did.
,1998,mustang,3.8l+v6,1304468,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412
You will have to use an different adjuster and bracket as the O/E one will not work.
I made one up very similar this from Summit just because I could and they cost about $70 USD.
I also found that the original ammeter is basicly worthless, thats why I suggest a voltmeter.
Ater I got mine I decided that it was too dull so I did this to it.
Before I reasembled it, the stator and rotor were painted with "Glyptal" a coating used to prevent corrosion in the electrical industry.
Here it is installed.
I hope this helps!
Thanks Rudy please tell me if is a small body or large body alt ?
In the dash you changed the ammeter to voltmeter ? Are There voltmeter for mustang dash ready to bolt or i got to adapt something ?
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I would guess that mine is a large body alternator, it is the stock size for a 96 V-6 Mustang
As for a voltmeter that will replace the stock ammeter, I did see one in a magazine once but I don't have any particulars, perhaps some one else can chime in if they have seen one.
My voltmeter is an off the shelf Autometer gauge fitted into a modified stock bezel.
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This guy converts the factor amp meters to volt meters.
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Michael H. wrote:
This guy converts the factor amp meters to volt meters.
Yep ! already contact and my ammeter is jet fliyng for convrsion to texas !
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Rudi wrote:
I would guess that mine is a large body alternator, it is the stock size for a 96 V-6 Mustang
As for a voltmeter that will replace the stock ammeter, I did see one in a magazine once but I don't have any particulars, perhaps some one else can chime in if they have seen one.
My voltmeter is an off the shelf Autometer gauge fitted into a modified stock bezel.
Thanks Rudi , For my limited information and knoledge the large 3G case will not fit the 289 mustang 66 i got.
this is what i found on the web and this is why i am so in pain choosin one . I dont wanna buy somehing wrong.
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I bought a 1993 Taurus alternator. I comes clocked at 180 degrees, and while I was prepared to modify the tensioning bracket per the data sheet Bullet Bob posted, the Taurus alternator bolted right on using the existing mounting hardware, including the gold spacer. I did have to change the pulley from the serpentine style that came with it to the V groove from the old alternator. The conversion requires a three wire plug (from Ron Francis) for the 3G alternator and a Mega-Fuse holder. The Taurus alternator is rated for 130 Amps, so I installed a 125 amp Mega-Fuse. The rest of the wiring is my distribution block. I'm kind of the anti-6Sally6, I want all my wiring out where I can see it. Make sure you get that little green wire with the red stripe hooked up, it supplies the voltage excitation signal, without it the alternator does not work. The Taurus alternator has an internal regulator, so you can get rid of that 50 year old one on the radiator brace.
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Thanks all , i need to pick up parts and print some specs, then call friends that " speaks electric " and let do the dirty job ....
now pick up the pieces !
Greetings!
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This is who I bought mine from. He even wired it to run the idiot light for free.
I have 1965 289 it fit just fine with the stock hardware. The seller will put on whichever pulley you need.
Can't beat his price or his service!
Last edited by JSHarvey (4/27/2017 7:36 PM)
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JSHarvey wrote:
This is who I bought mine from. He even wired it to run the idiot light for free.
I have 1965 289 it fit just fine with the stock hardware. The seller will put on whichever pulley you need.
Can't beat his price or his service!
Thanks !
Take note that i am abroad and i think he want core back .
ship heavy items are always high cost .
Add shipping and tax and cheap become high.
I have done my homework and search what i think is good for me .
i believe that paperformance has all that i need ( alt +wiring) .
462802C wiring conversion 1g to 3g
1614e 95 amps alt v belt
With this will be all right ....
Bye
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