I would ask the manufacturer for their instruction sheets. They probably explain it quite well.
Basically it slides onto the bearing retainer and has a link that bolts to the front of th tranny to keep the bearing housing and hoses from rotating.

I had called C & J Mustang to inquire about what may have caused the bearing retainer to crack. They told me  that they had learned since I purchased their "complete kit" That using the old z clutch bracket caused the throw out to bind! That is when I remembered that sometimes I could hear a low creaking sound when depressing the clutch! So I bought into their story! Of course they told me that I needed to change the bell housing to the newer fox body style! so I ordered one and when I couldn't get it to fit on my engine, They explained oh You must have a 177 tooth flywheel you need a 164 tooth flywheel< and so the parts buying express started! So I ordered a flywheel with the correct balance! and of course my new clutch would not fit on the new flywheel so I had to order a 10.5 inch clutch kit! and a new spacer between the engine and bell housing! . So once i had that all together I installed the tranny and started to install the cable clutch kit that i purchased from modern drive line as they had a kit specific for my 1970 torino! Wrong! It was a kit that they said would fit 68 to 71 Torinos! and we all know 68-69 torinos are completely different than 70-71 Torinos . So I informed them that their kit did not fit the 70-71 ones, I got a well I guess we will have to update our data! Ya Think? they offered me a partial refund as I had already installed most of their kit, They of course could not accept it as a return! Well it was better Than what C-Js Offered! Any that is what brought me back to Mustang Steve! He has been the only vendor that I have purchased items from that they fit exactly like he claimed! So I trust his opinions! And all of yours as I know you all have been where I am in one sense or another! 
     So how or where does the hydraulic oil line exit the bell housing???  will I need to do anything special when bolting the clutch master cly to the cowl? Does the old clutch pedal has the correct pivot for the hydraulic m/c ? I ask this as I have run across some kits that has an extra movement to them making the clutch engagement a compound movement? I just want to do this once and be done with it!  I am growing tired of all this experimenting! I had hoped that I was getting correct info on this transmission update! I would add this bit of info, The t5 sat a bit higher than my old 3 manual and I had to cut out a section of the hump for clearance. As my floor had a chopped hole in it where some one had added the 3spd floor shiftier, It actually looked like someone used an axe to cut it open! And no shift boot! I guess they never heard about water puddles and splashing! Any way I went to a junk yard and had them cut the hump out of a fox body mustang, I then just trimmed it to fit in my car and then welded it in place and painted it! I then installed a new shift boot and my car was nice and quiet! So still looking for any input you might have! Thanks again! 

You know jer.....................I read your post yesterday and I'm STILL scratching my noggin about ....'.how the Z-bar could cause the bearing retainer to crack'!?! The Z-bar just moves the linkage that moves the throw-out bearing that slides on the bearing retainer!
I'm a skeptical sorta fella and I tinks they were just "sell'in-you-parts"! I could be worng.......(I was once....I thought I made a mistake butt I didn't).
I bet if you just changed the retainer for a steel one and lightly greased that "puppy" it would work "slicker'n snott".
We'll prolly never know because you are in way too deep to switch up now, and I don't blame you. Jus' say'in.
I do know I've been using the old stock Z-bar set-up with the stock Alum. bearing retainer snout hickey for several years with ZERO issues.........interesting.
Welcome to the best forearm on the net!!
6sally6 

The new Ford throwout bearing comes with a groove that is factory packed with grease. Polish the retainer shaft and slide the bearing on using grease as Ford intended.
Recommnd a MS cable clutch kit with T5 bellhousing and release arm and bearing. The cover is available from Ford.

You're clearly getting frustrated, and we've all been there so we get it, but I think the reason you haven't gotten any answers about using a hydraulic throwout bearing in a T5 is probably because no one here has used one on a T5 before... so we just don't know the answer to your question.  That being the case, they were trying to provide helpful alternatives.

I've stayed out of it, but I agree with 6Sally6, that your easiest and cheapest solution would be to stay with the z-bar and just replace the aluminum bearing retainer with a steel one.

That being said, it is certainly your choice whether or not to press on with the install of a hydraulic throwout bearing.  There is certainly nothing wrong with pursuing a new option, but don't get mad when you don't get a lot of help when breaking new ground because the rest of us don't have any experience with it.  We'd help if we could, but we just don't know.
 

Last edited by Michael H. (5/23/2017 8:55 AM)

Jerry, I can understand your frustrations. Have had a few of my own. I'm with 6Sally6, not sure how the movement of the Z-bar linkage can crack the bearing retainer.
It seems like the cheapest solution is to install the steel bearing retainer and drive it a while longer. Whatever direction you go, it appears another bearing retainer in in your future, might as well be steel.

You may not be overly impressed by Modern Driveline, but I sourced my Hydraulic clutch mechanism and everything else for the TKO 600 I bought. The master cylinder is Wilwood piece that I'm still in the process of installing. I do have the instructions for the master cylinder scanned and could email them to you if you like to see the pedal side of things. The throw out bearing is a Tilton unit and I haven't scanned the instruction. Here is a link for the install and set-up of the TO bearing. It took awhile to load on my PC. Watch the video of how to set up clutch clearance. From the video, the hose will exit same place it enters the bell housing, top hose is the bleeder. I would secure it in some fashion, they didn't cover it in the video. The video from 2 guys garage is lacking.

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/internal_hydraulic_slave.htm

 American Powertrain is another outfit that should have a good idea of what your asking.

Jerry, If you're running a diaphragm style pressure plate (not the old style 3-finger type) it will work fine with the z-bar, without the big underdash spring.... That's how I'm running my T-5 in my mustang (z-bar, diaphragm pp, no underdash spring).

Again... not trying to push you toward that method... just making sure you know that's an option.

Last edited by Michael H. (5/24/2017 9:16 AM)

jerry wrote:

Michael H. Thanks for the info. I am leaning towards the hydraulic conversion. Not 100% certain why I am stuck on making this modification . But I am , So I am now just trying to figure out the who and and what! Meaning just what do I need to bring it all together and finalize! Thanks again  

No harm in that.  My '91 F150 has a hydraulic TO bearing and it works great!
Keep us posted on what kit you use and how it works out!  It may turn out to be a great option.