If your new 347 is a roller motor, you will need the 50 oz imbalance flywheel and front damper.

The clutch is a 75213 McLeod Super StreetPro Clutch Kit
and the balancer is a SUM-163289 Harmonic Balancer, OEM, Internal, External Balance, Nodular Iron, Natural, Ford, 289, 302, 351W.=30px https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163289

Last edited by jshrop6004 (6/14/2017 1:15 PM)

Steve69 wrote:

There is some 164t 28oz flywheels on Ebay that you can run different clutch's clutches including 10.5 5.0 Mustang clutch setup which is a lot less of a price.   Keep us posted on you Blueprint stroker.  Did you get the one with the Iron heads?  Steve69

I went with the aluminum heads model rated at 415 HP. I have been told it doesn't matter what tooth the flywheel is as long as its 28 oz imbalance. So it doesn't make sense that Summit only lists 2 that will work.  It is all very confusing.

The flywheels have different diameters and require different engine plates.  Get the flywheel and clutch that matches your engine plate.

MS wrote:

Starters are not different for 157 or 164 tooth flywheels. I see this incorrect info posted quite often.

A Mustang with original 289 and four speed would have a 157 tooth flywheel with 28 ounce balance. You would have had to change the bellhousing and block plate to convert it to 164 tooth, but not the starter. Orignal bell would be for 157 unless it was swapped from a Galaxie or truck engine.

So, if you have a 289 and are convertng to a 28 ounce stroker, you can use the old 289 starter and flywheel. I would verify the stroker is actually 28 oz, though. Seems most are built on 5.0 platform and they would use 50 ounce parts. I have not used a 347 personally, so it may indeed be a 28 ounce.

If you need a new flywheel, Ford Racing makes several versions of billet flywheels for under $300.
I would recommend one for strength and the ability to use the more popular 10.5" clutch.

Thanks for the reply Steve, you see how confusing this can be. 
The spec on the 347 states that it is a 28.2 oz imbalance motor.
The flywheel that was on the 289 was a 164 tooth(could have been changed?).
The existing  clutch is a 10" 3 finger 10 spline.
So I know the 10" clutch will work with the bellhousing I have now, that is why I went with the 10" Mcleod 500 HP clutch. It sounds like I can use either 157 or 164 tooth on the flywheel. The Ford Racing flywheel I have found is part # M-6375-A302B 157 tooth 28.2 oz imbalance. Do you think all this will work together?

Joel S. 

 The problem with starters and flywheels, they're listed wrong, that's the problem. There are two set ups, the 157 and 164 tooth. The 157 tooth starter is listed as the automatic and the 164 tooth is listed as the manual starter. But a 157 tooth flywheel can be either automatic or manual and the same with 164 tooth. The difference between the starters has nothing to do with tooth count on the starter drive but the depth of the starter drive. The ring gear on 157 tooth flywheels are offset by about 3/8" while the 164 tooth ring gear is flush. Starter should be listed by the size of the flywheel, not transmission type. Both the 157 and 164 tooth manual flywheels use the same size clutch. The 164 tooth flywheel weighs about 40 pounds while he 157 tooth weighs about 22 pounds. The flywheel size, bellhousing, block plate and starter are all matched. I'm using a PRW billet flywheel. It uses a bolt on weight. I can use it on a zero balance, 28 oz or 50 oz balance engine. The flywheel is also drilled for every type of SBF clutch set up. I can use any vintage or roller 5.0 with dowel clutch. The flywheel is also SFI rated, etched with a serial number as well as a info card with the serial number. PRW flywheels are used by almost every Engine Master series contestant too. It was about $230 to my door

Yes, 347's are 28 oz balance as the norm even if it's a roller 5.0 block.

Huskinhano wrote:

 The problem with starters and flywheels, they're listed wrong, that's the problem. There are two set ups, the 157 and 164 tooth. The 157 tooth starter is listed as the automatic and the 164 tooth is listed as the manual starter. But a 157 tooth flywheel can be either automatic or manual and the same with 164 tooth. The difference between the starters has nothing to do with tooth count on the starter drive but the depth of the starter drive. The ring gear on 157 tooth flywheels are offset by about 3/8" while the 164 tooth ring gear is flush. Starter should be listed by the size of the flywheel, not transmission type. Both the 157 and 164 tooth manual flywheels use the same size clutch. The 164 tooth flywheel weighs about 40 pounds while he 157 tooth weighs about 22 pounds. The flywheel size, bellhousing, block plate and starter are all matched. I'm using a PRW billet flywheel. It uses a bolt on weight. I can use it on a zero balance, 28 oz or 50 oz balance engine. The flywheel is also drilled for every type of SBF clutch set up. I can use any vintage or roller 5.0 with dowel clutch. The flywheel is also SFI rated, etched with a serial number as well as a info card with the serial number. PRW flywheels are used by almost every Engine Master series contestant too. It was about $230 to my door

Yes, 347's are 28 oz balance as the norm even if it's a roller 5.0 block.

   Do you have a link for that flywheel?
 

Huskinhano wrote:

 The problem with starters and flywheels, they're listed wrong, that's the problem. There are two set ups, the 157 and 164 tooth. The 157 tooth starter is listed as the automatic and the 164 tooth is listed as the manual starter. But a 157 tooth flywheel can be either automatic or manual and the same with 164 tooth. The difference between the starters has nothing to do with tooth count on the starter drive but the depth of the starter drive. The ring gear on 157 tooth flywheels are offset by about 3/8" while the 164 tooth ring gear is flush. Starter should be listed by the size of the flywheel, not transmission type. Both the 157 and 164 tooth manual flywheels use the same size clutch. The 164 tooth flywheel weighs about 40 pounds while he 157 tooth weighs about 22 pounds. The flywheel size, bellhousing, block plate and starter are all matched. I'm using a PRW billet flywheel. It uses a bolt on weight. I can use it on a zero balance, 28 oz or 50 oz balance engine. The flywheel is also drilled for every type of SBF clutch set up. I can use any vintage or roller 5.0 with dowel clutch. The flywheel is also SFI rated, etched with a serial number as well as a info card with the serial number. PRW flywheels are used by almost every Engine Master series contestant too. It was about $230 to my door

Yes, 347's are 28 oz balance as the norm even if it's a roller 5.0 block.

Once again, misinformation about starters.  Yes, the engagement depth is different for manual and automatic starters up until around 1980.  It has nothing to do with tooth count.  For example, an early 289 manual transmission car will use 157 tooth flywheel and starter with depth for manual transmission.  But on a T5 manual transmission in a Fox Mustang, it still has 157 tooth flywheel, but the flywheel was revised (yes, ring gear position and nose depth  as Huskinhano stated.) But is uses a different engagement depth starter than previous manual transmissions with 157 tooth.  Ford finally saw the light and changed so that all small block starters had same engagement depth, whether manual trans or automatic.  The 5.0 with 157 tooth flywheel used the same starter as early cars used with automatic transmissions.  So, if you are converting an early automatic 289 to a later model 5.0 with five speed transmission, you use the early automatic starter.  But if you convert to a T5 on an early 289 and use the 289 early style flywheel, you use the early manual transmission starter.

The tooth count on the flexplate or flywheel has nothing to do with the starter!
 

My starter on my first 66 with a top loader (wish I still had that one!) went out while I was away from my shop.  The only starter I could find was one from a C-4.  It bolted right up and it started but within a couple of seconds, the ring gear had chewed a hole into the aluminum housing.  As said before, the depth was different between the automatic and standard.  I changed the noses on the starter and all was fine.  The difference was not readily apparent.

Please lose that HEI distributor as quickly as possible!

The biggest problem with the HEI distributor is getting a decent looking air cleaner to fit.

Yet another variable in the starter debate.   I have this auction running now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122344520563?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

and I based my information on the front flange of the starter.   It's simply too big in diameter to fit the 
smaller, ie 157t, bellhousing.    The starter came off a C5AA ... bellhousing for a 164t flywheel and it's 
hole for the starter is ever so slightly larger than the smaller bellhousing, hence, the starter simply
wont' fit the hole in the smaller bell.