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10/09/2017 8:45 PM  #1


If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...



Hey all. I've made mistakes in the way I've assembled my 65 convertible, and my aim is to correct those mistakes. whether I correct them incrementally or do some wholesale swap is largely up to your collective input.

I don't think I'd ever put my convertible on a track, but when no one is looking, I flog my car pretty hard. And we have some pretty wide open highways in the Midwest. I do tend to drive a little faster than an adult should. I currently have a Randall's Rack, coupled with a Granada Disc Brake setup on the front. Stockish coils and shocks. I just popped for some adjustable strut rods, so I have an adjustable caster that had always been fixed before. Power steering pump is out of a 68 mustang or something. I can't even remember. I'd have to research what I even have there. When I first assembled all of these things, It drove like a dream. I believe, at this point, it's the rack's physical structure that is providing some slop. Perhaps an alignment would make it feel a bunch better.

Spend months or years getting improper geometry to be less noticeable, or make a real correction? Mustang II? TCP setup? Return to a complete, original Mustang V8 setup with Steve's Cobra brakes? What does the group think would give me a 65 that behaved more like a reasonably modern car? Money is not without limit, but I am blessed to have such choices available for exploration. Big ideas, or fixes on the cheap?

Thanks for sharing your vast collective experience. I love it!

Lance

 

10/09/2017 9:14 PM  #2


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

1" sway bar......monte carlo bar......one piece export bar  made a UGE difference in the way MINE handled.
I like the roller perches because it makes the rider a bit softer on the highway.
6sal6 


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

10/09/2017 9:54 PM  #3


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

Subframe connectors are the #1 mod for suspension.  Without them you are just twisting the car with the springs.

Then relocate the upper A-arms in the Shelby style.

 

10/10/2017 12:37 AM  #4


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

X2 on both Sally and TKO.  Particularly with that 'Vert.  Don't mess with the rack till after the stiffeners are installed.

​However, as I recall, the Early Randall's Racks had a design problem (or was it Flaming River?).  Don't remember the exact symptoms, but others might chime in here.  I have a power TCP rack and except for steering being a little too easy, I love it.  It is tighter than their manual rack and has a much better turning radius.  It rivals the steering in my'15 GT.


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

10/10/2017 2:06 PM  #5


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

6sally6 wrote:

1" sway bar......monte carlo bar......one piece export bar  made a UGE difference in the way MINE handled.
I like the roller perches because it makes the rider a bit softer on the highway.
6sal6 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Subframe connectors are the #1 mod for suspension.  Without them you are just twisting the car with the springs.

Then relocate the upper A-arms in the Shelby style.

Not Mustang II IFS!! Keep going the direction your headed Using 6s6 & TKO's ideas, add roller spring perchs, Progressive springs and think about MS PBR caliper mod If you go to 16" or17" wheels. With larger wheels you can get modern rubber compounds not available for 15" rims
Note: At this point the PBR mod doesn't fit 16" rims, butt we're getting closer using 03-08 Crown Vic Police Interceptor front 12" rotors.
Though why anyone would want to Intercept a cop iz beyond me.

Tubo


If it ain't broke, I haven't modified it Yet
 

10/11/2017 1:15 AM  #6


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

Tubo wrote:

Not Mustang II IFS!! Keep going the direction your headed Using 6s6 & TKO's ideas, add roller spring perchs, Progressive springs and think about MS PBR caliper mod If you go to 16" or17" wheels. With larger wheels you can get modern rubber compounds not available for 15" rims
Note: At this point the PBR mod doesn't fit 16" rims, butt we're getting closer using 03-08 Crown Vic Police Interceptor front 12" rotors.
Though why anyone would want to Intercept a cop iz beyond me.

Tubo

Could you elaborate more on this PBR caliper mod?  Sounds interesting.  Thanks


'66 Fastback since July 27, 1981. Springtime Yellow, originally a 200 cu in, 4 speed. Also a '92 LX Coupe, 5.0, 5 speed.
 

10/11/2017 7:53 AM  #7


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

Tubo wrote:

...we're getting closer using 03-08 Crown Vic Police Interceptor front 12" rotors.
Though why anyone would want to Intercept a cop iz beyond me...

Ha... nice!
 

 

10/11/2017 8:30 AM  #8


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

Muzz 66 wrote:

Tubo wrote:

Not Mustang II IFS!! Keep going the direction your headed Using 6s6 & TKO's ideas, add roller spring perchs, Progressive springs and think about MS PBR caliper mod If you go to 16" or17" wheels. With larger wheels you can get modern rubber compounds not available for 15" rims
Note: At this point the PBR mod doesn't fit 16" rims, butt we're getting closer using 03-08 Crown Vic Police Interceptor front 12" rotors.
Though why anyone would want to Intercept a cop iz beyond me.

Tubo

Could you elaborate more on this PBR caliper mod?  Sounds interesting.  Thanks

I think the PBR mod Tubo refers to is MS's 99-04 Cobra brake kit, which are 13.2 rotors, and require 17" wheels.
 

 

10/12/2017 7:32 AM  #9


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

Thanks for the info. I regularly fail to give as complete a picture of the car as I should when posing such questions, but it always seems like I'm writing a book no one will want to read!

I do have some substantial Global West weld-in sub-frame connectors on. I do have a 1" front sway bar, and a rear sway bar as well. I do have a one-piece export brace, and a monte carlo bar. I do have progressive springs. When I originally acquired the car, new, "heavy-duty-but-stockish" arms had been purchased so I used them. I'd bet they are stock copies. I own roller perches but have never installed them. I bought the template and kit for a shelby drop, but also have never executed that plan.

I suspect the only slop I have yet to attack is the Randall's rack, and that center connector that is shimmed off the backside creating some slop. I fully expected this group to advise me to replace that rack. I fully expected the group to hammer my Granada spindles. When I first assembled the V8 configuration, I had zero indication of bump-steer or any of this wandering. It seems like something developing slop. and the rack seems the next thing to fortify. I'm going to look into strengthening that cantilevered center piece, I suppose. I can't argue with the shelby drop or spring perches. Not sure what else to do.

Always appreciate you guys!

Lance

     Thread Starter
 

10/12/2017 10:26 AM  #10


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

The PBR type calipers can be fitted to 15' &16" rims by using a modified a caliper mount and 12" rotor from a 03-04 Mercury Maurader or Crown Vic Police interceptor. There have been several modified Mustangs (originally equipt with the PBR calipers) being drag raced and with skinny tires and 15" Magstar wheels.
I've spoken with MustangerMike about modifying MustangSteve caliper mounts to this purpose. And I'm continuing to search the interweb for more info on this. 5.0Vert (Barry) were talking about this while on the way to the airport to drop off he and Leoni. A thread will be started in the non too distant future.
Lance before starting too many fron suspension reinforce your unibody with sub-frame connectors and toe boxes on both sides. Many folks us the sub-frame connectors to reduce unibody fles butt forget to add toe boxes. Verts came from the factory with L & R toe boxes, while V8 coupes & 2+2's had right side toe boxes added some time in 65.

Tubo


If it ain't broke, I haven't modified it Yet
 

10/12/2017 8:17 PM  #11


Re: If you're willing, I know you can influence my suspension decisions...

That's good that you have done some work to stiffen the unibody. Absolutely do the Arning drop! That is probably the one single thing that will show a tremendous improvement. I'm not a suspension expert or road race but I do like a good handling car and I made that my number one priority. I did a lot of research as far as understang how suspensions work and faults of the Mustang's and went from there. I have a full Street or Track tubular control arms with all bearings, no rubber bushings any place. having said that, I'm not going to talk you into that. What I will say is what was my impressions to problems. There is not a wide range of adjustments in caster and camber which really hinder you. My impression of the Shelby alignment specs is that they are nothing special. I truly believe they are nothing more then a compromise between the two. Opentracker and Street or Track both sell a camber kit, it's not really expensive, I think tops, $100. It does require a little welding and grinding but well worth the effort. Now you can really start to add some caster and camber that will compliment the Arning drop. I'm glad you have the struts. I think that would be the first higher dollar part I would recommend. Others have mentioned the roller spring perches. Personally I'm a big fan of bearings. If you already have the roller perches, install them. Next up if you decide to invest more money, a roller bearing or mono bearing lower arm. The reason is the rubber bushing in the lower arm takes a beating between going up and down and as well as following the arc of the strut. More so if you added extra caster with the struts. With a mono bearing, this all becomes a not issue as the mono bearing moves in all planes. it'll also last a lot longer and with everything working consistently since there isn't any monkey motion from the bushings, the steering response will be much better and just drive so much better.

Everybody says the steel bearings are going to make for a harsh, noisy ride. The only people who I find who say that are people who don't have a bearing suspension. In fact I found just the opposite to be true. My car is no more noisier or harsher now then before. My car just seems to glide over bumps and pot holes. I've had my suspension over two years now with zero problems. In this time it was only recently I saw someone complain, that person had a TCP suspension.

Anyway, I'm not trying to tell you to go out and buy all this stuff, I'm not. I'm saying don't fear it if you think about using them anyplace. My last couple thoughts. Invest in a good set of shocks like Koni, Bilsteins. You really don't need the rear sway bar. the leaf springs provide a natural anti roll. with the camber kit. and adjustable upper control arms, I run easily 4* positive caster and 1.125* negative camber.  I could easily do more.


I'm not a complete idiot.....pieces are missing. Tom
 

Board footera


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