6sally6 wrote:

Soooooooooo before the Arning/Shelby drop was the car still high in the front?
If so...you have the wrong springs in it. 
Get new springs or cut a coil(or two) off the ones you have now.
IF you cut the springs you have now........it's going to ride VERY rough.
6sally6 

 
Before arning i think it was lower than now . I got some pics as starting point . Not so much but s someting to look at .
Maybe the shocks were completely worne and csr sits only on springs and year after year it settle much more ...
I dont know .... These are only thoughts and word .
I need some measure of spring to be sure on this job .
Btw i know that cutting the spring it will be more rough so thats why i prefer buy new set jet short .
 a pics of car before arnjng
Thanks

Last edited by Alessandro (10/16/2017 5:18 AM)

Michael H. wrote:

Have you verified that your springs are seated properly on the spring seat (with the "tail" of the spring up against the tab) ?  If they are not it will cause it to sit high.

  X2

... and you have the spring saddle/perch installed with the "tab" closest to the shock tower?

... and the flat end of the spring is up?  

... just trying to ask the simple things, please don't be offended...
 

Are these the same springs you were using before doing the Shelby/Arning Drop?
When I did the drop I installed new springs and my car sat WAY TOO LOW because the vendor shipped me '65-'66 springs instead of '67-'68 springs.  I don't remember what year your car is, but could it be a '65 or '66 with '67-'68 springs (i.e. the exact opposite of the problem I had) ???
 

If they're the same springs you were running before doing the drop then they shouldn't suddenly be taller.  I was just unclear on whether they were the same springs or not.
 

Consider this.  If the spring is the same one you started with, then the spring perch does not move up or down by doing the Shelby drop.  The perch is the PIVOT POINT for the UCA.  If you move the inner mount point LOWER, it will raise the upper ball joint HIGHER, and that lowers the car.

Now, if you are unable/unwilling to roll the car 3-4 meters forward and backward so the wheels can reposition themselves, the car will always sit at it's maximum suspension travel, and installing the engine or jumping up and down on it is not going to change anything.

MS wrote:

Consider this.  If the spring is the same one you started with, then the spring perch does not move up or down by doing the Shelby drop.  The perch is the PIVOT POINT for the UCA.  If you move the inner mount point LOWER, it will raise the upper ball joint HIGHER, and that lowers the car.

Now, if you are unable/unwilling to roll the car 3-4 meters forward and backward so the wheels can reposition themselves, the car will always sit at it's maximum suspension travel, and installing the engine or jumping up and down on it is not going to change anything.

I will do this try and see what happens . thanks !

JSHarvey wrote:

What was it like before the drop? 

How much did it drop when you put the engine in? It should have dropped several inches when engine's weight was added. If it didn't you've got the wrong springs. I think I would just order some new (correct) springs.

 
For sure not several inches.....after the engine inn maybe One .
Car seems to be on tramp or high hills shoes.....
I am gonna buy a new lower set

MS wrote:

Have you tried rolling the car?
Springs will not settle until you do.
I give up.

 
Hi , finally after month i can roll the car for a little ...
The result is that car now sit low .

You were fully right about this!   
sayd that with old springs and shelby drop , now is sitting 1 inch lower than before .
The car was low also before putting hands on it so now i got the opposite problems
Tire and Fender clearence !

Thanks ms , is  never too late to learn something  !

One of the characteristics of these rear steer suspensions is when the suspension extends, the tires toe in. When you compress the suspension, the tires toe out. It also works the other way. If the tires are excessively toed in, that may bind up the suspension and not let it settle. You may want. The plastic bags under the tires work great to allow the tires to slip while working on it. I use the bags when I do alignments on my 66

You didn't remove the spring perches did you?
 

Alessandro wrote:

Huskinhano wrote:

You didn't remove the spring perches did you?
 

 
I have put new uca , lca and roller perches , but i havent understand the question ....
Can you explain ?

Anyway the car is very soft riding and i am thinking to put stronger coil rate and 4 1\2 leaf springs.
I would like to have more stiffer feelings

I was under the impression you did not change the upper arm or spring. As someone else asked about the tab on the spring perches that is due to the rubber not easily moving. The shaft that bolts to the control arm is clocked to compensate for the spring pressure and angle. If it was put in backwards it's going to effect how the spring sits. On the roller bearing perches it makes no difference if the tab is in or out. I also thought you said you tried rollering or driving the car and that did not fix the issue. I see know that after you had rolled the car, it fixed the problem. We're just glad you got it all sorted out.