You'll need a manual center link but the tie rod ends can be used as are.  I made the swap to manual when I added the Borg box and re-used both tie-rod ends.  Pass side is the same, driver's side is different to clear the control valve but will work fine with the manual center.  If you have an OEM power idler arm you can change to a manual one which will probably make it steer a bit easier.  And....if you have a power idler arm with a good, tight ball/socket don't pitch it.  They are getting hard to find and the bushing can be replaced and is available (NPD).

BB

The same thing happened to mine years ago, I welded it back on. Mine was a home made steel drop down bracket to clear the Tri-y headers. I think the O/E was cast iron and require a suitable welding rod.
 I have EPAS with manual linkage now so  I will have to get a plasma torch and burn it off.

Last edited by Rudi (10/24/2017 10:56 AM)

MS wrote:

Was this an aftermarket drop bracket for header clearance, or the stock piece?
The longer aftermarket pieces let the ram apply more leverage and are rarely properly bolted on.

The repair involves welding some flanged 3/8” nuts into the holes in the frame. If a drop type bracket is used, weld it solid to the frame or it will eventually break loose again.

Exactly what happened to mine and repaired it exactly like MS describes, with one additional step. I purchased the new "long" bracket but found that I didn't need quite that much clearance, so I cut it shorter and re-drilled the hole exactly where I needed it. I ended up about half way between the two brackets currently being sold. It does reduce the leverage on the bracket to a minimum and increases my ground clearance.