Lets  start from scratch;

Put #1 cyl at TDC BOTH VALVES must be closed on that cylinder. Put your distribtor in and have the rotor pointing to # 1 cyl wire on the cap, may not be exactly on it but should be very close. 

Look at the area on the timing cover on the passenger's side of the engine, underneath the water pump. You will see the triangle-shaped timing pointer attached to the timing cover. It sets directly above the harmonic balancer, which is behind the crankshaft pulley. Look at the balancer for some numbers stamped on it. If you don't see the numbers, place a ratchet and socket on the large bolt in the center of the crankshaft and rotate the engine in a clockwise direction, looking at the front of the engine. When you see the numbers come into view, remove the ratchet and socket and spray the numbers with some parts cleaner and wipe off with a shop rag. Paint the numbers with some white-out to make them easier to see. The figures will state "20-10-TC-10," with little hashmarks between the numbers. The timing specification for the 289 is 6 degrees before top dead center. This will be the third hashmark before the TC.Disconnect the vacuum advance line from the vacuum advance on the distributor and plug it with a plastic vacuum line plug.Hook up your timing light by clipping the spark plug lead over the first spark plug wire on the passenger's side of the engine, then click the red lead to the positive battery terminal and the black lead to the negative battery terminal.Use a wrench to loosen the bolt that secures the distributor; do not loosen it so much that the distributor turns freely.Start the engine and aim the timing light at the pointer and harmonic balancer. Be careful of moving parts such as pulleys, fan belts and the fan blade. Note where the marks on the balancer line up with the pointer. If it's not on the third mark before the TC, turn the distributor until it is. When you have the mark properly aligned, tighten the distributor bolt and double-check your timing.Turn off the engine. Remove the plug from the advance line and hook it back up to the distributor. Unhook the timing light.

Last edited by Rudi (12/11/2017 3:49 PM)

Michael H. wrote:

This is probably a dumb question but when you found TDC did you verify you were on the compression stroke?

 
Well , as the first time doing this maybe i have mistake some but i turn with a key until piston 1 was at top , damper refer at tdc  mark , valve were closed .
Extract the distributor and set in place with rotor direction 1 to wire .

Unfortunately i have not the strobe light to set it properly , but i was thinking just to rev the engine to circulate fluids and really only a first start .  But  ....

Both valves will be closed when at TDC whether on the compression stroke OR the intake stroke.

You have to crank the engine for about 90 degrees as #1 approaches TDC. With the spark plug removed, you will feel a good strong blast of air comng from the spark plug hole as it approaches the top if on the compression stroke. Just hold your thumb loosely over the hole. The air will be obvious on compression stroke.

I do not use starter for this test because of the danger of cranking the engine on the intake stroke and sucking your thumb into the spark plug hole.   I hear it won’t come back out easily.

Ok , re start again with turning the crank and follow the intake valve that going to close much more i get close to tdc .  I think is the right spot . Piston 1 is at top  . After that exaust valve start opens.
But the problem is i got no spark , but i have 12 v on positve coil .
If the dist cap is mismatch , could give no spark  or it give always spark but at wrong moment ?

Initially I suggest you belay the Pertronics module and revert to properly set up points in the distributer.
 Once you get it running then you can swith over to the Pertronics.
 For myself I find it easier to trace dowm no spark problems with points rather than the mysterious innards of electronic modules.

Last edited by Rudi (12/12/2017 9:22 AM)

Is the engine popping belching backfiring or making any other kind of noises but not starting? Have you checked to see weather you are getting spark out of the plug wire. Put a screw driver in the plug end of the wire and hold it about 1/4 inch from a piece of metal to check for spark. Be careful not to get shocked or light your car on fire. I agree with Rudi, put your points back in and when it it closed to being timed right open and close the points with a screw driver and notice if you have spark in the points or not, it should be bluish white in color to be strong enough to fire the engine at the spark plug wire and in the points.

Sounds to me like you have electricity issues. Maybe the coil or the positive wire. Try jumping it from the battery. Hot wire it. You should have at least some kind of noise coming from the engine like it is trying to start. One pop tells me you lost power someplace.

MS wrote:

coachJack wrote:

"Both valves will be closed when at TDC whether on the compression stroke OR the intake stroke."

I beg to differ on the above statement.

Depending on the cam (and for most cams) during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is open and as the piston approaches TDC of the exhaust stroke, the intake valve opens. During the transition from the exhaust stroke to the intake stroke, both valves are open and after the intake stroke starts down, the exhaust valve closes and of course the intake valve stays open. 

Coach Jack 
 

 
Please explain how any valve can be open when the piston is at TDC.

What Jack is saying, Steve, is that there is always a bit of "overlap" at the top (TDC) of the exhaust stroke where the exh valve is closing and the intake is opening.  The only time both valves are closed at TDC is at the top of the compression stroke.
If a guy isn't used to looking at this, and if the cam is mild, it may appear that both valves are closed at the top of the exhaust stroke when they are actually in "overlap".
Guys with "Sally" cams will never make this mistake.

BB
 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (12/13/2017 8:19 AM)

When I check for TDC Compression with the rocker cover removed I always wiggle the rockers by hand a bit to be sure the lifters are on the heel of the cam (TDC Compression) and not starting to lift the intake or just letting down the exhaust.

BB

Eccellente!!!!!!!!!

Air, fuel and spark works every time.

Way to go; Alessandro!