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36 and 37's are way cool. Far from an ugly duckling.
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I love that car!!!
Whar bore size is your master cylinder, and what is the pedal ratio?
Does it have a booster? Those are fanrastic brakes when tte system is set up right.
You are better off with the original Ford pads than with anything off the local shelf.
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MS wrote:
I love that car!!!
Whar bore size is your master cylinder, and what is the pedal ratio?
Does it have a booster? Those are fanrastic brakes when tte system is set up right.
You are better off with the original Ford pads than with anything off the local shelf.
Thanks everybody for the kind words. I fell in love with 37's when I was just a little kid and believe it or not this is my first car. I bought her at the age of 13 when working summers at the family business, I'm just now getting her where I want at the age of 34.
If memory serves the master cylinder is 1 1/8" corvette style master cylinder, and the booster is a small 7" dual diaphragm booster. I have no idea what the pedal ratio is, the pedals were provided by Pete and Jakes Hot Rods. I haven't checked vacuum but its running a Boss 351 with EFI and a George Pence 351CJ camshaft on 114 LSA, so it should produce pretty good vacuum for the booster.
The rear brake setup is Explorer discs.
I did find out the other day day that the proportioning valve that goes to the rear was completely turned all the way one direction. The sticker on the handle has fallen off so I don't know which way to turn the valve but it would only go counter clockwise so I turned it a few turns and will see what that does. In theory that would be taking away from the front brakes but I guess the valve could operate backwards.
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Which brand of proportion valve do you have? This is the how to adjust the Wilwood pv:
The adjusting knob is marked with an arrow indicating the direction required to decrease line pressure to the
calipers. The knob rotated all the way out (counter-clockwise) will provide a maximum pressure reduction of
57%. Rotating the knob in (clockwise) will incrementally increase line prressure, up to full pressure.
Last edited by rpm (12/19/2017 9:44 AM)
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I'm guessing the 1 1/8 master is hurting you ... 1" would be more suitable
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Very nice looking car.
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50vert wrote:
I'm guessing the 1 1/8 master is hurting you ... 1" would be more suitable
Totally agree. Those brakes need a 1.0” bore master cylinder. You won’t believe how much difference it will make.
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The 1" master cylinder is going to do what? increase pressure? the pedal seems to go down easy enough with the booster.
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The 1" ms will get you more PSI. I had a 1 1/8" ms on my 68 and it would not stop worth a crap. It now stops on the proverbial dime with a 1" diameter master cylinder.
Get a hydraulic brake system pressure gauge and see for yourself.
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Rudi wrote:
The 1" ms will get you more PSI. I had a 1 1/8" ms on my 68 and it would not stop worth a crap. It now stops on the proverbial dime with a 1" diameter master cylinder.
Get a hydraulic brake system pressure gauge and see for yourself.
Was your car running a brake booster? or was it manual brakes?
I was looking in the basement and I have a 1" master cylinder that was on the car for about 15 mins. I might get it back out and give it a try.
I do remember now the pedal assembly was originally setup to be a manual brake setup so the pedal geometry should be geared toward a manual brake.
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cj428mach wrote:
Rudi wrote:
The 1" ms will get you more PSI. I had a 1 1/8" ms on my 68 and it would not stop worth a crap. It now stops on the proverbial dime with a 1" diameter master cylinder.
Get a hydraulic brake system pressure gauge and see for yourself.Was your car running a brake booster? or was it manual brakes?
I was looking in the basement and I have a 1" master cylinder that was on the car for about 15 mins. I might get it back out and give it a try.
I do remember now the pedal assembly was originally setup to be a manual brake setup so the pedal geometry should be geared toward a manual brake.
Yes I am using a booster. Even though the master cylinder I ended up using was an O/E spec one for disk front and drum rear, it works perfectly with my MK VII rear disk conversion.
The 1 1/8" ms was giving me pressures in the 750 psi range whereas the 1" was around 1300 psi. Conventional wisdom is that you should be able to generate 1200 psi under severe braking conditions.
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I swapped in the 1" master cylinder and i can say there was a noticeable increase in braking power. I probably still have some bleeding to do as I didn't have a helper. I bench bled the master cylinder and managed to bleed the rear brakes a few times with a ratchet strap but after seeing not a single bubble of air I didn't bother to bleed the fronts.
I have some other mods to do on the lift and I'll see if I can round up a helper to properly bleed the brakes. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Glad its worked out for you. Enjoy that NICE 36!!
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