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Hi , i would like to ask your opinion about your ride and related coil spring rate and leaf spring rate .
i think i need to put new front and rear , because i relized that old ones are really old and tired .
the new konj adjustrable shocks mounted are softer than espected and i wish have stiffer feelings.
i have found multiple choice and i would like to know some suggestions before buying .
coil global west s24 rated 640 Lb linear rate
coil global west s23 rated 540 Lb linear rate
coil grab a trak gt514 rated 620 Lb linear rate
coil scott drake 5310pr rated 600 lb progressive
coil scott drake 5310 rated 600 lb linear
coil ridetech 12092350 not rated dual rate ( progressive ?)
leaf springs grab a trak LLS5 4 1/2 leafs standard eye 175 Lb
leaf springs scott drake 5560 4me 4 1/2 leafs mid eye no rate
I have not consider 5 leafs because for what i read around are too much stiffer
and i will not carry more than driver and passanger .
I would like to have more rigid car and not so soft like it was before . Appreciate any input
bye !
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With a stock suspension I would not go stiffer then the factory GT coil which I believe is 480 pounds per inch. I would stick to the factory 110 pound per inch GT in the rear and I wouldn’t go more then the 4.5 leaf 138 pound per inch in the rear. Keep the shocks on the softer settings.
You have to allow the suspension to do it’s job. Making it too stiff and the tires will loose contact with the road surface. I would also focus on making the body of the car stiffer too.
Last edited by Huskinhano (1/31/2018 7:49 AM)
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Ride choice is like paint color, it’s an individual choice and depends mostly on what you plan to do with the car. For me, my car is street driven, with enthusiasm. I have 620 coils on front and Grab-a-Trac 4 leafs on rear with Monroe shocks. I like the ride and handling although the rear seems a little soft for hard cornering but since I don’t race it it serves the purpose. If I were to change anything I would go to 4.5 out back and add a sway bar and definitely replace the shocks with something adjustable.
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My car will be more street driven and some funny mountain road but far away from race.
With old springs and new shocks i think is only half job .
Does anyone have find noticeable differences between progressive and linear rate , if using ?
My arms are not stock . Upper and perches with roller , lower renforced .
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In my 65 FB, I have the GT coils in the front and 4-1/2 leaf springs (standard eye location) in the rear. I have Bilstein shocks from Street or Track. Like you, I have roller perches and reinforced arms. Mine also has the Arning 1" drop. I have adjustable strut rods that I made (see my post on that in the tips section). The GT coils resulted in the car sitting too high, so I cut off 1/3 of a coil. It's still a little high, but I'm expecting the car to settle a bit. The rear is similarly a bit high for my taste, but again I'm hoping it will settle a bit. Also, where I drive in Dallas, the roads can be rough in spots and my driveway has a large hump on entry, so I need more ground clearance. I went with the 4-1/2 leaf rear springs because I had 5 leaf springs and they were too stiff. I like the 4-1/2 leaf springs because the extra 1/2 leaf (which is in the front) helps prevent wheel wrap, acting like a traction bar. Only having 4 leafs in the rear part of the spring provides a softer ride than a full 5 leaf spring.
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Huskinhano wrote:
With a stock suspension I would not go stiffer then the factory GT coil which I believe is 480 pounds per inch. I would stick to the factory 110 pound per inch GT in the rear and I wouldn’t go more then the 4.5 leaf 138 pound per inch in the rear. Keep the shocks on the softer settings.
You have to allow the suspension to do it’s job. Making it too stiff and the tires will loose contact with the road surface. I would also focus on making the body of the car stiffer too.
X2 - That is what I have.
My front GT's have an included 1" drop and the 4 leaf rears are reverse eyed. You can see the car to the left. I love the roller perches. Shocks are GR2's that I got for free. Not my favorite. A-arms are Total Control. I got rid of the TCP strut rods as they made the ride too harsh for me. I also have Traction Masters in the rear.
Keep the Koni's they are the best you can get. Just adjust them to the stiffness you desire.
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Totally opposite opinion.......
.Keep the "worn-out"(or even 6-cylinder) front springs and go with a firmer shock.
Replace the leafs with stock replacement and "firmer" shocks. DON'T opt for the "teeth-jarring" stiff springs and racing shocks set-up!!!
This is suppose to be a fun riding/handling car not a performer.IMHO
6s6
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red351 wrote:
One thing I have notice over the years collecting coil springs is ford or somebody didn't install the by the book front springs. So I just keep then all.... Reason is, going by the book specs (wire size/coil count and free standing unloaded height) they are still in perfect health. Its just way did someone put this (by the book) set of 67 S code 390 coil springs in this 67 C code 289 coupe. My simple thinking says coils don't weaken as much as we are always told too think. Now a car that been in a barn fire (yes) or its been sitting in a swamp for years and have rusted or rotted the wire size down (yes) or its been sitting in a junk yard again for years with 5 cars on top (yes). Leaf springs are like a different animal....A good Cleveland can wrap them up so tight, they will never be the same again....
Long live wheel hop and spring wrap!!!!!!!!!!
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finally arrive new springs , i went with global west s23 . i also moved from arning drop to basic settings .
The springs are 540 lb , shorter than old ones and beefier , nice paint .
put on yesterday and need to roll the car before say something about ride height .
now boucing the front is different , is not floating , is quick response .
i think that i could also go with 640 lb without surprise to have hard ride.
i think this are good product
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Global West is one of the best vendors around, so you should have no problems with your springs. I believe that 540's will be sufficient. 640's, while several of us have them, are more of a racing spring.
You should do the Arning drop. It gives a much better camber curve for better handling on those winding Italian roads.
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If any interest, this is the link to Eaton Detroit Springs for Mustangs.
All different spring rates, pick and choose by year, motor, AC or no-AC.............
I found the price was very comparable.
Gerald
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lowercasesteve wrote:
Global West is one of the best vendors around, so you should have no problems with your springs. I believe that 540's will be sufficient. 640's, while several of us have them, are more of a racing spring.
You should do the Arning drop. It gives a much better camber curve for better handling on those winding Italian roads.
Well , i dont wanna do the same mistake twice .
When i placed the arning drop and roll the car , tire was sitting too much inside fender .
These are yet lower so first i will do like original .next time i can try dropping it.
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I have try now with the alignement done at shop and driving is fantastic !
Konj shoks and s23 global west springs are perfect ! Not too hard !
Now is without arning drop . The new springs are already short so doing the drop , will sit again tire too much inside Fender . Now is perfect low without fender issue !
Satisfied !!
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I used the search bar to find an old topic!!
1966 Mustang Coupe, 1988 5.0 HO, T5z, EFI, MAF
It seems front springs are all about the weight vs the spring rate in regards to getting the desired ride height. With the 5.0 swap and T5z, is there significant additional weight relative to stock V8? The 640 lb springs would be really stiff for a stock car but I'm thinking the additional weight might make sense to go w/ the stiffer springs. I wish there was a chart for this.
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If you'd like to hear from the Eaton Springs owner talk about springs, this video is the one to watch.
At 3 minutes in, he corrects a common mistake with calling a 620 spring as a 620lb spring. He says that the 620 is the wire diameter meaning it is 620 thousandths of an inch in diameter.
Perhaps some will find the interview a good watch.
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TremendousWand wrote:
I used the search bar to find an old topic!!
1966 Mustang Coupe, 1988 5.0 HO, T5z, EFI, MAF
It seems front springs are all about the weight vs the spring rate in regards to getting the desired ride height. With the 5.0 swap and T5z, is there significant additional weight relative to stock V8? The 640 lb springs would be really stiff for a stock car but I'm thinking the additional weight might make sense to go w/ the stiffer springs. I wish there was a chart for this.
I think a 5.0 with T-5 should be lighter than a stock 289 with 4-speed, except the weight of the 5.0 accessories may add up to negate any weight savings. In any case I don't think it's any heavier. I know from personal experience that the T-5 is significantly lighter than a 4-speed.
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