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Lifter pieces were in the pan. The lifter had to be driven out top-down after removing the camshaft. Lots more pieces still in the pan that haven't been cleaned out yet. This used to be a ROLLER lifter, folks.
Two lobes on the camshaft were wiped out. This is a billet steel roller cam. Looks like the second lobe was collateral damage from the lifter coming apart.
This is the bottom of the lifter bore from the trashed lifter.
This is the bottom of the lifter bore on the other side of the block. but on the adjacent camshaft lobe.
I believe the Dart aluminum block can be salvaged by simply cleaning up the bottom of the two lifter bores and making sure the new lifters slide easily in the bores. Then I have to thoroughly clean everything. I will install a new oil pump and check the oil thoroughly for small specks of metal. So far, I have not seen any. The pieces have been LARGE pieces, so hopefully I can get everything clean. If I find any metal in the oil pump, then I will have to 100% disassemble and clean all parts and passages. The fact that this occurred at idle speed and was not driven on the road makes me more confident there is not a lot of ground up metal in the engine.
WHY? did this happen? Who knows... BUT, the residue in the oil pan looked like something I have never seen before. Kind of like some darker thicker runs in the cleaner oil residue. I am thinking this may be a result of using that rear main seal treatment. It did stop the rear main seal from leaking, but did it destroy my engine? If you used that stuff, I would get it out of there ASAP.
Now, I need to order a new cam and set of lifters, plus a new clutch and oil pump. I am wondering if I can use stock Ford roller lifters in the Dart aluminum block. These COMP CAMS lifters sure did not work out for me. They have right at 12,000 miles on them.
Yeah, I know... I had better clean out the entire engine to be sure this won't happen again soon.
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To quote Frank Barrone....."Holy Crap".......
Have you considered discussing what you found with the engine builder to see if he has any ideas on what might have caused this failure?
Knowing you, that engine will be up and running very soon....
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I came home from one of the "earlier" bashes and my Mustang was making a "funny" noise.(not ha-ha- funny....just funny-funny)
Anyhow......3 or4 of my roller lifters were trashed. The roller wheel was flat on a couple of lifters and one of the wheels was totally GONE! I "suspected" the camshaft from Delta Cams was the problem.
After I sent it to them they called and said it was NOT the cam butt the lifters.
When I told him the stock lifters came from the junk yard engine I bought several years before...he laughed and said......"Mr. Mike...these things don't last FOREVER!!"
They sold me a new set of lifters (Delphi I think) for less than Summits price and reground/touched-up the cam for free.
I like dealing with those guys. Cam was custom ground to what I wanted/and what they recommended . Ken was real helpful and turn-around wasn't long at all.
No probs with cam again(its been 4/5 years)
Jus say'in
6sal6
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Did the bar holding the lifters together fail? I was just looking at lifters today, a set of those is almost eight hundred bucks! Then I did a quick search on eBay and there is Chinese ones going for a little over a hundred. I was searching just coming ideas on what to do with a 351 sitting on my shop floor. Every option seems to have drawbacks. I k ow OnE thing, if those gave it up, Chinese parts ain't going in.
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Ouch. That’s ugly. And I was just about to order some Comp roller lifters!
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These are dogbone style lifters. Not the bar type where pairs are connected.
If Ford lifters will fit, that is what I am going back with.
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You are not alone...
thread-comp-cams-roller-lifter-failure-again
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Here’s hoping the lifter bores don’t have to be bored and sleeved.
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I sleeved an aluminum block to fix some lifter bores once. A racer friend told us to use aluminum sleeves of the same thermal expansion material and use a high press fit. It has been running now for 10 plus years and no problems. He said that once he used brass ones and they did not stay in place. I have seen a lot of aluminum blocks at the track that had sleeves welded in.
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One downside of rollers is they do not rotate in their bores. But the car manufacturers have gone with them, so I feel they do have advantages. I just got lucky and had a non-OEM lifter that had a problem.
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Are you sure those are Comp Cams roller lifters? I looked at pictures of different lifters this morning, none of the lifters Comps offers had the three ribs like yours pictured. However, they do look like these.
Not that I doubt you, Im sure you know your parts list. Maybe the Comps lifters and Ford lifters one and the same under different labels?
Edit:
Or these.
Last edited by Greg B (2/20/2018 10:43 AM)
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Greg,
The first example you list has 12 reviews on Summits site. Two gave negative feedback due to lifter failure.
Retaining clips failed......worth reading their feedback.....MS may have experienced the same thing...
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MS wrote:
One downside of rollers is they do not rotate in their bores.
I've often wondered why someone hasn't developed a roller lifter where the roller on the bottom is a ball that can roll in any direction, similar to the ball on a ballpoint pen... then they could rotate in their bores and wouldn't need additional apparatus to keep them from spinning (i.e. dog-bone and spider or linked bar )
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Dang! I used the seal sealer in my Engine too. I have a flat tappet cam. I didn't drive much last summer but Ill change the oil in the spring. Thanks for the heads up! Steve69
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My Denver-based engine builder avoids Comp Cams lifters as he finds that while they come in a comp cams box, one set to the next may come from a different supplier. He used to recommend the Ford lifters but since Ford doesn't make Windsor motors anymore, the quality of the replacements in recent years has been hit or miss as they are no longer made by the original supplier. He also avoids the cams from comp as well as he finds many of their ramp designs are overly aggressive for no added value. These ramps make it difficult for the lifter to follow which tends to make the valve train noisy and leads to customer complaints. Also, the lifter is having to work a little harder to stay on the cam for no net gain. Of course, I'm out of town and couldn't reach him to get his current lifter recommendation. And, I'm sure that all the people that love comp cams will now post incessantly how this information is wrong. I tend to trust someone who builds hundreds of these motors.
As far as the block and the original failure, I think that there are ways to sleeve lifter bores if the damage is too great to clean up. While the root cause does appear to be roller failure you may want to carefully check the position of the cam to ensure it wasn't offset fore or aft which may cause the lifters to ride on the edge of the lobes. Long shot but it is an aftermarket block and there can be machining and/or setup errors. You may want to check some of the undamaged lobes to see if the roller pattern is properly centered. It is more unlikely that the one lifter bore is out of position but never say never.
Last, the contact pressure from the point contact of a ball versus a roller would be huge and no cam would survive. It all boils down to pounds per square inch and with point contact from a ball, the square inches is really small. When you take the same load and spread it across the width of the roller, the cam, with good material, can survive. If I am not mistaken, the rotation of the flat tappet lifters was meant to protect the lifter/cam contact and not the lifter bore.
I'll post again if I am able to reach my local shop as far has his current cam and lifter manufacturer recommendations.
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We need electronic valve actuation ala F1
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I haven't heard of this happening much with hydraulic rollers, but it does happen enough with solid roller lifters on street driven cars. If it was mine I would have that lifter bore checked out in all ways possible. Just because a lifter will slide up and down does not mean it is true and straight. I would make sure your valve springs are stout enough for roller lifters with your cam profile, plus maybe you just had a bad lifter where the small spring inside gave way allowing the lifter to jump the ramp and pound the roller trunnion to bits.
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I cleaned up the block today. I was able to clean up the lifter bores so lifters would slide easily through the bore. The only damage that was done was the very bottom edge of the bore. The lifter pattern on the cam was consistently in the center of the lobes. All other lifters looked fine.
As to lifter brand, they were supplied by Keith Craft racing engines when they built my short block. Since the cam was from Comp, I assumed the lifters were same. I will have to go check my build sheet. It was 6 years ago.
Greg, thanks for the pics. I am not sure what lifters to buy now. Probably the Ford racing ones you pictured. Open to suggestions, though.
My lifter failure was at the bottom of the lifter where the roller attaches. The thing broke when I was backing out of the garage, so it was not from overrevving it. The retainer ring at the top was intact.
I am thinking of going with a less aggressive cam. Get more low end and less high rpm, since I rarely have a place where I can “punch it” in my car. I know, Sal, blasphemy! But being realistic, the car will get better mileage on bash trips and drive smoother with more torque at lower rpm.
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I’ve heard nothing but good reviews on the Morel lifters.
MS- What cam was in it?
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Probably be able to swing a sweet deal on a nice Altima!! Great gas mileage and the 2.5 is very "peppy".
Jus say'in
6sal6
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Morel lifters went in mine. It’s the go to option for the guys building FE’s to make a living over on those forums.
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Cool vid to help you "get-your-mind-right" about DE-camming that sweet running Mustang!
Really liked the 57 seconds to 104 second spot!!
Tell us (in all honesty) that was not you on many occasions..
1.Put you another cam and lifters in the old 427 maybe advance the cam 4-5 degrees.(make it "more responsive" in lower RPM range!).
2. Leave Sherry at home..
3. Go "beat-the-poop" out of that FOUR-TWENTY-SEVEN Mustang til you get a cramp in your face from
smil'in so much.
4. You'll thank me some day for this!
6sally6
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Gotta love Huberts "wing tip" racing shoes!!!!!!
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My Comp Cams camshaft was a custom grind, and not all that large. @.050, 224-I and 232-E with .556 and .566 lift
112 lobe separation.
I found a Howard's cam with 272/278 (219/225 @.050) duration and .544/.533 lift. 112 lobe separation. It is not that much different than the old cam.
I do not plan on racing this car. I want it to be a good strong driver with lots of torque.
Still undecided on cam, but need to get one ordered ASAP..
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MS wrote:
My Comp Cams camshaft was a custom grind, and not all that large. @.050, 224-I and 232-E with .556 and .566 lift
112 lobe separation.
I found a Howard's cam with 272/278 (219/225 @.050) duration and .544/.533 lift. 112 lobe separation. It is not that much different than the old cam.
I do not plan on racing this car. I want it to be a good strong driver with lots of torque.
Still undecided on cam, but need to get one ordered ASAP..
I have a cam that is really close to that Howards cam of yours. Comp Cams - 218/224@0.050 .513 lift. Lots of power from off idle to 5 grand. (My 351W iron heads seem to die there.) So, you can have a real stump puller with it.
I think you would be happy with either one.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (2/21/2018 12:15 AM)
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