I have a Centerforce dual friction clutch. It would probably be ok to reuse, but it has burned some spots on the fyywheel, with one area being pretty rough.  And some gauled up places on one side of the clutch disc.

I was on the Summit site last night.  They have revised their search stuff and I could not locate the same clutch again.

The only reason lifters need to rotate is that they are flat tappet, otherwise your pistons would rotate too.

Really sorry about what happened.  What makes you think that it may be a result of the rear main seal leak additive?

MS wrote:

Lifter pieces were in the pan.  The lifter had to be driven out top-down after removing the camshaft.  Lots more pieces still in the pan that haven't been cleaned out yet.  This used to be a ROLLER lifter, folks.


Two lobes on the camshaft were wiped out.  This is a billet steel roller cam.  Looks like the second lobe was collateral damage from the lifter coming apart.


This is the bottom of the lifter bore from the trashed lifter.


This is the bottom of the lifter bore on the other side of the block. but on the adjacent camshaft lobe.

I believe the Dart aluminum block can be salvaged by simply cleaning up the bottom of the two lifter bores and making sure the new lifters slide easily in the bores.  Then I have to thoroughly clean everything.  I will install a new oil pump and check the oil thoroughly for small specks of metal. So far, I have not seen any.  The pieces have been LARGE pieces, so hopefully I can get everything clean.  If I find any metal in the oil pump, then I will have to 100% disassemble and clean all parts and passages.   The fact that this occurred at idle speed and was not driven on the road makes me more confident there is not a lot of ground up metal in the engine.

WHY? did this happen?  Who knows... BUT, the residue in the oil pan looked like something I have never seen before.  Kind of like some darker thicker runs in the cleaner oil residue.  I am thinking this may be a result of using that rear main seal treatment.  It did stop the rear main seal from leaking, but did it destroy my engine?  If you used that stuff, I would get it out of there ASAP. 

Now, I need to order a new cam and set of lifters, plus a new clutch and oil pump.  I am wondering if I can use stock Ford roller lifters in the Dart aluminum block.  These COMP CAMS lifters sure did not work out for me.  They have right at 12,000 miles on them.

Yeah, I know... I had better clean out the entire engine to be sure this won't happen again soon.

MS the rear seal sealer may have screwed with the viscosity and performance of the engine oil in multiple ways...I am running Morel Billet rollers in my Cleveland...they recommend 5W30 to insure the oil gets everywhere....Sorry to here this happened....Pulling the engine and boiling it or not??? is a crap shoot...maybe pull the trans and then all the plugs in the engine blocks oiling system
and Flush it out ?? NO...pull the engine and BOIL it, replace what makes sense...soak the new seals in sealant stop leak a week before installing them.... jmho.......jj

Last edited by jerseyjoe (2/24/2018 9:36 AM)

Sounds to me that based on everything you've posted that the lifters just failed due to a manufacturing defect.  I doubt the rear main seal additive or the switch to 50W had anything to do with it.    I'd put some of those neodymium magnets in the pan before re-installing just in case.   Here is a link to some that are manufactured to withstand the extra heat: 
https://www.magnet4sale.com/n35uh-2x1x3-8-neodymium-rare-earth-oil-pan-magnet/
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH

I may have missed part of this what kept the lifters form turning ? Is it possible one them separated allowing lifter to turn and jam, Wasn't sure if it was a dog bone or lifters were tied together. 

Any debris would be from grinding the bottom of the lifter bore, so magnet won’t pick that up. I do have a magnetic drain plug that has some parts of the lifter stuck to it.

Oil pressure went up with thicker oil.
I did not find any debris or particles in the oil when I disassembled the oil pump. I ordered a new M83HV pump ( same as old one). Just because it is cheap insurance.

When I was researching distributor gears for my current build a lot of good sources say HV pumps put a lot of strain on the dist gear resulting in premature failure.

 

Every engine I ever built got a HV pump.  NEVER have seen any wear on gears.

I'm shocked!!!!!!!
MS of all people....using ANYTHING other than a standard volume oil pump!
EVERYTHING I've ever read or "heard" states SBF engines have excellent oiling systems and do not need HV or HP pumps.( I know I just use the std. pressure Mellings.) 
 At the very least....use a heavy duty distrib. shaft.
You do know Mellings has a "better" oil pump than their standard OE replacement oil pump?!
6s6

Don't forget that spinning the HV pump takes more power too. 

SBFs have a great oiling system, if anything it already moves too much oil.  A HV pump really just sucks the pan dry to fill the rocker boxes with oil.

HV pumps are a solution in search of a problem.  I've yet to use one in any engine build I've ever done across multiple makes and I've never had a problem with oiling.  If you're in a situation where you're having oiling issues in racing you are better to just go to a dry sump if class rules allow.  Once you get into heavy G-loading a wet sump system just isn't going to cut it.  There's all manner of trickery employed to try and get them to work, but its lipstick on a pig.  In those situations you need to oil precisely and get the oil off the rotating parts to prevent aeration.  Total overkill for a street engine and all but the most serious street/strip applications though.