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So long time ago some of you may recall a post I did about the headaches of getting the car painted matte. Cuttin' through the crap - car is still not painted. I'm a little concerned on the guys' capabilities to actually pull off a matte paint because of the condition of his booth. Real dirty, and I saw he does a lot of his sanding, bondo, and prep work in there because it has better light. So dust galore. and you can;t buff dust specs out of a matte paint.
Then I go to thinking - do I just have him lay down the 2k primer after the body work then have another place do a vinyl wrap?? So wanted to get some thoughts. I know the paint shops will tell me whatever they can to get me to stay and paint, the vinyl wrap companies will tell me whatever they can to get a job out of it. So some unbiased opinions.
Pluses:
- Better surface look, less imperfections during painting.
- Resilient to chipping and scratching. This is very appealing to me based on how easily my last paint job chipped and scratched (albeit it was a maaco-level job). Also recall, I may get a long, hilly, gravel driveway. Plus, just general road debris.
- I'm not looking to change up the color often, so don't much care about that aspect.
- Get a scratch, repair a panel, etc. It's probably cheaper and easier job (depending on where the ding occurs and how much gets replaced). Color match will at least be right.
Minuses
- It's vinyl.
- '67 mustang - so the job in the faux side intakes will not be great since they are so deep and narrow
- Probably will cost more than just having this guy shoot it with paint.... if he can pull it off.
Some q's:
- I personally haven't seen one close up (that I know of). Is it one of those situations where it looks just like paint at 10', but up close you can tell it's vinyl?
- Environmental protection. If he hits it with 2k primer, then vinyl gets on top of that, what's the story with ingress of absorption of water and such? IIRC regular ol' primers absorb water so they need to be sealed up with proper paint before too long. Is this true with 2k's or do they effectively seal up as good as paint? I suppose he could hit it real quick with a mid-level clear or something, but that's just more $$$.
- Will you guys kick me out if I have a sticker coating my car?
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WE don't really care what you coat your car with, but YOU might. WE just want you to DRIVE IT AND ENJOY IT.
Personally, I prefer paint for a more permanent solution.
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Why not paint it yourself. I mean if you're even considering having the guy with the filthy booth do it. Build yourself a temporary booth and do it. The first one I did was a 56 Chevy. Painted it 63 Impala metallic burgundy in my friends garage with rattle cans. We got a ton of compliments on that paint job. Wouldn't hurt to try.
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I checked once about getting my 66 wrapped. The fellow told me the base had to be as smooth as prepping for paint.
He said every little hump and bump would show.
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Its interesting, but I think you will not be happy with the end result. Bottom line is the paint job on your car is what you notice the most. Sub bottom line god paint work costs money, but its money you see every day.
IMO I would try and strike the best balance between quality and cost. In today's age you could still shoot it with single stage. Its not going to be are durable or hard as a two stage product, but it will be cheaper and easier to repair.
I would find a good shop that does quality work, but isn't exorbitant. Talk to the guys at the local auto paint shop and get some recommendations. Having the car shot in a real booth is going to make a difference. Sure, you can build a plastic booth, or even shoot it outside yourself on a calm day, but if it gets screwed up consider how much work its going to be to fix it. I'd advise doing all metal repair if you can. Then deliver the car stripped of trim, etc. and let the shop take it from there. Reassemble the car yourself to save more money. Don't be tempted to "prime" it yourself. Paint products all have to be compatible, and rattle can primer isn't catalyzed, so its soft. What's under the finish is as important as the finish. I've seen cars peel paint in sheets because the wrong primer was used. The shop isn't going to warranty that, and shouldn't as it wasn't their fault.
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I agree with TKO. I enjoy the complements on my paint job which was done in 2001. 2 coats PPG and 2 coats clear. Still looks good. Prep work was the key.
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Congratulations to the paint job turning out. Any chance of seeing some pics? I was gonna also mention that besides great prep work is key to a quality paint job! There are ways to obtaining a Matt or low sheen paint job while still being able to wet sand cut and buff the paint to a perfect finish.
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I like BillyC's idea of painting yourself. For what you pay someone else, you could buy all the equipment that you don't already have, and all the materials at least twice. JKORDZI has a write up in the paint & body section of this website, and there is a lot of experience here. Take advantage of it.
I genuinely thought that wraps were for tuners and Las Vegas promos, until I saw this cool little Falcon a couple summers ago. Built 302, T5, disc brakes. It caught my attention. Wrap was a couple years old, and not perfect, but way better than my 35 year old paint job.
Door jambs and trunk drip rails, etc. were not wrapped, so it looks way better with doors, trunk & hood closed.....
Online!
I wonder if the wrap would have issues going over a primer? I think yes, but I'd double check.
I like the guy's responses though, find another painter (you don't do that kind of cr@p in your booth!) or do it yourself. Heck if you don't like the paint when you're done THEN wrap it
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I really thought long and hard about painting my '89 GT myself. The equipment and materials are not that expensive. Here are the two hangups I have about it:
1.) Paint turns out best in a paint booth with proper exhaust and cleanliness. A pro grade paint booth is the one thing you aren't going to be able to buy cheap. You're going to have to build one, and likely a temporary one at that. What are you going to use for exhaust? Household box fans with heater filters? Yeah, it can be done, but the booth in which you paint does make a difference, especially if you are really detail oriented. I had nightmares about chasing trash in the paint, etc. essentially forever.
2.) What you can't buy cheap is experience and knowledge. Those things come from practice and working in the trade for years. I paint a lot of stuff with rattle cans, and get really good results. I shot parts with Imron through a paint gun years ago and also got really good results. BUT, there's a world of difference between turning out a good looking bracket and turning out a good looking car.
I decided that in the end, the $2000-$3,000 difference in cost between having it done and doing it myself would likely be the best money I ended up spending on the car. I will have so much time and no small measure of money in the car when I'm done that for the paint to not be perfect would drive me insane. I will have gone through the entire car when I'm done. Everything will have been removed, reconditioned, restored, or modified. Its not just a car; its a statement of who I am, how far I've come, and what I can do. My '67 was the first Mustang I did. The '89 will almost certainly be the last.
I'm not saying under no circumstance try to paint the car yourself. My opinion and advice is based on making sure that you are simply realistic about your abilities and expectations. Cost is a poor driving factor in decisions like this. Years ago I read an article about automotive project planning in one of the rags I was reading at the time. I was in a Chevy phase I think (yeah, yeah, I know, but here me out), so it was probably Super Chevy or something like that. The author was Mark Stielow, who built a string of very trick Pro Touring first gen Camaros during the late '90s and early '00s. My greatest take away was that being unhappy with a car that you wold have been happy with for a 10% cost overrun is the definition of false economy. A little more sacrifice somewhere else in your life or a little more short term debt is well worth the end result of a car that you may end up enjoying for the rest of your life. Approaching projects with this in mind ever since has made me much happier with the end results.
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I would be concerned with longevity. I have a feeling that a wrap may not last as long as paint. I have nothing to base that on but a vague recollection of hearing that they don't last much longer than 5 years or so. My paint job has been on for over 15 years and I can still see my face in it. It's never been polished either.
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A few years ago at a MCA show there was a Cobra replica done in a chrome overlay - - -absolutely freaking awesome!
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I just sprayed a satin black job today. A low budget job for a friend son's truck. I'm not a pro. But do a little DIY stuff. I think the flat and satin jobs are the hardest because you can't easily fix a mistake.
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Yeah, the DIY went out the door on this pretty quick. I have not had good luck myself in shooting things, and as others mentioned matte is hard to fix. Pretty much a re-do. Then there is the aspect that even when I paint with rattle cans in my garage, it smells all over the first floor. Even after putting plastic over the connecting door. Add in 2k, and no-beuno.
I quickly got off my 2 day brain fart on wraps. Did some further research and primary reasons were:
- No savings on prep as you all mentioned. Every little imperfections comes through.
- $ for $ on equivalent offerings, actually does not end up saving you $. Despite what wrappers claim. They usually accomplish this in the fuzziness of comparing these. A mid-level wrap is cheaper than an entry-level premium paint job. But does not look nearly the same (seams, delamination, rough cuts around features, wear on sharp edges, crappy cutting around protrusions, emblems, antennas, etc. I saw some naaaasty images.
- Longevity. They say "lasts 7 years with care, a paint job will list 5-7 with care." What the hell? how many of you repaint your car every 7 years?
- Longevity. About that 7-years.... most all vinyl mfgs. have a 5 or 7 or whatever year warranty. But then change that based on your location and the surface angle! For example, one well known supplier had a 0% multiplier on horizontal surfaces in California. As in - NO warranty!
- Back to cost. The closest same-same estimate I could do without too much effort put the cost for the vinyl applications was just about $1k under a very good "mask and spray" restoration-specialty shop I talked to (so not your Maaco level). How does that "savings" rack up if you have to pay a mask-and-spray level fee every 7 years? Mmmm-hm.
- As y'all also said - the paint job is probably the one cost that affects you daily perception and pride the most. An even ok-wrapper that gets a little bubble or delamination or peeled corner or edge will frost ya more than a sub-par paint job. So I'd almost venture to say that wrapping is more sensitive to the skill of the applicator than paint. So-so paint looks not great, but still ok. So-so wrap looks like crap.
F. That.
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A paint job lasts 7 years? Wow, what a total load of BS! My car was painted in '95. When clean it still looks great. Needs some minor chip repair and a buff now, but I've only ever waxed it once. Its also just single stage.
My wife's car still has great looking paint when its clean, and its an '02 that sits outside most days while she's at work. I'd like to say she's taken good care of it...
So it seems the wrap guys are the new snake oil salesmen. Based on that alone I'd boycott their product.
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All you guys seem to be comparing apples to oranges. You are comparing costs, visual quality and longevety between paint and vinyl wraps, when they are really meant for different uses. The vinyl wraps are primarily for graphics heavy applications like the Falcon shown above. Get an estimate for replicating that look on the Falcon in paint, plus how long it will take to do in paint.
Automotive paint is formulated to resist the elements. Even the very best stabilized vinyl will degrade in real sunshine. No surprises there.
The real target for the wrap guys is the enthusiast that likes to change the look of his vehicle frequently. The NASCAR guys are big customers, changing the entire car graphics package from week to week. Two guys with heat guns can take off an old wrap and put on a new one in two hours, plus the wraps stay on at 200mph.
A lot of you guys are proud of how good your 15 year old paint job looks, as you should. But there are guys like 6Sally6 that like to play with spray Plasi-Dip to make short term visual changes. That is why Plasti-Dip started making the spray.
I think that if you get stuck comparing vinyl wraps to paint you are missing the point of vinyl wraps.
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I agree that the vinyl has it's purpose. Mainly graphics work. Like the falcon and some cool looking ones I've seen with faux-carbon fiber. For color effects and multi-tone that would just be much more expensive in paint but a digital printer can crank it out no-problemo. As for use by someone who wants to frequently change colors (one color car)... I'm not so sure, personally. But I can see it argued either way.
Regardless, what I have been finding and hearing, which is what lead me down this rabbit hole, is that vinyl is being pushed more and more as a full-spectrum replacement for paint. Not a just special-case replacement. Not for me and my application, per above!
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A side note on prepping for a wrap. I was watching one of those car programs that manage to do things that we wouldn't do so we don't have to and ther's a gut with a heat gun warming up the clear coat AND HE'S PEELING IT OFF! IN A BIG SHEET! I couldn't believe it. I don't know what that says about the quality of factory paint.
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Obviously vinyl wrap is supposed to be used for graphics applications, but the OP's first post indicated he was looking for a cheaper alternative to painting the car. The conversation therefore flowed from the merits of wrap vs. paint as a solid color finish for the car. Certainly if you have graphics all over the car its going to be MUCH cheaper to wrap it than to have them painted on. The point of comparison though was trying to get apples to apples with wrap vs. paint using both as a single color finish for the car. I agree that they are not both apples, and thus the considerable disparity in both quality and cost, and the discussion which unfolded I think made that clear.
Its important to note the proper use of wrapping though, which is promotional/marketing using graphics heavy layouts. The ease of changing schemes is important for that use as well, as noted. The bottom line is that wrap is not paint, and the two really can't be directly compared, or used interchangeably.
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Just get $100 of hot rod black from Summit and paint the car. If you screw it up, redo it.
Buy a new compressor and dryer and spray gun while you are at it and you will still be money ahead of a wrap or having someone else do the paint.
Send the balance of the money to me if it is still burning a hole in your pocket. (Difference between home paint and body shop paint or wrap, I will be happy with either one)
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Ugh! Flat black Mustang?! Say it isn't so! I mean, if it were say a '50 Merc it would look great. On the hood and the taillight panel only, maybe you could pull it off on a Mustang (though it would have a decidedly Moparish feel). But the whole car?!
Well, make sure you jack up the rear end for a wonderful stinkbug stance, add some curb feelers, and fuzzy dice. As it turns out you don't even need a Delorean to go back in time...
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heres is a wrap for ya.2020 GT 500
Last edited by Rudi (4/13/2018 12:45 PM)
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I agree that the best use for vinyl is high-graphic jobs,
But that doesn't change that vinyl is now being heavily marketed for single color jobs. Which is how I came about it as a potential option, then the notion of chip resistance made me hesitate a bit.
Just look at these guys:
Places like that are turning out to be dime a dozen. It's an attractive business - very, very low cost in equipment overhead. No hazmat regs to follow. Takes some training and practice, but that's not that bad. And if you screw up a panel, well, it's a hella easier to pull a sticker off than to re-sand and re-prep an entire panel. And then the art of color matching and laying down metal flake or pearl....
And throw in on top of that, as I found out, repeat business. You product don't last that long, but as short as advertised in the fine print, and so a percentage will come back in to freshen it up or change it up on a regular basis. Not everyone, but it's still a much larger percentage than would come in every 3-5 years to repaint the same car.
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