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I found a step drill bit to be very useful when I was drilling the holes for the Shelby/Arning Drop.
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I just looked in my tool box and found a titanium one...it should be the same...thanx for reminding me..i totally forgot I had it lol
Michael H. wrote:
I found a step drill bit to be very useful when I was drilling the holes for the Shelby/Arning Drop.
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this pics shows you oem spring and global west s 23 are 520 lb .
after placed without aring drop with 205/ 70/ 14 and rolled the car this is the result on fender .
with 1 inch arning drop i think i will have no room for fender or very little.
after tested i thought that was better 620 lb ....but . your tires are low so i think will have hard touch .
i am very happy with koni shoks and global west springs , not too soft , not too hard but firm .
hope it help !
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Keep in mind that the Shelby/Arning drop lowers the UCA 1 inch, but that doesn't equal the fender being 1 inch closer to the tire. Usually it only drops the fender about 1/2 inch. The Shelby/Arning drop is about better handling, not lowering the front end.
Here's a picture of my '67 coupe with Shelby/Arning drop and GT front springs... no fender clearance problems.
Last edited by Michael H. (5/23/2018 3:31 PM)
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my car sits high.. the fender sits about 2 1/2" above the tire.... I think with the Shelby drop and the 1" drop 620 coils I should (fingers crossed) be ok... all the pictures and advice does help thanx
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that's not a bad stance... looks good
Alessandro wrote:
this pics shows you oem spring and global west s 23 are 520 lb .
after placed without aring drop with 205/ 70/ 14 and rolled the car this is the result on fender .![]()
with 1 inch arning drop i think i will have no room for fender or very little.
after tested i thought that was better 620 lb ....but . your tires are low so i think will have hard touch .
i am very happy with koni shoks and global west springs , not too soft , not too hard but firm .
hope it help !
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from what everyone has said the Shelby drop is the best way to go so im in!.. and that 1/2" will help as well ..I wish I could post pic of it but tinypic doesn't let me do it
Michael H. wrote:
Keep in mind that the Shelby/Arning drop lowers the UCA 1 inch, but that doesn't equal the fender being 1 inch closer to the tire. Usually it only drops the fender about 1/2 inch. The Shelby/Arning drop is about better handling, not lowering the front end.
Here's a picture of my '67 coupe with Shelby/Arning drop and GT front springs... no fender clearance problems.
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To all 65-66’s....67-70 too
Just like to see where mine sits by comparison.
Thanks
Pics would be cool too if possible.
What are fenderwell to ground measurements front and rear? (Just easier to measure)
Wheel specs?
Tire specs?
Last edited by Nos681 (3/30/2020 9:20 AM)
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All I can offer is that the 67 lost 1.5". on the same tires and wheels. Tire rub with 225/60R15 on top fender lip. Went down to 205 to be sure
Last edited by red351 (3/28/2020 2:30 PM)
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If you're going to be removing the springs and doing the Shelby Drop, then it's a good time to look at replacing those spring perches. Get some with bearings instead of rubber or poly bushings. I'm sure that there are those on this board who can offer their experiences with both the bushed or bearing perches. I did the drop and the spring perches and couldn't believe the difference in handling on my 68. If you do the drop, visit Daze's page and use the "performance alignment specs" and not the stock alignment specs.
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Oh yeah..........this stuff kinda 'snowballz' as you well know.
I installed the roller bearing perches (not the fish!) and it rides better/smoother along with the better handling of the Shelby drop.
One side benefit of the roller perches(not the fish!) is when you really 'hammer it' the front end rises quicker and you think you're doing a wheelie! (well sorta!...not the matress!) Do get good weight transfer.
6sally6
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Well... I feel stupid right about now! 18 months or so ago I replaced the coil springs and control arms. Wishing now that I got those holes drilled...
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Stevo;
I made a template after work one evening.
It may take a week or two at most...WYAIT MONSTER WILL GET YA.😁
I kick myself in the butt for waiting over 20 years to do it.
It definitely drives so much better.
Last edited by Nos681 (3/29/2020 8:17 AM)
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I did it on my 70 and had it aligned by a shop. They did it back to stock specs and I thought I was not impressed with the drop. In Michigan, MS commented on how my tires looked crooked so I checked them myself and realigned it my self. To get it close, the strut rods are at the end of their travel and the lower control arms are almost touching the inside of their mounting pocket. It drives a lot better now. Doing the specs to Dayz recommendation also raised the front end a little higher.
I can see all sort of new work on the front end snowballing. Because the LCA has been moved forward so drasticly a rod end bearing would work good there. And because the spec wasn't reached for caster a longer strud rod would be needed. Pretty soon your calling BB2 to sell his front suspension art work.
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Nos681 wrote:
Stevo;
I made a template after work one evening.
It may take a week or two at most...WYAIT MONSTER WILL GET YA.😁
I kick myself in the butt for waiting over 20 years to do it.
It definitely drives so much better.
Understood... but I should have done it when I had the springs and control arms out. What a dummy I was...
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Stevo wrote:
Nos681 wrote:
Stevo;
I made a template after work one evening.
It may take a week or two at most...WYAIT MONSTER WILL GET YA.😁
I kick myself in the butt for waiting over 20 years to do it.
It definitely drives so much better.Understood... but I should have done it when I had the springs and control arms out. What a dummy I was...
Well...guess ya could isolate yourself in the garage and git-r-done.😁
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