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1966 Mustang Coupe, 1988 5.0 HO Swap, T5z, MAF, EFI
So I'm rebuilding my front suspension. I have new shocks and springs on order. Planning on doing the shelby drop.
Need to save some cash. I inspected the upper and lower control arms and the rubber boot covers are torn so those will have to be replaced. Should I be able to reuse any of the existing parts? Assuming I cleaned them. I'm assuming I should be able to just replace the strut rod bushings. The center link looks ok.
Here's my shopping list so far...
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I rebuilt my front end when I was 17 (23 years ago now). I replaced the springs, shocks, and all bushings with a poly kit from somewhere (Mustangs Plus probably). I rebuilt the upper control arms (new bushings and spring perches), installed new lower control arms that already had bushings and ball joints in them, and reused the strut rods and hardware. That setup has been good enough for how I drive the car, and made a dramatic improvement in handling.
Over the years I replaced the idler arm, tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves (solid, not the stock style that are open and can flex), and last year installed a Borgeson PS setup & a larger front sway bar.
I would advise buying only quality parts. For balljoints, tie rods, etc. I would only buy MOOG. They are more expensive, but are quality parts with known metallurgy, unlike the off shore stuff commonly sold by the big parts houses in kit form.
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If I were spending your money, I would buy parts to rebuild my existing upper control arms instead of the new assembles, especially if they are original and in good shape. They made it this far and should last a while longer.
There is also a MS tip about modifying the cross shaft with a groove to let the grease go a little easier through it.
If the existing idler arm bolts, nuts, and washers are in good shape, they should be re-usable too. If you want all new hardware, check into a kit from AMK to see what is offered.
Check Rockauto for the Moog parts for the strut rods bushings and steering parts and make use of the 5% discount code that should be found in the For Sale section here on the site.
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Moog.... and you could rebuild your upper control arms.
The Moog strut rod bushings are hard to beat.
There are some good articles somewhere on blueprinting your upper control arms. Basically get a control arm shaft kit and a ball joint. Then put it together, making sure the ball joint is centered with the center of the shaft.... or you can purposefully set up a right and left UCA with the arm offset twards the rear of the car to help out with positive caster. Most folks would tack weld the nuts on the shaft once they were happy with the setup. That should save some money. If I was trying to get the most bang for my buck I would also just replace the joint in the lower control arm, and get one of the Opentracker Racing spherical joint kits to replace the inner bushing... if you plan on going for a performance allignment where you are going to pull the lower control arm forward a bunch to gain positive caster. Basically you can get Moog everything, a can of spray paint and reuse most of your components.
I am so squeamish around anything that says Scott Drake on it anymore.
Last edited by Bentworker (6/01/2018 4:46 PM)
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Bentworker wrote:
Moog.... and you could rebuild your upper control arms.
The Moog strut rod bushings are hard to beat.
There are some good articles somewhere on blueprinting your upper control arms. Basically get a control arm shaft kit and a ball joint. Then put it together, making sure the ball joint is centered with the center of the shaft.... or you can purposefully set up a right and left UCA with the arm offset twards the rear of the car to help out with positive camber. Most folks would tack weld the nuts on the shaft once they were happy with the setup. That should save some money. If I was trying to get the most bang for my buck I would also just replace the joint in the lower control arm, and get one of the Opentracker Racing spherical joint kits to replace the inner bushing... if you plan on going for a performance allignment where you are going to pull the lower control arm forward a bunch to gain positive camber. Basically you can get Moog everything, a can of spray paint and reuse most of your components.
I am so squeamish around anything that says Scott Drake on it anymore.
Positive caster, I think you meant, not camber. Moving the balljoint rearward would add positive caster. To effect camber you would have to move the balljoint inward (negative) or outward (positive). Likewise, moving the lower control arm forward also increase positive caster. Caster is the angle of spindle inclination as viewed from the side. Positive is a rearward tilt, negative is a forward tilt.
Camber is the angle of the wheel as viewed from the front of the car looking rearward. Tilting inward at the top is negative, outward is positive.
In a performance alignment you want positive caster, but negative camber.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Bentworker wrote:
Moog.... and you could rebuild your upper control arms.
The Moog strut rod bushings are hard to beat.
There are some good articles somewhere on blueprinting your upper control arms. Basically get a control arm shaft kit and a ball joint. Then put it together, making sure the ball joint is centered with the center of the shaft.... or you can purposefully set up a right and left UCA with the arm offset twards the rear of the car to help out with positive camber. Most folks would tack weld the nuts on the shaft once they were happy with the setup. That should save some money. If I was trying to get the most bang for my buck I would also just replace the joint in the lower control arm, and get one of the Opentracker Racing spherical joint kits to replace the inner bushing... if you plan on going for a performance allignment where you are going to pull the lower control arm forward a bunch to gain positive camber. Basically you can get Moog everything, a can of spray paint and reuse most of your components.
I am so squeamish around anything that says Scott Drake on it anymore.Positive caster, I think you meant, not camber. Moving the balljoint rearward would add positive caster. To effect camber you would have to move the balljoint inward (negative) or outward (positive). Likewise, moving the lower control arm forward also increase positive caster. Caster is the angle of spindle inclination as viewed from the side. Positive is a rearward tilt, negative is a forward tilt.
Camber is the angle of the wheel as viewed from the front of the car looking rearward. Tilting inward at the top is negative, outward is positive.
In a performance alignment you want positive caster, but negative camber.
Doh!
That is what I meant, I’ll correct it now
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Reuse strut rod bushings
Reuse spring perches
Reuse idler arm mount kit
REBUILD A arm
Nothing butt MOOG parts!!!
6sal6
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I recently rebuilt my whole front end (suspension and steering) and used Moog parts as the guys on here recommended. I never refurbished the upper control arms. I just went with Moog there also. I put the original Ford upper and lower control arms away though and will not throw these out. So far, I am very happy.
Scott Drake parts also have questions in my mind about quality...
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I'd think the Moog complete upper arms would be high quality, its really just a question of how much you want to spend/save. I checked the price on Rock Auto though, and the MOOG uppers are only like $61 each, and lack only the spring perch. For that price I'd be tempted to say my time is worth more than the couple bucks I'd save rebuilding the old ones. Especially since now I'd have to blast and paint them, and then would be greatly tempted to box or otherwise modify them...
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