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BB

I'm going to tell you that at stock ride height a 17x8" wheel with a 245/45R17 rubbed the front of my car.  I was able to carefully roll the aluminum wheel arch trim back flush to the the inside lip of the fender and carefully persuade the lower front of the fender outward at a slight angle, and go the rubbing to go away.  However, when I did the Shelby/Arning drop the rubbing returned and there was nothing I could do this time except run a smaller 245/40R17 tire, which clears just fine.  Its only 1" shorter, so 1/2" less at every possible point of contact, but I needed it.

On the rear you can run a wider wheel that a 17x8, though getting a 17x9 to fit can be dicey and require work.  If you don't care about rolling the wheel lips a 17x9 with 5.5" backspacing MIGHT work.  The other pinch point is the front inner wheelhouse to tire.  Again, this MIGHT clear a 17x9 with 5.5" backspacing depending on the tire.  A 265 should clear on the rear, and a 275 MIGHT clear.  The MIGHT part has to do with, like I said, production tolerance and previous repairs.  Always best to measure if you're trying to fill the wheel wells as much as possible.  What worked on my car may not work on yours and vice versa. 

A good wheel company will build you wheels with custom backspacing.  If the 5.5 doesn't work you could get wheels made with 5.75 or 6" to avoid the wheel lip if you have the clearance on the inboard side. 

Chart is wrong if it had someone install tires, based on the chart, that rubbed.

What width wheels and tires do you want to run? It seems everyone wants theirs to be the largest possible in order to get “the look”, but a tire that can rub is dangerous and the failure will only come at the most inopportune moment.  Through many years of experimenting with just about every possible configuration, I have determined that biggest is not best. Just changing tire brands, but keeping the same size tire, can result in huge differences in handling and fitment.